Looking for shingling help – continued
This is a carry-over from a previous post regarding wood-shingling the wall of a house, following the incline of the roof of an addition.
Either dawn has broken — or not.
Is the sole purpose of the starter course (generally) to insure no part of the sheathing/house wrap at the bottom of a wall is exposed to the elements?
And, generally, should the tail of an underlying shingle reach a bit up under the butt of the second row above it?
If the above are true, then I finally got the logic behind how to weave a double course on a wall following up an incline of an addition:
In the case of the incline, that double course does not necessarily have to be exactly 2 butts in thickness (made up of 1, or 2 tips). It just needs to be close to being in plane with the horizontal shingles, with limited bulging,with no exposure for the house wrap and no overlapping spaces (keyways ??) between layers of shingles.
Edited 4/19/2006 8:42 am ET by rfreiberg
Replies
After I got my magnifying glass out - it sounds like you've got it!
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
where does he find such tiny font...
I haven't a magnifying glass...
what did he say???Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I don't understand why my font comes out looking small on your screen. When I view it, it looks bigger than yours. I transfeered it from MS word, but I also enlarged it using this post's font size option. I'll edit it and enlarge it more. Or, perhaps the binoculars need to be turned around the other way.
thanks....
post directly here instead of copy and paste... that is almost bullet proof...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I teach sidewall shingle techniques. The undercourse at the bottom of a wall is typically applied 1/2" higher than the overcourse (exposed course) and any joints (keyways) are offset by 1 1/2" or more. The 1/2" overlap creates a drip edge so water doesn't roll around the butt edge and back to the wall flashing /foundation.
MG
Thanks for the response. That seems pretty straightforward for the first course of a horizontal run on the bottom of a wall. My problem was with the double course on the wall following an incline of an intersecting roof. I was running into a problem where each of the single-layer horizontal rows end with that double layer at the roof line.
By the way, do you know where I can get a good book on the application of shingle siding? Most of the ones I've seen just show the basics. I saw two articles in Fine Homebuilding that came close, except it really didn't show the weaving technique in detail, although they talked about it. I'm a visual person.
I'm a little lost in your description "I was running into a problem where each of the single-layer horizontal rows end with that double layer at the roof line." Are you applying an undercourse for every course?I think you're shingling a cheek wall (like the side of a dormer where the wall meets a roof). The way I do these is to cut a triangle piece of ply or OSB that matches the roof pitch. I make it about 4 ft at the leading edge (where the corner board would go). I tack shingles onto the board using hammer or squeeze staples about 1/4" from the top of the shingle. Tack them in straight course lines and let them trail off the board (so only the top feather of the shingle is on the board and the butt hangs off the 'hypotenuse'. I get all the joint offsets correct when applying. Then I carefully flip the board over and run a saw along the hypotenuse (the roof edge). I carry the board up on the roof and since the shingles are only tacked at the top, I can pull each one out of the field and fasten to the wall without loosing the layout.There are no good books I know of. I pitched FHB on letting me do a good article on cedar shingling but another editor started dating an author so he will be writing it. Not sure when it will appear in the magazine or how in depth it will be.I'm also not sure what you mean by 'weaving detail'.. Do you mean weaving outside and inside corners? If so, I can forward a handout I pass out to people who attend my demos at JLC Live and other shows.mg
Mike, maybe you should just do it anyway. ( write the article) And submit it for open competition. Everything well made sells sooner or later.
Good to see your posts !
Wish I had read this last year. Would have saved me a day of cycling up and down the ladder to the mitre saw.
"With every mistake we must surely be learning"
A garage roof connects perpendicular to the from of the house. Its peak is about 1 1/2 stories tall, and slants down to about 1 story to a porch roof - the house being 2 stories tall. I am going to shingle 2 - 3 three rows on the wall just above the porch roof and up the incline of the garage roof. The first row will be double along the horizontal and following up the incline. If I just double the incline as I do the horizontal, each of the horizontal rows above the first row, which are single layers, will intersect with the double layer that follows up the incline. This means, at the incline, I'll have a single layer butting up to a double layer.
It's hard from me to explain, but I hope this does it.
Do you have a digital camera you can take some pix with and post them or email them to me? That would help visualize because I'm just not getting it - it's not your description, just my inability to turn words into my 'minds eye'.[email protected] is my emailMG
pictures are so good! I totally don't understand your description either.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Tack them in straight course lines and let them trail off the board (so only the top feather of the shingle is on the board and the butt hangs off the 'hypotenuse'. I get all the joint offsets correct when applying. Then I carefully flip the board over and run a saw along the hypotenuse (the roof edge). I carry the board up on the roof and since the shingles are only tacked at the top, I can pull each one out of the field and fasten to the wall without loosing the layout.
Mike, That is a gem of a tip. I have three dormers to shingle and i can only imagine how many miter cuts and hours you just saved me.
THANK YOUTom
Douglasville, GA
I'm glad you understand the description. I should take photos and post sometime.You can do the same thing in reverse when working in a gable.
Don't forget to save the fall-off from either system to use on future jobs or on another spot on the same house (cheek wall fall offs fit on gable ends)MG
I have saved a bunch of off cuts form the gable end that I already did in anticipation of doing the dormers next. I had planned on making a template and doing them on the ground then carrying it all up (basically numbering everything) but I was planning on lots of cuts at the chopsaw.Tom
Douglasville, GA