hi all, started to tape my drywall wouldn’t you know the first seam, I got the tape crooked and didnt notice till it was dry. One edge appears to be centered over the seam (i measured 4′ from the top of the wall down) but other end is too high and the seam is about an 1/2″ from the top edge of the tape……does this warrant retaping or repair the seam?
I seam (pun intended) to have troube keep the tape center over the seam once the mud is on espically on long joints……any tips?
Dan
Replies
if the tape isn't over the seam you should re-do it.
First, don't mud it up too thick so you have trouble finding the seam. Then as you roll out the tape (or have torn off the right length before embedment (?) apply it right smack dab in the middle of that recessed seam. Draw the knife with equal pressure to set the tape, it shouldn't turn. Keep an eye on it.
I'll often lightly press the tape in the mud along the joint and then go back over with the knife to embed it. Don't press it in too hard or your tape will scrunch up and you'll be screwed again, only differently.
Or, use self stick fibreglass and definitely bed the tape with Durabond.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
As long as the actual joint is covered, you'll be OK. A 1/2 " off isn't ideal, but it should work.
A trick I use to keep the tape centered is, after applying a coat of compound, to use the edge of my taping knife to find the seam, and leave a line in the compound indicating the joint. Then, as you set the tape, you can use the centered line as a reference.
I generally run a line every 4' or so, but you may want to do it more often until you get comfortable with it.
If I was there I could show ya but since Im not ;
I tap a half blade of mud on a six inch blade and drive it home angling to the dry side of the knife . What happens when you do that is mud gets pressed in side the crack and pooches out cause its full. I guess the mud droops becuse I tape with pretty wet mud . Wet mud is necesary to wet the tape so the line of droppy mud is always there if the mud is mixed right for me.
Tim
as long as the tape is over the seam, you're fine.
i pull the tape off the roll and set it by feeling for the seam with my thumb as i go along. hold your thumb on the center fold line of the tape and feel for the seam through the tape and the mud.
and make sure you put the side with the ridge of the fold against the wall.
Hey, I got that same seam on my wall.
I like to use a 4" knife. I put a thin coat of mud and apply the tape. I like to hold the roll in on hand and apply the tape with the other. When I get to floor, I hold the tape to the floor with the knife and tear the tape away with the other hand. No waste! Stay away from fibre tape. If you happen to hit when you are sanding you will have little fibereglass hairs poking through your mud that no amount of sand will get rid of. Add a little water to your mud before starting. This will help keep you coats thin and reduce errors. Use a wider knife ever for each coat. The wider the knife on the finish coat the better.
Work the air out of your mud. All premixed compounds are full of air bubbles from the manufacturing process. Work the mud over with your trowel on your hawk before applying. This will prevent little holes all over your sanded joints. Again, no amount of sanding will take the bubbles out.
Under no circumstances do you tape with Durbond on your walls. Durabond drys to a concrete like substance that is impossible to sand. It wood be like trying to sand the bumps out of your sidewalk.
Good Luck
hi guy thanks for the reponses...... looked at it again today and may only have a 1/4" of tape over the seam at one end........ can i just put on another layer of tape to correct this.........also how much mud do youns use under the joints,the books I have on drywall say about 1/4" which seems too thick.
Dan
you could but you will have to feather your mud out alot further to hide the lump. By the sounds of it you may be better off just tearing it off and starting over. See my previous comments on how to tape. That should help.
Doctor Dave
The 1/4" number is probably how much mud to start with, but not what's left after the tape is embedded. That's a little much for me, but not too far off.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
"Under no circumstances do you tape with Durbond on your walls. Durabond drys to a concrete like substance that is impossible to sand. It wood be like trying to sand the bumps out of your sidewalk."
Done correctly, there's no better product to imbed tape. And the only mix to use with the initial coat on fibreglas tape and corner bead. For the beginner, maybe too big of a chance to take. However, we're all beginners the first time. But remember, this is from a dumb carpenter.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Got a job to tape today. I will be using Easy sand 90 to tape and on the metal.
I don't use fiberglass tape.
And I am not a drywaller, but I did drive by a Holiday Inn Express yesterday._______________________________________________________________
tagline challenged
If we dont "set" tape with setting type compound such as Durabond, what then are setting compounds for?
I am in no way a pro at taping & mudding but i have done a bit, and always started with Durabond 90 before the tape. The nice thing about it is that by the time you get to the end of the room you can probably get back to do the 2nd coat out of the bucket of compound.
But i agree completely on the trying to sand your sidewalk part!! The stuff is for setting and major repairs. It also works nice for skimming old horsehair plaster during rehab. After the 1st coat go back w/ a dry knife to knock down any ridges, do a 2nd if needed then you break out the green bucket for the finish coat.
i am not crazy about the easy sand version or the lightweight "Blue" compound of either type.
Happy sanding!!
we always tape with Durabond 90 or 45
sometimes our 2d coat is Durabond also... only on finish do we switch over to regular joint compound
and we use fiberglass mesh for our tapeMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Fiberglass tape and only Durobold have work well for me, especially in damp coastal climate.
If we dont "set" tape with setting type compound such as Durabond, what then are setting compounds for?
The "setting" part of the name in setting compounds refers to the fact that they cure (or set) rather than dry. I don't really think it's a reference to how they are to be used.
Nonetheless, Durabond setting compound is a a great product for embedding tape (if you don't overdo do it) and Easysand is a great topping compound.
-Don
Thanks for the terminology correction. As i said, tape and mud is not my profession but the guy who taught me many years ago showed me to use the stuff and i have never had a problem using it for "embedding" and for plaster repair.
i much agree w/ Mike Smith and all who pointed out that the less you try to sand in wall finishing the better off you are. Wide blades and a light touch go a long way to give you a speedy and cleaner job.
Thanks
Most of us who regularly use Durabond don't do much sanding... we don't need to. Sanding is real slow and incredibly messy. Why not take excess mud off with the knife instead?
you're right there.. we don't sand 1st or 2d coatMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Isn't it nice to get such a clear consensus in the answers? :)
Its like anything else everybody has a opinion
Dan