I am getting ready to install a double 14″ x 14′-0″ long LVL header and a double 9 1/2″ x 8′-0″ LVL header. The 8′-0″ will tee into the 14′-0″ with a hanger bracket. My question is what is the prefered / approved method for attachment of the LVL at the bearing points ? Each end will bear on 3 studs, as required by the LVL design. Do I need some type of plate, or end nail into the LVL. With the tee configuration I don’t think there is concern with rotation once both are installed. Thanks.
Rob
Replies
Georgia Pacific has a great set of application notes...
http://www.gp.com/build/PageViewer.aspx?repository=bp&elementid=3928
HTH
PaulB
Thanks for the link, that is a good site. I looked at my design sheets again from Truss Joist and it indicated a rim board at one end. This is not possible due to the fact that I am framing within existing walls. I think once my ceiling joist are bearing full weight and toenailed I will not have a problem.
Rob
Do the ceiling joists layt on top of the lvl, or hang off the side?
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
I don't think you need to do anything special at the ends. Just nail it into place like you would any beam.
The top of the beam has to be kept from twisting. But normally the members framing into a beam do that.
If it sits on top of the plates and I can't nail through the rim (retro-fit) then I like to add diagonal blocking if possible... 2x cut at a 45 bevel, nailed into the side of the lvl and down into the top plate. I don't know if you can wrap your head around my weak description though.
If it is under the plate (with the joists on top) then I would add a king stud or two to your jack posts.
My 2nd floor ceiling joist will lay on top of the LVL's. Basically I am taking out two bearing walls, one 14'-0" and the other 8'-0" and replacing with LVL's to open up interior walls and part of exterior wall to a new addition. The top of the LVL's will be flush with ceiling. I will post a picture tomorrow. Rob
Maybe I missed something. If the joists sit on top of the lvl's, then you're going to need good blocking to kkep them from rolling over. From an earlier post: I think once my ceiling joist are bearing full weight and toenailed I will not have a problem. Once the joists are loaded, won't that make them more prone to rollong over if thry're not well blocked? Same for the lvl's.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Edited 7/26/2006 10:20 pm ET by FastEddie
The LVLs will be braced by the joists that are nailed into it. Good point about the joists, though.
The last time the French asked for more proof it came marching into Paris under a German flag. [David Letterman]
Here is the exterior of the addition and two interior shots showing the walls to be removed and replaced with the LVL's. The 14'-0" LVL replaces part interior and part exterior walls. The 8-0" replaces the window. Rob
If the studs are inline with the LVLs and roughly the same width, you can use simpson strongtie straps running up from the studs to the sides of the LVLs to secure the works from rollover in place of king studs or other more common bracing.
end nail into the LVL.
My understanding is that you should not nail into (between) the plys of a LVL, it will weaken it. I was told this after a carpenter sistered I-beams by nailing the LVL flanges together (the I-beams were toast as a result).