Does anyone have any idea where I can find a manual, and/or parts diagram for a Quincy compressor model 210 ?
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I hear the internets has things like that. (G)
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"We strive for conversion,we get lost in conversation, and wallow in consternation. "
Me.
I done looked there for a few hours.Not even the Quincy website has anything.
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Then try that www thing.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"We strive for conversion,we get lost in conversation, and wallow in consternation. "Me.
Whadda you tink I'm doin here ?
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I dunno but we got 3 bumps outta it!Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"We strive for conversion,we get lost in conversation, and wallow in consternation. "Me.
Make that 4.;o)
Politics: the blind insulting the blind.
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Ya gotta git 'em from Quincy direkly.
You will also need the dash number or the record of change number, depending on how old it is. Quincy has most of the parts for these in stock whenever I need some. Those little 210s are pretty durable in climate control applications and simple to fix.
If you can't find their number, ping me off-line and I'll get it for you when I get to work on Monday. Their hours are M-F and I believe 8 to 5 central time.
Chris
I checked the Quincy site.They have info on their new stuff, but I couldn't find anything with reference to manuals or parts lists for the older stuff.The numbers on the tag...Model 210 Then there's a one.Next line down is 3714309.Size 2 1/2 x 2. (Two cylinders. Two and a half inch diameter cylinders.)
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Neat, a dash 1 means an old girl with a plain head. Easiest of all to work on. No hydraulic unloaders or anything of that sort to worry about. Parts are still available. You will need ALL of the numbers to get the correct parts.
Do you know what parts you need yet?
Chris
It'll be a while before I tackle the project.When I do, it would be nice to have a parts diagram, at the very least.A manual will tell what each component is, and how it should be working.It is rusted solid. The wheel doesn't move at all. It was half buried in moist dirt, and the rest of it was covered in wet leaves, when I found it.It will need a complete breakdown, before I even find out whether it is worth rebuilding, at all.I have a feeling though, that even rusted solid, if I can get it apart, I can rebuild it, and it would be worth it.These things are supposed to be very quiet. It has a cfm of 6.3.Two cylinders, 2 1/2" bore on each cylinder.It is pressure oiled. Not splash.It has an unloader that works at startup, and whenever the oil pressure drops.
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Some pictures.
In this one, I am assuming that I am seeing the air intake near the top. (The 3/4" pipe.)
And the oil filler plug, just above the plate that is bolted to the side.
I'm not sure what the plug with the slot for a screwdriver is, in the bottom right corner.
If it's an oil drain, why is there a 1/4" pipe, oil drain sticking out the side at the bottom on another side ?
This must be to adjust something ?
I won't know until I get it apart.
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Edited 6/21/2008 2:11 pm by Luka
Try electrolytic cleaning that sucker. I was amazed how well it works. Just need DC current, washing soda (borax) and tank with the borax and water.
You know, I just might try that. One piece at a time.I'm not tackling this anytime soon. Maybe a winter project.I hope I remember the electrolytic cleaning, when I do get started.Thinking that I'd have to somehow protect the insides of the cylinders from the electrolytic process, to prevent buildup in there.
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I have heard that whole entire engines have been cleaned that were rusted up solid. No rust will form inside the engine as long as current keeps flowing (in the right polarity). The only problem comes when the sacrificial electrode shorts out. This can happen when the rust builds up enough to make a solid path. I've heard that using a headlamp to limit current will provide a visual indication of a short and prevent damage from excessive current.I've tried it and it really works well.
In this one, I think the unloader, is the copper pipe coiled at the top. Connected to both cylinders up there, and to the unloader/whatever/thingamajig to the lower right.
The big round thing must be the oil pump. And the small, cap looking thing on top of it is actually a pressure guage. That is one thing I will likely have to replace. As well as the 'unloader assembly' that the copper pipe is attached to, at the bottom.
That 1/8" pipe that drains the oil, that I mentioned earler... Is at the bottom of this side.
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Here is the data plate.
Surprisingly readable.
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On this side, the air feed that goes to the tank, is obvious.
I have no idea what the small square plate bolted near the bottom, is.
The unloader thing is on the left.
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By the way... while I intend to use this as a compressor, if I can get it working, and can find a motor that will run it... I would tackle the project even if that were not the case.
Because I like the challenge. And, I guess, because I am one of those nutjobs who gets a kick out of restoring something like this.
Nice heavy wheel, for all that flywheel effect.
I also like the way it is bolted on.
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This compressor must only be run in the counterclockwise direction. Because of the oil pump. Later models had a reversible oil pump.
My info comes from this page. http://www.mesaequipment.com/Html/Products/Quincy/qr25_basic.html
Final pic.
This is the top.
The intake valves are under the near lugs, and the exhast valves are under the far lugs.
The unloader is connected through the exhast lugs.
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You are correct in the air intake assumption and the oil filler plug.
The plug with the screwdriver slot in it is for oil pressure adjustment. It is actually a nut to lock down the screwdriver adjustment. Most but not all of these run on 18 psi oil pressure.
The copper tubing that goes from the oil pump to the unloaders on the heads also goes to the reciever (tank). It works by using air pressure in the tank to unload the cylynders until the oil pump has developed sufficient pressure to cut off the air supply to the unloaders allowing the pump to run at full capacity.
Like I said before, these are pretty simple and easy to fix. Good find.
Chris
Good info !Thank you."The copper tubing that goes from the oil pump to the unloaders on the heads also goes to the reciever (tank)."How does that go ?The current connections are obvious. But -how- does it go, on, to the tank ? Is one of the nubs on that 'tee' that comes out of the oil pump, a place where tubing is connected, and then run to the tank ? And what is the other nub ?
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Sorry about not being clear, the tubing goes from the oil pump, (actually it is a pressure switch on the oil pump) on to the tank. The oil pump actually monitors its own pressure so that the compressor runs unloaded until everything is lubed as self-preservation. One of the reasons that they run so long.
On a rise in oil pressure the oil pressure switch actually shuts off the air pressure coming from the tank to to the unloaders allowing the discharge valves to do their job which allows the pump to load up.
What does the other "nub" look like and where is it located? Quincy uses 1/4" compression fittings from the factory but it could have been changed in the field.
Chris
Ok, I just had another look at it.
Also cleaned some parts off better, now that it is dry, and took some more pics.
When I said nubs, I was going by what I could make out in the pics.
The fitting is obviously a 1/4" compression fitting. That goes downward, to the tank.
The opposite side looks like a popoff valve. You have any idea if that is what it is ?
Here is the valve assembly, close up.
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Next pic for today.
This is on the opposite side of the body, from the oil filler plug.
In the same place.
But it has holes drilled in it.
Any idea what this is ?
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Last pic for now.
What is that large lug at the bottom ? (Red arrow.)
Looks like a drain plug, but that pipe is the drain, no ?
Also, what is the purpose of all the small holes ? (Red circles.)
The black circle is a closeup of the end of that extension of the housing, on the right. There is a small hole drilled in the end of that, as well. (Again, red circles.)
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Those small holes with red circle may be for roll pins, used for aligning the parts at assembly.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"We strive for conversion,we get lost in conversation, and wallow in consternation. "Me.
Makes sense.Guess I'l find out, when I actually get to the rebuild.
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I'll see if I can' find mine
Very cool !!I hope you have a scanner.=0)
Politics: the blind insulting the blind.
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