Horrible horrors installing deck balustrade of Crosstimber composite. Regardless of predrilling/countersinking, screws either cam out, break, or strip. In the event that the screw makes it all the way in, drawing it up ever so slightly too much will cause the material to explode. Not with a bang, though; with a whimper.
Best found method so far:
1. Clamp baluster in place with Visegrip C-clamps.
2. Pilot drill for full depth of screw.
3. Countersink.
4. Screw.
5. Try another screw. Repeat until successful, then return to step 1.
Now you’re rocking! I tried 2 1/2″ Deckmates, but settled on 2 1/2″ Trapeaz screws instead as they seemed to fight less. Temperature in the mid seventies, so that’s no excuse.
By the way, this stuff fries up all edged tools. Stock up a LOT of pilot bits and countersinks.
Anyway, any advice is extemely welcome, but otherwise let this be a warning.
Replies
You might give these composite decking trim head screws a try:
http://www.grkfasteners.com/en/RT_0_information.htm
I would still use clamps, pilots, and countersink. The GRK composite trimheads hold well and are less likely to cause splitting.
I make the countersinks for them with a Irwin Unibit (just up a couple of steps).
I would use a tapered bit with counterbore.
These bits drill great and with a tapered hole the screw bites the material the whole length without deforming the stock.
ANDYSZ2
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REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST
Drill Bit/Countersink/Counterbore Units
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These combination units are specifically designed for woodworkers. The high-speed tapered drill bits are precisely ground on a CNC grinder and match the shapes of wood screws so that screw threads grip for the entire length of the screw. Our countersink/counterbore units (unlike most others) are hardened; they are also sharpened after hardening. Used in combination with a stop collar, they let you set the unit for a wide range of screw lengths for everything from flush countersinking to a full 1/2" of counterbore.
The drills are multi-purpose and will serve the needs of most woodworkers for both hard and soft woods. 2-3/4" to 4" long overall. For softwood, you should always use a drill one size smaller than the screw calls for.
Components can be purchased individually, or in complete units for a specific screw size – the unit includes a countersink/counterbore, drill, stop collar, and a hex key.
Also available in box sets.
The set of five (for screw sizes 5, 6, 7, 8, and 10) contains five countersink/counterbores, five taper-point bits, two stop collars ( 3/8" and 1/2"), and two hex keys.
The set of all eight adds the drills and counterbores for screw sizes 9, 12, and 14.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32309&cat=1,180,42240
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