About Mambrane Roofs: Have a 1 in 12 pitch roof over an unheated 10×20 screened porch. Assuming I get two days in the high 30’s I was going to put a torch applied membrane roof and tuck it up under adjoining cedar shingle siding and use step flashing over the membrane. I didn’t want to use rolled roofing over tar paper because it has no guarantee. I could use rolled roofing over ice and water shield I suppose. My questions are: If you only torch the seams, what holds the material down between seams? Is there a membrane product that can be “torched” with some sort of hot air “gun?”. The owner is nervous about me using a torch… a local house burned down using a torch…any suggestions? Thanks alot.
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You would be wasting your time and money to only torch the seams. To make the product work, you have to get it all above 300° or so.
That said, there is no way I would want to be doing torch down near cedar shingles! Whose idea was this anyway?
There are products that apply like ice and water with a peel'n' stick surfacing that look like rool roofing with the mineral surface. Easy to apply and totally appropriate for this application. If it is cold, a heat gun will warm it just enough...with no flame or danger.
The brand sold around here is called Polyglas but there are several.
It is also reinforced with a woven membrane interior for high strength
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Hey thanks. Is a heat gun like a big hair dryer... hand held? Can I rent one. also... where is your area? I'm in western mass. The roof is currently tongue and groove pine which i assume i have to put 1/2 inch ply over. then I get the Polyglass warm, inside, and heat up the area to receive the next rool of Polyglass with the heat gun and stick it down as if it were Ice and Water Shield. is that right? Thanks.
Poet,
Certainteed and Polyglass both make a self adhering modified bitumen product----which you can also apply over a self adhering base sheet.
Problem is that your expected temps are going to be to cold for the material to seal effectively-------- 30's too cold.
I have used it in the mid to upper 40's and it was really tough to get an effective seal that day----- but as it was early april i new it would seal down in a matter of days
I wouldn't use that material at this time of year----- I have a heat gun---but you can't do a whole roll---let alone a whole roof with a heat gun
Instead---- If I couldn't wait untill spring----I would use seamless rubber----and instead of my regular latex adhesive I would use the old contact cement which works ok in colder temps( though slowly)
Stephen
Instead---- If I couldn't wait untill spring----I would use seamless rubber----and instead of my regular latex adhesive I would use the old contact cement which works ok in colder temps( though slowly)
What about somthing to google Steven?
Ever thought about doing an article?
Tim
http://www.mulehide.com/products1.htmlhere's what I use.Birth, school, work, death.....................
http://grantlogan.net/
thank you
Grant---that's one of the brands I use------ but that stuff ( latex) is really hard to get to work well in colder temps
March through oct./november though that latex is about all I will use for epdm------sooooooooooo forgiving.
Stephen
Yeah, the latex glue is a lot easier to work with, period. We've got a couple of small jobs I'm hoping to get a 50 degree day to do.Birth, school, work, death.....................
http://grantlogan.net/
Hey, I want to thank you guy. This doesn't sound that easy and it sounds like the products are not available locally but I'm going to check the websites. Doesn't exactly sound like run into the local lumberyard and get it off the shelf. And the temps are only in the low thieties for the next few days. Anyway, I appreciate it and I'll check the websites. Thanks
It's really not that complicated if the roof is not complicated. I'd be leery of any type of flat roof membrane you can buy at the big boxes. Go to a roofing supplier. I would shy away from torch grade membranes. Some peel and stick products ( I don't use them ) might be available for cold weather installation. Good Luck.Birth, school, work, death.....................
http://grantlogan.net/
Just had one done. The entire roof is covered w/ a 60# underlayment - stapeled, and nailed every 8-10" (w/nail that have washers). The entire roof membrane is torched down to the underlayment, not just the seams.
As for fire, be VERY CAREFUL. Around here you HAVE to pull a permit for a torch down roof, and they require that you have a rep from the local fire co present.
Don't torch.
Here is a product I have been using for years in commercial and residential applications, it is a cold process- meaning it is adhered with a film of tar applied over a membrane, no fire danger.
http://www.tamko.com/OurKeyBrands/AWAPLANLandingPage
"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
Edited 12/19/2005 11:20 am by Heck
http://www.tamko.com/ProductDisplayTest/tabid/129/ControlType/productDisplay/itemid/1295/Default.aspx"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
I read the data on that material.
Is that a two layer material or to say it requires a base sheet ?
The product information says the overlaps need to be heated with a torch. You dont ?
Tim
Tim, Tamko makes a variety of products, perhaps I didn't reference the correct one. The one I have used is a completely cold tar adhered system.
It is meant to be used with their proprietary membrane over new sheathing.
It can be applied without the membrane over other asphalt type roofing materials.
"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
thanks to everyone...the roof is on hold till spring but then I'll look into Tamko and other non torching materials. Thanks again.
Tamko is an excellent product as well as products by Bakor (the Blueskin people)"http://www.bakor.com" as well as RGM Products (Ridglas) "http://www.rgmproducts.com". I have sold and used all 3 with excellent results but follow the installation instructions carefully especially in regard to temperature. All the companies that have been mentioned make products for both Retail (Big Box) and Wholesale Distributors usually under slightly different labels. However, I would think most Distributors would be more knowledgable... but not always. I would talk to the roofer you use locally and get a reference.