If you’re building a house for yourself, what codes would you spend extra to exceed?
Here are a few ideas to start off with. Stiffer floors is one area that spending more makes a noticeable improvement to how the floor feels. However, I’m not sure I’d notice the improvement in a larger footing or would you? Using nothing smaller than 12 gauge wire.
Replies
In many parts of the country well-thought-out improvements in insulation are well worth it. And it's worth pricing out a ground source heat pump to see if the numbers work for your situation.
As you say, having stiffer floors is kinda nice, though less important since vinyl (in the form of records) has gone the way of the dinosaur.
More emphasis on a durable exterior is probably appropriate. Not so much vinyl siding (that isn't all that durable), but rather materials like fiber-cement that can be expected to last 50 years or longer. Look at steel or cement fiber roofing.
More emphasis is needed on livable design. The Susanka "Not So Big House" approach is well worth considering. More comfortable spaces, fewer "great rooms". More space in entry ways and mudrooms, less in the master bath.
Also, more homes being built by 40-50-something folks should be planned to be modestly wheelchair accessible (though not necessarily ADA compliant), at least on the main floor. (Some sort of standard is needed for this.) It's not a matter of making the home hospital-like, but simply making entries closer to ground level, hallways a bit wider, bathroom doors a bit wider, etc.
what codes would you spend extra to exceed?
Dade county building code. that dade county fla.
We use the IRC 2003 with amendments for Indiana.
Insulation
solar orientation
passive solar
Pex water piping with home runs for everything
Floor
architectural grade hardware
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"After the laws of Physics, everything else is opinion"
-Neil deGrasse Tyson
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If Pasta and Antipasta meet is it the end of the Universe???
"Using nothing smaller than 12 gauge wire. "
That makes it kind of hard to hook up the door bell button.
Running minimum of #12 is a waste of copper and time. One 15 amp lighting circuit could run 7 fan/light combos or 30, 60 watt cans. And it is not that unusual to have 3-way and 4-way switches control lights. Much easier, and cheaper, to pull 14-3 rather than 12-3.
The whole question has thing a$$backwards.
Design a house that is fucntional and then check with the code. Not vice versa.
For example you might end up with a house that has a front door, back door, side door off the garage, and door off the MBR for a small private patio.
Now code only requires one, so whould you want to design the house to code and then look and see where you might want to add more doors.
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Great points, I think that's why he asked.
Still trying to come up with my answer - everytime I thought that I had one, common sence stepped in.
Best general responce is my normal MO - think ahead, then, think ahead some more. Run chases and redundancy everywhere that it will be hard to do it later. Never build myself into a tearout to accomplish a simple future task.Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City
That's an interesting question. After all, who doesn't want "the best?" You're also showing a tradesmans' bias for function, over trendy fashions.
Electricians always seem to favor larger wire and better quality devices.
HVAC guys swear by rigid metal duct - no flex for them!
Plumbers love copper supply and cast iron drains.
Roofers seem to love standing seam metal, and real metal gutters.
Carpenters want every stud at least a 2x6, and every door at least 30".
Paving guys love concrete drives.
EVERYONE loves easily accessible attics and crawl spaces, with plenty of light.
I'm going to pick you apart here on these. Nothing personal."Electricians always seem to favor larger wire and better quality devices."
the ones I know do like quality devices, but pulling wire any heavier than needed is a rediculous waste of time and money. Just hooking up lights ona 12ga wire is made harder and slower, but gains nothing in terms of safety. i'm pretty sure I've even heard a conversation about 12 in place of 14 when un-needed is not good in some cases."HVAC guys swear by rigid metal duct - no flex for them!"
True dat!"Plumbers love copper supply and cast iron drains."
this makes me wonder if you are being a bit facetious or sarcastic for humour! PEX is so much better than copper that the plumbers here have come to love it and use it whenever possible. And ABS is so much easier to work with that unless sound is a concern, that is the way the turd herders all channel their energy."Roofers seem to love standing seam metal, and real metal gutters."
There are a lot of fine roofers who have never even been on a standing metal roof, and who hate any kind of gutters. The thing they appreciate is a well thought out plan that does not puddle water or lock up ice, or place a chimney in a valley. Other than that, they can do fine work with any of the other styles of materials. "Carpenters want every stud at least a 2x6, and every door at least 30".
I dislike 2x6 framing and want doors at least 2'8" for accessability.
There are ways to build houses more energy efficient with 2x4 construction than with 2x6 thermal bridges. if I were to comment on framing choices, it would be roof framed with solid lumber @ 16" oc and 5/8" sheathing. I would also definitely spec out advantec for all sheathing in the frame, and a rainscreen weather wall."EVERYONE loves easily accessible attics and crawl spaces, with plenty of light."
That IS NICE, isn't it?
I have worked in a few hell-holes. But the one I am in right now has a good 4' crawl in most of it, with CLEAN heavy black plastic and a light every 12'!I have a hard time answering the OP Q directly because for most of my life, I have built in places where no codes exist or get enforced, but where I do have knowledge of codes, I have always exceeded them. I design according to what is needed for the occupants and the locality. I think insulation is one place to focus on exceeding requirements.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Pick me apart? No worries!
In this case, I was simply relaying the comments I've heard, chanted like a mantra, by various parties. I have also noted that 'what they prefer' was very often quite different from what they were actually doing at the time.
Electricians do seem to 'start' with #12; the one exception being the smoke alarm circuit. I think that is so they can distinguish the light boxes from the detector boxes at the finish.
Plumbers do seem to like working with PEX, but there are too many memories of PB for them to have completely accepted it. It's also possible that the bias in favor of cast iron drains is based, in part, on belief that CI can only be installed by a competent pro, while ABS is more of a 'you can do it, we can help' thing. To be fair, I've yet to see an ABS line dissolved by drain cleaner, or rust through.
Likewise, plumbers seem to regard the use of CSST - that yellow covered flrxible gas line stuff - as the sign of a less-skilled installation (except, perhaps, for the final 'whip.') CSST sure looks simple, there are far fewer joins to leak, and it's easy to dodge around obstructions ... but there is still a bias for 'real pipe.'
Truth be told, roofers probably hate every sort of roof penetration or accessory (like gutters). If it were up to them all roofs would probably also have access stairs and an attached pallet hoist! I can't say I fault them, either! While I, personally, happen to like ordinary asphalt shingles ... metal seems to get the nod for its' ease of installation and long life.
Remember Vietnam? When the 'hard hats' confronted the 'hippies?' It was assumed by the press -union election endorsements notwithstanding- that construction workers were, by nature, more 'conservative.' Well, maybe we are a bit less willing to embrace every new fad. New materials aren't likely to become fully accepted until they've been around a lifetime or two.
Heaven knows, we've all seen our share of code-compliant innovations that turned into nightmares. Among these flops were:
-Aluminum wiring;
-Polybutylene plumbing;
-Masonite for bathrooms;
-Urea-formaldehyde foam insulation; and,
-Stapling of shingles.
That's a difficult question to answer on a global basis, as there are idiot-syncricies (pun intended) in almost every part of every building code I have ever seen. (A single example would be the section of the NBCC which allows 3/8" Beaver Barf roof sheathing over 24" OC framing in high snow-load zones. Duh.)
I routinely ignore/improve code provisions that I know from experience are insufficient to produce a quality, long-lasting job; I suspect most custom builders or re-modelers do the same. Code-minimum is for 7-year tract-house builders.
Mostly I do things like beef up framing or sheathing specs; upgrade code-spec'd materials to more durable choices (plywood instead of waferboard; solid 2x framing instead of 'engineered' members made outta chips and glue), but I'll also add outlets, lighting, and circuits beyond the minimum required by code and run type L copper where type M would be accepted.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
foolish men call Justice....
If you're building a house for yourself, what codes would you spend extra to exceed?
Foundation dampproofing...
like to up size joist material also...
wall/flr sheathing thickness...
regards
As others mentioned, depends on your geographic region. In Floirda where I live, insulation is not a big deal yet wind force resistance is. When I built mine, I spent extra on pouring all the walls solid and larger Simpson connectors. While in MN or similar that might be a waste yet better concerns for things like ice dam prevention might be more useful.
as I mention the dade county codes, that is the toughest code as far as high winds resistance construction.
BB,
Exactly! The non-profit I do consulting for uses Miami-Dade as the benchmark for things like Product Approval and component selection.
If an item such as a window or door meets MD standards, it is pretty much good enough for a windpressure rating anywhere.
Mike
Some things always worth improving (for me):
Spend the time/money on good design up front.
Thermal insulation/windows/air sealing.
Acoustic separation of spaces, and from outside if in a city.
All drywall at least 5/8" type X, if using drywall.
Generous roof overhangs with good holddowns at the rafters.
One thing I will add that is not really code driven but more just practicality benefical.
I have each of my bathrooms on a separate shut-off for the plumbing. So when the day comes that a faucet or line breaks or fails, I can just isolate that room until I can fix it. This way my whole house is not without water while I frantically repair it.
A day without water in a rental house convinced me to do that!
The response about design and then check code is great but just from materials standpoint:
Roof shingles-I would not use minimum code. I would either use different product or upgrade
I'd say rain screen or flashings but the code specifies keeping water out, it is just that few know how to do it in our area.
Overhangs. Not referenced in code but I would have them on my next house
Floor materials but that is more of an architectural thing
Insulation Insulation Insulation
Draintile depending upon soil conditions and waterproofing
First roof to wall connection. for a few hundred extra dollars a roof can be retained in rather extreme wind such as an f1 or 2 tornado of hurricane.. the added roof retention even helps in earthquake zones..
Some things cost massively more depending on location. for example a timberframe hand built not from a kit can be made for a few thousand dollars woth of materials..
That not only adds to the strength and durability of the house but it's resale value..
Most parts of the country better insulation is always a good payback.
* Good design
* Better insulation and sealing against air infiltration
* Main electrical panel with at least 6 spare spaces and conduit/smurf up or down to accessible space
* Extra 3-way switches
* Ball valves rather than gate or globe
* Mud support under fiberglass tub(s)
* Wider doors and stairs
* Blocking for towel bars, cabs, behind door knobs