Hi There,
I’m tiling my shower surround and it has a window. To deal with the outside corner on the side of the window, I have been mitreing the edge of the tile. I’m using a Ceramic tile and I have a good quality saw with a good blade. The cutting goes fine until the very end, when the final corner chips away rather than cutting cleanly.
I’m at the stage where I can’t be fussy about this too much longer, but is there a trick to cutting tiles on the mitre that I’m missing?
Thank you for the help.
Replies
too much feed rate.....
blade a out of true/flexing...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
too much feed rate..... so I am feeding the tile through the blade too fast?blade a out of true/flexing... meaning the blade is wobbling around a bit and I need to adjust that some how?
yup....
change the blade...
make sure the the cut tracks square...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
Have you tried backing out of you cut and starting from the other side?
Or you could put a little cut in the trailing side first. Then cut as usual.
If you need to keep both cuts lined up use a cutting guage behind the tile so the references the same from both sides.
does that help?
I'll try a little cut on the trailing side first, that might work, good suggestion. I have a cutting gauge and have been using it - my skills are such that if I don't use any and all available crutches, it really really shows.
Thanks
I am not sure if it would help or not.But I would try this.Cut it a little wide, maybe 1/8"Then trim it to the needed size..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
When I did my bathroom I put some inside miters on some tiles by using my bench grinder. It made a lot of dust, but it didn't take very long and I was able to sneak up on the miter to get it just right.
It may be too late for your situation, but can you get bullnose tiles to use on that outside corner? No mitering involved, and you won't have a sharp edge.
A bullnose would have been a simple idea, but it's not the look my wife was hoping for... not sure I'm executing the look she had in mind either, but my labour is cheap, friendly and I still cook dinner.
Something I found useful is to back up the tile with a scrap piece as a "pusher", so that force is applied evenly along the width of the tile.
Work very hard at keeping the tile square to the fence and not letting it slip.
With regard to feed rate, not too fast but not too slow. There's an optimal speed for minimizing tear-out.
Try cutting the pieces face down (if you've been working face up) or vice-versa. (Be sure to clear the table of small chips before working face-down.)
Thanks DanH
I'm going to give your suggestions a try this afternoon. I'll let you know how it goes.
Are you using a continuous rim saw? If nothing else works, you could try hitting the trailing edge part of the cut first with an angle grinder so the tile saw doesn't have to cut that last little bit.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
If it's a thin lesser expensive blade the blade might be slightly bent. Check it up against the sliding bed by turning it by hand and see if it has a slight wobble....bigger n smaller gaps against the center of the sliding bed.
Check the blade edge for small chips.
I just had that happen on a blade of mine. Everything was cutting fine until I got to the end too.....I switched to a brand new blade and it was fine. It's hard to tell sometimes on a diamond blade how worn it is.....until you change it.
If you cneck the thicknesses of cheap to more expensive blades...the more expensive blades are a LOT thicker causing less flex/wobble.
http://www.cliffordrenovations.com
http://www.ramdass.org
that's tellin him....
now get back to yur party...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
Do you realize that you are creating a sharp edge on the tiles? That might not be comfortable to lean against. That's why they make bullnose tile.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Stop giving youself problems!
Just paint the tile edge and overlap the tile around the window.
You tile is breaking away cause it has no support at the end of the cut.
My opinion based on some years of experience actually doing this type of work........a-hem; you've gotten a lot of decent suggestions of varying degrees of validity.
My eperience with this is that it's a #### shoot. Some tile just 45 better than others. Some do, some don't. It's difficult at best no matter what you do.
Slow and steady. Bill H made a decent suggestion about cutting them long then trimming them.
I probably would touch the edge with a few swipes of a carbide stone and I would have left a bit more space for a joint where the tiles meet.