Dumb question but if I have to make an existing window opening smaller (narrower, shorter or both) I can just close it up a little without any change to the header right? There are some that are about a foot too wide so i wanted to fill in below the header. If i do this I should double the studs I insert so the trim has wood behind it right. If anything I figure the span of the header will be decreased.
Thanks
Richie
From building boxes and fitting face frames to installing doors and drawers, these techniques could be used for lots of cabinet projects.
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Replies
the only time the header span will be decreased is when you have a very path striaght down to the plate but usually header spans are pretty much adequate. As for filling in, there's no issues adn you're right on track thinking ahead about trim. If the siding isn't done, it's even easier.
You are generally correct but why do you want to make life gloomier than it already is?
More light and ventilation is always better other than for troglodytes
Wynton Marsalis makes the the distinction between Day People and Night People. Maybe that plays into it?
Fair enough
I'm with the other guy,unless there is some "other" reason, you can
ALWAYS, make the space darker. Blinds, curtains, shutters etc. etc.
You can't reclaim that natural light and or air.
You can. The existing header will continue to carry the load from above, so you need nothing structural at all among the pieces you put in for making the opening smaller. However, you will of course want good wood all around for nailing the trim like you said. For the wood above the window you can construct it like a header, but don't fill in with wood between the inner and outer pieces. For a structural header you would, but that increases the heat loss. Instead of the wood touching, space it apart with nothing, or with insulation.
Thanks all. The header was put in before final window sizes were chosen so it was made longer "just in case" to make sure the window and it's positioning would fit. As it turns out, it was a liitle longer than necessary. I did have a clear shot to the bottom plate so i put double 2x4s under it where I needed the opening to end (like I said for trim later) and then did the new sill. As far as the others, the architect had speced taller windows on the front wall of the house and that's how it was framed but i decided to match the front to the side so the sills would align in the new rooms so I had to raise the rough sills a bit. Just making sure what I did was ok. Still get a lot of light! Thanks again
Richie