This lake lot I bought is getting a timberframe – sometime in about 4 to 5 years. In the meantime, I want to exhaustively plan this out. Therefore, full evaluation requires a model of the finished plan.
I’m figgering I’ll use a 1/8th scale. To accurately display things relative to the lake, I need to build the model on the hill. Since the proposed house will be about 110′ above the water – I’ll need about a 14″ high base on the model.
If you were doing this, how would you proceed and what materials would you use?
Edited 1/31/2008 11:24 pm ET by peteshlagor
Replies
If it the base you are asking about I would use urethane foam board cut into the near semblance of the lay of the land.
The somewhat open cell structure makes it easy to plaster over with hotmud and landscape.
Model RR people use it all the time.
Is that the poster board type or insulating type?
Insulation board.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
CAD
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I've got Chief for that.
I build models all the time.
What works well for contours at 1/8th scale is 1/4" foamcore. Align the cuts at the 2' contour marks.
For the building itself use watercolor paper (bought at Michaels) with the windows, doors and fenestration pencil drawn on. I hope a coupla of photos show up here.
Runnerguy
So using Dovetail's foam board for the ruff, and build upon that with the foamcore?
What scale are those trees and things for train modeling?
No. Use the foamcore as the base throughout. Simply glue one layer on the next. You don't have to extend every layer to the edge if it's gets too long.
Let me try the photo thing again. This building is on flat ground so no topo. It's here just so you can see how the building itself is constructed with the penciled in fenestration. Very quick and easy. I do it all the time.
Runnerguy
What scale are those trees and things for train modeling?
Probably HO, which is 1:87, which, for trees & such will not be too far a ways from the 1:96 which is 1/8" = 1'-0"
(For those who want to know, to get proportional scale from architectural, divide 12 by the fraction, so 12 ÷ 1/8 = 96; 12 ÷ 1/4 = 48, etc.)
N scale will be a tad small, at 1:160 versus the 1:192 of 1/16" = 1'-0"
For your hill, if you have a 2' contour drawing of the site, you can take that down to the copy store and make a couple dozen copies. Those copies can be then laid upon the 1/4" foamcore. Then, "xacto" every other contour line out. Thes can then be stacked, with the overlap providing a glue space to "build up" the layers.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
I got the topo. I figgered I wouldn't need dozens, only a few and concentricly cut out every 3rd or 4th line.
I figgered I wouldn't need dozens, only a few and concentricly cut out every 3rd or 4th line.
Well, "dozens" was a slight exaggeration of effect--but, having done a site model from a Paducah, KY riverbank, those layers add up quickly, and the "left over" cut up contour copies are not nearly as useful as the cut sheets of foam core.
Now, if you get a "pounce wheel" (a handle with a pointed rowel), you can use that wheel to poke a line of itty-bitty holes allong the contour lines through the copy of the topo, which can help needing a bunch of copies. The advantage of that is that you also preserve the "overlap to" line for the glue ups, too.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
I think we're confusing 1/8 scale, where an 80' ranch would result in a TEN FOOT model, with 1/8" = 1' (1/96 scale), where the model of the same house would be a more manageable 10" long.
This is an 3/16" = 1' model (1/64 scale) of a yet-unbuilt addition. The pool is there, and the 1-story part of the house
View Image
Forrest
Edited 1/31/2008 8:17 pm ET by McDesign
No confusion. That was a typo. I've corrected it.
However, the lot is 800' long. That's the reason for the 1/8 scale - and to gain perspective of the rolling hilltop. And the height of the model. Anything larger would be out of control. Anything smaller would appear like a toy.
Nice job of yours. What materials did you use?
I used 1/4" foam. I printed out all the faces from AutoCAD, them used spray-tack to hold them on the foam, then an Exacto knife. Glued with a cheapy hot-glue gun. That way, I never really measured anything on the foam - just cut to my lines, keeping aware of where I needed to extend to account for the foam thickness.
Great part is, even a one-armed man could do it all - I drew and cut and assembled all this with the Robo-Arm of Death!
Forrest - bringing up that old chesnut again
Is there a thread about the robo-arm of death that I missed? That looks like quite a story.
The model is cool, too...
My most exciting experience! http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=67792.1
Forrest
Thanks! Somehow I missed that the first time around, although I'm a pretty regular lurker in these parts.
When people start to carry on about the good old days, I always think about advances in medicine...my father broke his arm in a similar fashion about 1922, and, although it healed without infection, he lost a good part of the function, & had quite a bit of pain in his old age.
Glad it worked out so well for you, & stay away from ladders from now on - as though you need telling!
Another thought is to just print out elevations on paper and fold them up - good for initial (easy) visualization.
View Image
Forrest
Edited 2/1/2008 2:06 pm ET by McDesign
The building display - at least at this point - is not the major concern. It's more of site location, the angle, appreciation for position relative to the rolling hill and the neighboring building sites. Not to mention she needs to be reassured of the beachview and waves crashing.
One of the best models I ever saw was made by an architecture student using foamcore for the building. Many of the rest of us used Styrofoam and tried to carve it--that didn't work well at all. We all used foamcore for the landscape, layering it for the contours.
Can someone exactly define "foamcore"?
I thought I had it down, but that earlier pic of the heavy brown cardboard base confused me.
Foamcore is styrofoam sandwiched between white cardstock. Nice, sturdy stuff that cuts cleanly with an X-acto. There's a similar product (can't remember what it's called) that replaces the paper facing with thin plastic sheet. A little harder to work with, but even more durable.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Edited 2/1/2008 9:40 am ET by MikeHennessy
OK, I'm familar with the plastic sheeted stuff. I can get that at the local paint/artist supply house in 4'x 8' sheets.
But the paper stuff sounds easier to cut. And the plywood idea has that longevity issue down...
Thanks for all of the ideas.
Here is a site that will give you some idea of what is out there. Some of the products are available with a kraft paper facing.
http://www.emplastic.com/
On a hill by the harbour
It is like a tag-board or poster board sandwich with a core of 1/4" foam. It is usually white, sometimes black and can be found in other colors too. Sometimes it had a blue grid printed on it. It's usually about 30" by 16" or something like that if I recall correctly. You get it at hobby/craft stores--it's with the poster board, construction paper and the like.
As others said, foamcore works well, but if you're gonna have this model around for 4 or 5 years, you might wanna consider some nice 1/4" ply. Last longer and looks kinda classy.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
for smaller scale models, museum board is better than foam core. the thickness is nicer to deal with, and it's soft, which makes it easier on your fingers holding the xacto knife over time. you can get it at an art / paper supply store in 30 x 40 sheets or so.
plus, if you don't miter the corners of foam core, or otherwise rabbet them, you'll see the ugly interior foam on your corners.
spray mount with super 77 (3m) a cad print onto the museum board for maximum effect, but i find a model without the lines and textures is just as appealing and worthwhile. you may find that trying to make a model look real is just a faulty endeavor. the more abstract it is the happier you may be. (ie. styroafoam trees and "life-like" railroad model thingys just don't do it for me.
and when you're buying the board / foam core, be sure to spend the money on one of those 100 qty. packs of exacto blades. you'll need them to make precise cuts. foam core tears through sharp blades like CRAZY. and the smaller xacto is the way to go, along with a nice cork-back metal ruler for cutting. you won't slice too many fingertips off that way (unless you're pulling an all-nighter in studio -- been there done that).
i hate making models. you might think about spending your time and money more wisely by investing in sketchup. the ability to change on the fly, get SUPER detailed, and apply materials far outweighs making a model that is going to be kind-of, but disappointly not real enough. and possibly with sketch up, you might even be able to generate something from which you can build -- a paper model will get you nothing like that.
Here's an example of something that took a month or so to build -- full time:
http://www.halstead-architects.com/buggs-06-01-04.html
To build a hill with a minimum of "fill dirt" if you will, get two sheets of foamcore. On both draw every topo line. One the first sheet cut out every other topo line (0',4',8', 12' etc). On the other sheet cut all the topo lines left that weren't cut on the first sheet (2',6',10',14' etc).
On a full base, glue it all together in the proper order aligning a cut topo with the line drawn for an uncut topo on the piece just "downhill". Use vertical foamcore supports to support the "hill" as it gets higher.
You want a minimum of about 1/2" of overlap every topo for a glueing surface. If the hill is too steep to give you this then get three sheets of foamcore and cut at every third topo line on each one (0',6',12',18' etc).
If you want sides to the hill use foamcore for this, cutting the top to fit the topo.
Runnerguy
Edited 2/1/2008 4:05 pm ET by runnerguy