Mixing small batches of Hot Mud

How do you handle small DW repairs using hot mud?
I have used some small round buckets that worked OK if I was just filling a small hole or a corner where mud had come off in a chunk when wallpaper is removed.
But if I have a little bigger repair or need to tape something then I use the mud pan.
In any case it seem that I spend twice as much time cleaning as I do repairing. And If I have to use pan then it is 3 times getting the corners cleaned out.
And as slow as I am I sometimes have to make 2 or 3 batches. By that time regular mud could have dried.
I watch a vinyl floor installer. He used a white and gray patching compound. They are both a quick setting compound like hot mud.
He took a couple of paper cups of the mix and dump it on the floor. Then poured a little water on it and took a 12″ knife to work it back and forth to mix. Then used the knife to spread it until it was all gone.
Then just had a trace on his knife and took a scraper to clean it off. Did not have to wash anything.
Tried that with the hot mud, but it keep falling off the wall.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Replies
Use a scrap of plywood or sheetrock on the flat and mix it there.
Then to clean it, tilt it up and scrape into the trash can
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Plasterers call that a mortar board.
I've also seen it done directly on the hawk.
Sprinkle a ring of powdered mud (or pour a small pile and then hollow out the center.) Put the water in the center and mix with the knife or trowel.
Also works well with mashed potatoes and gravy.Pete Duffy, Handyman
"Also works well with mashed potatoes and gravy."I think that is what was used ont eh wall paper that I removed Friday and Saturday.One wall had enough paste to do a whole other room..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
I usually use my mud pan for my mixing, except if I'm mixing pretty large quantities (and either have buddies helping or are using a longer setting time compound).
Clean up is a hassle, but I find not too bad. What I do is once I either use all the compound I need or the stuff I'm using starts to set, I use one of the smaller knifes (4" usually), scrape as much out of the pan as I can, and toss the compound into the garbage. Then I use either the laundry tubs (or 5 gal DW bucket with water) and use a scrub brush to scrub the pan. I actually have a small scrub brush (like a toothbrush) that can get into the corners of the pan if I'm being picky about clean up. It actually isn't too painful.
As to the comment "And as slow as I am I sometimes have to make 2 or 3 batches. By that time regular mud could have dried." Well... I love hot mud for it's big mistake fixing capability. Any big holes/gaps are easily taken care of with hot mud, while the bucket stuff would 1. take forever to dry, and 2. crack in the process. And... if you're taping using fiberglass tape, Durabond (or equivalent) is typically the best compound to use.
Ziplock freezer bag, put a small bit of mud powder in, add a little water, close bag, knead bag until proper consistency, cut corner off bag (like a grout bag), squeeze onto a piece of cardboard or a hawk. Then all you have to clean up is the hawk and the knife. Haven't seen a method that requires less cleanup. I've even squeezed it out onto the knife and left the hawk in the tool box.
Brilliant! Thank You! I'll do that Thursday in my library -
I use the baggie method too. Since I bring my lunch in them, I usually have one floating around in my truck... I have also used them for mixing floor leveling compound, Durham Rock Hard Wood Putty, and even super small batches of mortar. For Drywall I usually use the 45 minute setting mud for more working time, but for thin patches - say 1/16" or less - typically the second coat - I use regular mud as it will actually dry rather quickly if applied in a heated house. BTW - I'm no drywall guy - I just do some final pointup before my painters make it pretty!
great idea.... i have a sheet of rubber i use for stuff like this... let it dry then roll it up and it all flakes off... but your deal tops em all.... even a small trash bag would work...
many thanks
p
I tell you a secret - for me it's originally a cook's thing. Mix up icing that way, also great for deviled eggs, put the yolks in the bag with mayo, mustard and spices and pipe it into the whites halves.
But this ain't CT so I'll shut up now.... it works well for anything you have to mix dry and wet in small batches. Pancakes and grout.
always did my fish that way to bread em.... and i steam all my fresh veggies in a zip lock add a little olive oil and garlic and a bit of salt... and mircowave in the zip lock... in 3 min you have em ready to eat ....
p
Try mixing it on a plastic bondo mixer from an autopaint store. About a sq ft size, stick resistant.
cut the wall out with yer sawzall and lay it flat so you can mix on it.
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I usually do use a mud pan, stainless, but if you dont like that way, why not grab a pile of mix tubs from the paint store. I've used them too. You can get the quart size for like 50 cents, and reuse them. Let the stuff cure and whack it once. It all falls out.
Real trucks dont have sparkplugs
I use this bucket:
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with these disposable liners:
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The liners cost about $1.00 each. I just throw them away. It sure beats cleaning.
Edited 3/19/2007 7:51 pm ET by DonCanDo
Edited 3/19/2007 7:51 pm ET by DonCanDo
I use a pan, not a hawk, so when I need more than a smidgeon, I mix in the pan.
I'm going to use the pan anyway, so I don't dirty up anything else, or have anything to keep in stock, and then throw away.
Put the powder and water in the pan, then chuck an old mixer beater in your cordless drill and mix away, goes pretty fast, and the mud is smooth, with no lumps. When done mixing, run the beater in a bucket of water and it's clean.
Now is when I take care of the corners in the pan: I use my knife to fold the mud from the corners into the middle of the pan, and I do this until I am out, not much in the corners to clean now.
Take the pan and knife to the water bucket and a few swipes with a sponge/scotchbrite combo pad and wala! you're ready to go again.
If you still have a little in the corners, I don't worry about it, or, if I want to, I grab a four-in-one tool and have my way with the corner.
Part and parcel of hot muddin'.
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Edited 3/19/2007 8:38 pm by Heck
I was a plasterer at one time and still do it once in a while, so I don't use any kinds of pans at all, either to pull from or to mix on unless it's a large batch like 5 gal, and then I'll use the paddle mixer. Try it, it's actually a lot easier than dealing with a pan.
Make a ring out of the dry mix and pour in your water and start to mix in the dry without 'breaking the dam'. It's the same technique to make fresh pasta. Once you get the hang of it, you'll see how easy it can be. Same way with using a hawk. I tried using a mud pan, but just hate it.
Many times I'll do the mixing right on the hawk.
If a mud pan is the right size, you might consider upgrading your cleaning and mixing equipment.
Everyone likes a different cleaning brush, or no brush at all, but I like a roundish 1-1/2" nylon brush for regular mud and quick mud if it's cleaned up before setting. A stainless wire brush works better if there is any mud too set for the nylon. Brushes that get into the pan corners will really save time.
Have you ever used a flat nosed 2" concrete margin trowel for mixing in the pan? It's quicker than using a knife.
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For slightly larger batches I mix mud in a 1 gal bucket with the margin trowel.
Good patching!
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
"as slow as I am I sometimes have to make 2 or 3 batches. By that time regular mud could have dried."
It takes you 12-16 hours to complete a drywall repair? :)
Seriously, use slower hot mud. I use 5-minute for filling little holes, 20-minute for a single small patch, 40 minute or even 90 minute for larger repairs. By the time I finish the last part, the first part is set up enough to scrape the high spots with my 8" knife and to smooth and feather the edges with a damp grout sponge.
I do a finish coat, when needed, with quicker-setting mix than the first time because I can move faster when topping than when taping.
As soon as the top coat sets, I scrape, sponge smooth and spray water-base texture.
I got snake bit using some cementious based Armstrong floor patch. I worked the first batch a little too long. And by the time that I went to clean up I had a real mess. That and the statement that I have heard that you have to COMPLETELY CLEAN the equipment or it would contaminate the next batch.So I stop a little early and spend to much time cleaning out the old.Thanks to everyone. Gotten lots of good ideas.The last one that I did was a couple of small holes. I mixed it in a couple of quarter round bucket with a 1" putty knife and used that to transfer it to the walls. They a 4" to smooth it out. That worked well and cleaned up easily.I like the baggy idea, but that made me thing of something else. The reusable/disable Gladware containers with lids. For small patches I can have several of those already filled with powder. Then when done they should release the dried mix.And if I don't have to clean and only scrap the blades clean I can keep working it until it too hard.But for larger repairs I want a straight edge for wiping and loaded the knives.I am going to try the plywood or hawk for that. But I am not sure if can mix on the on it or no. If not I will use a small round bucket.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
right in the DW mud pan...
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