I am in the middle of sheeting a metal frame roof. It is 5/8 t&g on 12 ga. rafters held down with #8 self drilling sheet metal screws. I was told by industrial bolt where I bought the screws that they would have no problem driving into the 12 ga. rafters. To the contrary we have been having to pre drill every hole because the screw were either breaking off at the tips or dulling – in either case they are not driving them selves in. I was told by the supplier that hardened steel screws are special order and that I would not need them. This is my first time sheeting a metal frame roof. Any suggestions? This job is a complete loss.
Thanks
Replies
1st step is to get another supplier and get rid of those poorly made scews...
WTB they are imports...
the TEK point to thread transistion is the problem...
use a at least A #4 TEK point or a 5 if you can get them...
you may have a #2 or 3....
also look for a #10 0r12 screw in a fine thread and not a coares thread...
something like this...
http://www.selfdrillers.com/vs4500.asp
this one is a better choice..
http://www.selfdrillers.com/buildex.asp
on a side note hold the drive speed down to the point that will get the job done and over speeding...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
see these people for some real help...
http://www.fasteners-wholesales.com
or email Bryon at...
[email protected]
or call...
719-473-5054....
FWIW this guy can find the unusual in fasteners...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Somethings not right. I am building a small bank building, and we are scrwing 3/4 ply sheathing to 16 ga studs without predrilling. And no broken screws.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
12ga vs 16ga?
Oops. I read 12, but either my mins processed that as 22 or the other half of my mind though buigger numbr was heavier. Whatever. hey, 16 ga studs are still pretty stout."Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Thanks for the resources and tips. We have tried low speed drilling and even #10 screws. Maybe the low quality (screw) is due to the fact that the engineer spec'd flatheads to prevent any damage to the membrane. Ill give these suppliers a call.
I wouldn't know the difference if you showed them to me. Never done any steel stud work.
Low RPM's and a lot of pressure. You can feel the screw cutting the metal. If that's what you're doing then the screws could be inferior. What kind of tool are you using?
John
A #8 sounds light for 12 gauge.
Edited 3/9/2008 7:43 pm ET by JohnCujie
we are using a dewalt low rpm drill ( I forget the model number) similiar to a hole shooter to pre drill and either a smaller dewalt drill or panasonic 15.4 to drive. If we drive the screws without predrilling -even at lower speeds they will strip outthe drill point will break off or rarely they will drive themselves in. I'm sure there are better screws out there.
By the way... #8 is definately light for this but thats what they called for.
I work with steel studs daily. You should be using a #10 plywood screw for 12 ga. (it should have little wings on the tip)and it will be a bitch to screw no matter what. The tip gets to hot going through the wood and is almost useless by the time it hits the steel. Two screws per hole is not unusual. Even a seasoned crew would be unhappy when they walked up and saw the 12 guage rafters.
Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
get away from the offshore #### and you'll live better and work less...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
SELFDRILLERS.COM is brought to you by DB Building Fasteners, Inc. DB specializes in domestic and imported self drilling fasteners
How do you know which is which?
The company pretty much uses Grabber's products, because of the volume they get them too cheap to pass up. Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
says so on the box....
also you can spec that you won't accept imported...
get a hold of Bryon at Lightning Bolt and tell him what you want....
you get what you pay for... cheap has upped the labpr and frustration...
so cheap has cost ya more in the long run....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
So true. Our office is always changing materials/ manufacturers etc. in an effort to cut costs. Sometimes it is better to go with the tried and true.
We hardly run into anything thicker than 16 guage studs these days because everything is value engineered to the thinnest acceptable material. We are framing highrise exteriors with 20 guage studs these days, only headers and kingstuds are heavier guage. Roof trusses are usually 20 guage high tenstile also.
I imagine the original poster was screwing off the plywood with #8 galvanized drywall screws, not an enjoyable task in 12 gauge steel. I feel his pain. Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
Thanks Mike,
Next time-if there is one- Ill be able to put this knowledge to use. RIght now its a race to get done and get out. Building a phase of someones house for free SUCKS.
OK, I can't believe I of all effin people am suggesting this but...
Have you considered using nails instead?
I took the attached picture at a JLC live show two years ago, at a demonstration of a high pressure compressor/nail gun system. MAX was in the name somewhere, I think. That image is disturbing as heck for a number of reasons not related to fine homebuilding, but it easily demonstrates how to attach conventional wood framing to metal. That is either 1/4" or 3/16" steel those nails are going through. Even more telling, the nail that missed the steel tube (on the right) that only went slightly deeper than the nails that pierced the steel tube.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.
great pic!
I would consider that for next time, Im just about out of this one- without a dollar to show for it! Those are serious nails! There is a steel Ibeam, hip on this one and the metal framers shot the plywood down to it with a Hilti gun and some nails that look like the ones in the picture. Were the nails in the pic fastened with a similiar tool?
These nails were not shot with a powder charge, they were shot by air pressure alone. I think the compressor generated about 300 PSI. These nails were shot out a normal looking framing gun.
http://www.toolbarn.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi?q=max+air+guns
This might be the brand.
The 400 PSI system easily replaces your powder actuated nailing guns and can easily drive 2" fasteners into concrete and solid steel
The picture is of 2x4's attached to the steel tube. They were not coming out at all.
Maybe next time.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
If your hair looks funny, it's because God likes to scratch his nuts. You nut, you.