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metal stud framming door instal

ManuelLabor79 | Posted in Construction Techniques on November 25, 2008 08:07am

whats the best way to hang an interior door to metal stud framming, fasten it?

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Replies

  1. User avater
    Sphere | Nov 25, 2008 08:11pm | #1

    Infill the stud with wood, and nail as usual.

    Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

    Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations

     

    They kill Prophets, for Profits.

     

     

  2. calvin | Nov 25, 2008 08:48pm | #2

    worst case scenario if the opening is already made up with the metal studs and you can't add the 2x4 inframe w/o screwing up the opening.

    Screw blocks of the proper thickness to the studs (inside the opening) in places you want to fasten the jamb.  Use a nail gun to fasten to the blocks.

    Bring the opening in to just short of that needed for jamb, plumb the blocks while installing.

     

    A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

    Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

    http://www.quittintime.com/

     

    1. VMackey | Nov 26, 2008 01:42am | #7

      On walls that are framed all steel and already drywalled, and for some reason no one in charge wants to do it right and let you cut / patch the drywall to install blocks, I've found than a nice sharp blow from a framing hammer will knock the offending steel back into the wall and out of the way so a nice stick of 2x can be fit in and screwed down tight.

      If you can find the original screws in the steel stud / track you don't have to swing that framing hammer as hard. But swing hard enough and hidden screws aren't a problem. I'm found letting the secretary who's desk is closest to said doorway ahead of time helps make the rest of the day go smoother. Vic

      1. calvin | Nov 26, 2008 01:57am | #8

        I see, done punch work on commercial have we?

         A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

        Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

        http://www.quittintime.com/

         

        1. AitchKay | Nov 26, 2008 03:06am | #9

          Right. Why do you think they call it punch work!AitchKay

          1. calvin | Nov 26, 2008 03:41am | #10

            When we had the finish contracts on commercial projects we often pushed for the blocking contract as well (when they were offered separate and not part of the framing package) so we wouldn't have that there punch out list.

            We got in on the finishes with one GC (huge firm) and they knew our eagerness to work period.  If we got one bid-almost guarantee we'd get the other, on reputation alone.  Nothing worse than tearing walls open when you can't find the blocks for those bath partitions.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

            Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

            http://www.quittintime.com/

             

          2. AitchKay | Nov 26, 2008 05:46am | #11

            You got that right!I know some contractors would completely sheath a commercial bathroom with 3/4" ply to avoid problems with missing blocking. And then, years later, when the toilet-stall partitions got relocated, possibly for ADA reasons, that original contractor would end up looking like a million bucks!The lesson is, know as much as possible about the trades that will follow, and then go the extra mile. As in your experience, smart contractors will figure out when they've got a sub who will make sure that future problems don't come up. In the long run, you'll be rewarded for that.Aitchkay

          3. calvin | Nov 26, 2008 06:05am | #12

            It certainly didn't hurt that they had been screwed in the past, sometimes even when done in house.

            Oddly, we never abused the open door in the bidding process.

            So much said for good business practices.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

            Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

            http://www.quittintime.com/

             

  3. FastEddie | Nov 25, 2008 09:26pm | #3

    Ditto sphere.  You might have to use treated wood depending on code, and you will have to either chamfer two of the corners or rip 1/8" off the width to get the wood stud to fit inside the curled flanged of the metal stud.

    "Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

    "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

    1. calvin | Nov 25, 2008 11:39pm | #4

      Usually ed, we'll orient the studs at the door opening flat side in.  Screw through the channel side into the wood member.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

      Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

      http://www.quittintime.com/

       

      1. FastEddie | Nov 26, 2008 12:00am | #5

        Ok, but if you are going to place the wood stud into the cavity of the metal stud, it needs to be trimmed to fit."Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

        "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

        1. User avater
          CapnMac | Nov 26, 2008 12:09am | #6

          going to place the wood stud into the cavity of the metal stud, it needs to be trimmed to fit

          A person can reverse the framing points out and remove the stud so the PTD 2x can be slipped inside.  That person has to have a good hand reinstalling the points as they will strip out in an eyeblink, though.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)

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