Hello once again,
What would you recomend for a primer for bare wood and trim for a window?
The window jamb is bare wood while the casing was pre-primed. I do not know if it is latex or oil based primer, so I would like to cover both with a quality primer. Also what brand and type trim paint would you then use to cover?
Thanks again for all the help, KaiserRoo
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Replies
Bare wood, Behr primer. But bear in mind that bare wood has it's own bearing and may be better left bare for the more descerning bears in your woods.
Latex primer, latex top coat. Just use a quality brand of paint.
I'm curious to follow along here. I am stripping and reglazing many,many sash and doors. Here is what I have learned.
Exterior I have used SW A-100, it seems fine, but really I am not a big fan of Oil Based THICK primer ( the HO insisted on using this)
Interior the same HO supplied a latex by SW ( can't recall the name just now) and it seems to be specifically for gloss paint and more dedicated to walls of plaster and drywall, with a brief mention of wood..I just today used it for the first time..horrible..to the pont I called the HO and pretty much insisted I go with what I have known to be the best...Zinnsers B.I.N. Pigmented shellac.
These are Poplar frames from 1900's and in great shape, but the latex raised the grain ( esp since I sandblasted the interior parts) and was generally not playing nice.
Go with B.I.N. for all interior work and Oil Based Kilz ( original) or A-100 for exterior, but it will hide detail being a thick primer. I also have used Kilz spray ( Oil based, but labeld as interior) with great results.
Everthing for this HO is getting SW brand Duration top coat, and anothetr customer for whom I am doing almost the exact same work, is sticking with Porter brand top coat, and allows me to use any primer I prefer.
Alot depends on the surface you are starting with, it sounds as if you painting raw (not stripped) well sanded wood ( like a new sash) So, I'd prefer to spray light coats, to keep the build up at a minimum and not loose the quirks and details of the muntins and mullions. And a penetrating shellac does just that.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
You gonna play that thing?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32Ln-SpJsy0
I like Bullseye (white pigmented shellac) as well. I use it for both inside and outside.All cuts get primed, unless it is glued, and it dries real fast. Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
Thanks to all of you for the advice. I hope to start tonight or tomorrow but it is very hot and humid here in RI
KaiserRoo
SW has a number of different primers.PreRite ProBlock latex is probably a good universal primer.
I whenever wallpaper has been removed to seal any residue.Best I can tell it is similar to Bulleye 123. They also make a Prerite High BOnd for going over glossy surfaces.
That might have been what you used.This list there interior primers.http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_it_yourself/sherwin_williams_products/interior_house_paint/primers/index.jspAnd exterior.http://www.sherwin-williams.com/do_it_yourself/sherwin_williams_products/exterior_house_paint/primers/index.jspThis is a flyer on just he Preprite line. Very interesting table that
shows the characteristic of the different Prerites and what they are
used for.If you go here you can get the data sheets and application and
MSDS. But you need to go throug the different classes of primers.http://www.sherwin-williams.com/pro/sherwin_williams_paint/sherwin_williams_paints/primers/index.jspIsee tht they have a pigmentic shellac under the Hides catagory..
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Edited 7/8/2008 6:26 pm by BillHartmann
It's the preprite I have here. Supplied by the HO. I just hate it.
I'll stick with what I have had good luck with over the years.
He has a deal with SW for a modicum of a discount, but if I am the one using it, and it fights me, he winds up paying more.
Good to see they do have a shellac based product, I wish the saleman/tech had told him that!Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
You gonna play that thing?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32Ln-SpJsy0
Which preprite? the Problock or the High Bond.I have only used the high bond once. I am not sure, but I think that it was the stuff that was real hard to clean off the brush..
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
I can't get to can easily ( storm brewing and I have the dogs locked up inside, can'r make it to the shop) but I think it was the first one on the page I opened the 'Classic'. I use toss away brushes, so as far as clean up I don't know.
It was hard to keep in suspension while using it, constantly restirring helped, but it was way thin at first. It is a NEW can( qt) as of Thursday last. It also seemed to raise the grain significantly, but it was a sand blasted ( 80 grit Garnet) surface, that I wanted to avoid resanding any more than I had to. The solids did NOT fill any divots from the blasting, like I know BIN has in the past. And BIN burns in to previous coats, this acrylic I don't think will, so it will just layer over any divots AND build around them.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
You gonna play that thing?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32Ln-SpJsy0
when I make wooden screen frames I apply two coats of linseed oil/mineral spirits, let dry 24 hoursbetween coats and before primer, apply white pigmented schellac primer and then a coat of latex paint.
"Never pick a fight with an old man. If he can't beat you he will just kill you." Steinbeck
In some cases ( such as this one) I am at the mercy of the Customer, unless I can kick and scream enough (G).
For myself and my home, I stick with simple. Tried and proven works (so far).
To be honest I can make a mirror finish on a piano with lacs and varnishs, but I HATE painting SO much, I just try to avoid it at all costs, and if I DO have to paint, gimme a spray gun or can, me and paint brushes also don't get along.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
You gonna play that thing?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32Ln-SpJsy0
What about this product?
Zinsser Perma White - Mildew Proof Interior Paint - Semi-gloss
William Zinsser & Company Inc.
Perma White - Bathroom wall and ceiling paint
GENERIC TYPE
Single component water-borne acrylic topcoat.
GENERAL PROPERTIES
A durable, high performance, low lustre acrylic topcoat for use in humid areas which are prone to mildew growth.
KaiserRoo
I've not used it, but I trust that manufacturer more than a few others.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
You gonna play that thing?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32Ln-SpJsy0
I tried Perma-White. I didn't like it. It was way too thick and it took a lot of effort to apply. It also created a heavy texture (stippling) that didn't easily match where I had cut-in with a brush.
It's probably a fine product, but it's not worth the extra effort to me.
I also don't believe that it's "self-priming" feature would match the performance of a true primer. I have no evidence to support that, but it sounds like marketing to me.
I do like BIN shellac-based primer, but it's also difficult to apply because it's so thin. It works well and dries fast so I use it mostly as a stain-killing primer. For interior work, my usual primer is Benjamin-Moore Fresh Start. It's a 100% acrylic all-purpose primer. I think most acrylic primers are very similar. I don't care for Behr paint, but I wouldn't hesitate to use their primer.