I am going to build two- two-leaf doors. Each will be with a radiused top. I purchased the door stile and rail router bits for 13/4″ doors, from Freud.
I have no concerns about stile and rail construction, I have made cabinet doors before, but I am no sure what kind of joint to use to join the radius top with the edge stile on the butt side of the door.
I am thinking about either cutting a spline to reinforce the joint, or just use the stile and rail cutters to make the joint.
I could use some input.
Replies
I would do either an open M&T joint or a large lap joint. Use lots of glue throughout and clamp it well. Is it going to get painted?...if so then throw in some through dowels for good measure.
I hope I'm following your train of thought - you will conect your rail(the radiused piece) to the styles just as you would a strait rail.
Or were you thinking that you would make a 1/2 round top with one style basically continuing on around to the other side, eliminating the top rail?
If so then I'd join the two together with either a floating tennon or a spline because esentially you have a butt to butt joint and you'll need something substantial to hold the two together.
I can post a quick sketch if you need it.
Doug
Dave
I'm posting a drawing of what I meant.
View Image
If your doing the top one, the traditional stick and cope, you just cope your ends of the radiused piece - all you have to do is build a simple sled to hold the piece perpendicular to the cutters and presto, you have your cope joint.
If you chose the second method, which I think will be a much weaker joint then I'd do a little of what Jer mentioned, a tenon, floating if it were me or the half lap, which may be a bit difficult with the stick and cope cutters.
Doug
Edited 3/18/2007 8:27 pm ET by DougU
It is two doors making up the round top door, so each door is a half radius. Actually, it isn't a complete half circle, it is more of a radius top.
The longer side will be stick and cope, and I think I will use a floating tenon.
The material is verticle grain Doug Fir, matching the rest of the trim in the house.
I am still waiting for doors that I ordered from a major, well known door company, that has come in wrong two times. The initial order was placed in October. These doors were a change by the Architect, and I can't wait another 5 months to order these doors.
The bits work very well. I am using a Rouseau router table with a Milwaukee 3 1/4 hp router that is dedicated to that table.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Dave
about a year and a half ago I built a fairly large arch top wooden storm window-------------approx. 56" across.
Laminated the arch out of about 12 plys .
half lapped the arch to the 2 stiles.
worked well.
If I was building a door----with thicker stock than I used for the window------ I would possibly use a bridle joint instead.
I suspect maybe you are building a pair of doors that TOGETHER form the complete arch----making each individual door approx. a 1/4 circle???????
If so----and assuming paint grade work---I would probably do it the same way
BUT---then again---having already done it this way once------- I would be tempted to consider a floating tenon-------which might be pretty complicated considering the arch.
Actually---planning to build 5 more equally large( slightly larger actually) windows this fall-----but without the arch. will probably go ahead with a floating tenon system on those----------
good Luck,
Stephen
Dave,
IMHO, if I'm understanding correctly....... I'd go with DougU's first sketch and find a way to get a substantial tenon in there OR make a nice bridle joint --I just love to see those exposed tenons, maybe with a square peg or two or 3. It is a beautiful thing! At this thickness, they are likely exterior (is that true?) and are more than likely heavy, so overbuild and use epoxy. Leave the top edge square for glueup and shape afterward, gives you some clamping surface. Looks like a great project, let us know if this advice makes sense , keep us posted. What's the material?
Sorry I cant help with your question, but let me know how well the bits work. I was considering buying the set.
MSA1
I got a set of the bits as a trial/test and they work really well, I'd buy them if I hadnt received them as as gift!
Doug