I’ve worked in the construction industry for 16 years and I’ve never been so confused as I have been in trying to create design standards to proactively eliminate (as much as possible) mold and mildew issues. It’s like all of sudden the experts are saying that we’ve been building our houses wrong for the last 50-80 years but they can’t precisely design how to do it right. I work for luxury custom homebuilder in Central Florida and we build 14,000 square foot homes so you can imagine how complicated things can get with our homes. Are they any good resources for my region that accurately defines how to do things correctly? I’ve been on the homes that work website and that was good but I’m looking for even more definition.
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There was an excellent article in the October issue of the Journal of Light Construction about sizing air conditioning in humid climates. If the unit is not carefully sized, not only for tonnage but air velocity across the coils, then moisture is not removed from the air despite the space reaching a comfortable temperature. There are good control systems that make humidity control work much better than just turning the AC system on and off. I highly recommend the article.
I don't know if this is the website you have already seen, but it's supposed to be pretty good, though I haven't checked it out myself. http://www.buildingscience.com/
Turk,
there's an excellent publication at my local library that addresses this issue. I'll have to look up the title and get back to you. Meanwhile you could browse this sight of government publications. Most books are available as pdf files that you can easily access. The booklet I'm talking about is a government publication.
http://www.gpoaccess.gov/cgp/
I too feel your pain. A lot of the building methods used now are completely bogus. Even the manufacturers sometimes prescribe poor construction methods that I have to adhear to for warranty considerations. I guess you realize that moisture is the enemy. I have learned some tricks from a builder from Nantucket that can be applied to southern building. He would allways tell me to "think like water". The method of splining window and door openings with building felt is far superior to any of the newer methods and is even accepted by Andersen for use with their products. I can still hear him saying "this is how we do it in Nantucket where the weather gets bad for real".
cleve
in Charleston, SC
Thanks Cleve,
I appreciate any information you could forward my way. I'll relay the information back to you as far as some of the research that I've come across when I have more time. Again, your response is greatly appreciated.
Todd
Todd,
here is the web sight for the book I mentioned. I think they have it in pdf. I don't think you can go too far wrong using this advise, since they provide the flood insurance. They have an entire library you can use.
best of luck,
cleve
http://www.fema.gov/hazards/floods/lib55.shtm
Coastal Construction Manual: Principles And Practices Of Planning, Siting, Designing, Constructing, And Maintaining Residential Buildings In Coastal Areas
Turk:
Have been considering a couple moisture fighting ideas that are very efficient.
One is the use of the whole house fan. I think that every home should have one.
The other is using chain to direct water instead of guttering. I know a couple tricks
that may interest you. It's been a long time since we chatted. Reply if your'e still out
there.
Cleve
Could you provide more details about "The method of splining window and door openings with building felt..."ThanksBrockway
Brockway:
I've been trying to come up with a good explanation of splining for you, and here it is. Be assured that this process is much quicker to build than it is to describe. Splining is an efficient and economical method to eliminate moisture around expensive windows and doors. It not only creates a tight seal, but provides a path by which any moisture present in the many layers of building material outside the sheathing can weep to the outside of the dwelling. It is simple and time tested. I believe that many siding/window interfaces can benefit from it as it is very adaptable. There is, of course, a trick to it.
Let's spline a typical flanged window measuring 3'X6' tall at the outside of the jamb or trim. The window flange is nailed over some sort of vapor barrier and covered with that adhesive backed window wrap on all four sides. I see this alot, and in my opinion, this dwelling is not ready to receive siding. There are too many places where moisture can become trapped. Unroll two lenths of 30# asphalt felt (15# felt will work but is not as stiff). One piece 8' and one 5'. Cut them in half along the long axis. The trick is in the fold. Make a straight crease and fold each of the four strips in half the long way. If you make the folded edge straight, there is no need to measure.You should now have four splines about 8" wide. These strips will be nailed flat against the wall with the folded edge tight against the outside edge of the jamb or trim.
Begining at the bottom, center one 5' spline below the window. Run a row of tacks along it's length placing them about 2" below the fold and about 8" apart. Next install the sides keeping the folds straight and tight against the window. Start the top 8"wide edge of these splines about 4" above the window. When nailing the sides, minimize the number of nails and place them at least 4" away from the window. Let the bottom of these side splines hang long over the bottom spline. Tack it in place so it doesn't blow away. These flaps will terminate between the layers of siding to provide an exit for the moisture. They get trimmed to length as the siding is nailed on.
For the top spline. Cut the last 5' spline down to about 3'-8". Cut a horizontal slot in the vapor barrier at 6" above the head jam or trim of the window. Make it the same length as the top spline. Open the flap of the spline to form a trough. Slip one leg of the flap under the vapor barrier positioning the spline so that the fold will be tight against the jamb. Working under the slot in the vapor barrier, tack the very top edge of the flap in place and cover the edge and the nails with a strip of window wrap. Close the spline over the outside of the vapor barrier and tack it in place keeping the nails at the top. The top spline should lap over the side splines with the trough you created draining onto the middle of each side spline. Notice that there is no longer a trap for moisture.
The application of the siding is the last step. If you hold the siding or trim 1/4" off of the window, the folded edges of the spline will create a stiff seal against the window as the siding or trim is snugged up. Finish with a bead of caulk, and you can walk away from the job knowing it is highly unlikely that water can damage the window.
Hope this makes sense. Just remember to "think like water".
cleve.
Edited 12/5/2004 5:18 pm ET by cleve
Edited 12/5/2004 7:15 pm ET by cleve
Wow - that's an excellent explanation. I've never heard of this being done. Is it very common in your area? I'm going to give it a try. You wouldn't happen to have any photos of this would you?Thanks,Brockway
Brockway:
I don't have a picture of this handy just now, but I'll see if I can find one. Splining is more common in the north-east coastal region. You'll find it where shake or shingle siding is used to prevent ice from forming underneath the siding. I don't see it used much here on the south coast, but I insist on it whenever I'm in charge. It adds an extra measure of safety, because we certainly have high moisture levels here.
Talk to you later,
cleve.
That's the way I learned to do it in California from the contractor who taught me. He died in 95 at the age of 76. He was taught that way too.
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