I have two walls that are 43′ long. Should I raise them in sections or as one piece? I have decided to wait and sheath till after they are up.
Is it okay to use temporary wall braces that are staked into the ground (dirt) that is next to the slab?
Are intersecting wall top plates nailed in place as soon as the wall goes up or do you wait to plumb and square them then nail the top plate intersection?
Thanks Again.
Replies
I have two walls that are 43' long. Should I raise them in sections or as one piece? I have decided to wait and sheath till after they are up.
It all depends on how many guys you have to help you lift them. I guess your toenailing?
Is it okay to use temporary wall braces that are staked into the ground (dirt) that is next to the slab?
Do you have any interior walls that you can nail the braces too?
Are intersecting wall top plates nailed in place as soon as the wall goes up or do you wait to plumb and square them then nail the top plate intersection?
Yes, they are nailed before you plumb. You use those walls by nailing a brace on them to straighten the outside walls.
Joe I can get help to raise it as one piece but was wondering which is better. I'm end nailing so the wall is complete with top plate tacked on.I don't have any interiors up yet to brace to. I was thinking of maybe using some Tapcons and placing a few pieces of scrap on the slab and using those. I just didn't want to have to start drilling in the slab.
It is better to raise it in several smaller pieces and save the labor call for something that can't be done in smaller pieces. If I was framing that and not sheathing and didn't have a crane or wall jacks, I'd probably raise it in three sections alone.Why are you concerned about drilling in the slab? Is the slab getting a stained finish or are you just being too picky?
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Quote of the day: "...can't be done, it will take too long, not enough pipeline capacity, yada yada but yet they don't apply the same skepticism to their own "solutions" such as wind and biofuels"
Thanks Jim. No, not too picky just another task I need to do. I guess that might be the best route for now.
Joe I can get help to raise it as one piece but was wondering which is better.
If you have the help always raise it in one piece.
I'm end nailing so the wall is complete with top plate tacked on.
The top plates will always be nailed on no matter what way you nail. I'm talking bout the bottom. I thought you nailed the shoe down already. If so, are you standing the walls up and toenialing the bottom of the studs to the shoe, or did you add another shoe to the bottom and end nail it and then standing the walls up?
I don't have any interiors up yet to brace to.
If you raise the wall in two sections, just be careful where you break the wall. Make sure your not to close to the interior lap joints. Bracing the corners is easy, you just temporarily nail a stud to the outside of the corner post and into the outside of the shoe. Now just nail a temp brace at the end of the wall away from where the interior wall will go and shoot 2x4 into the slab and nail a brace until you get all your interior walls up and laps nailed.
Once all your interior walls are up, you nail braces on them to push your outside walls in or out to straighten.
I was thinking of maybe using some Tapcons and placing a few pieces of scrap on the slab and using those. I just didn't want to have to start drilling in the slab.
Don't even think about doing that and wasting time. Get your interior walls up and brace back to them. You can nail 2-2x4's together to make them long enough.
If you don't have any interior walls you can just shoot the 2x4's into the slab and nail to them and then nail an angled brace from the middle of the brace back to the outside shoe.
Joe Carola
Thanks for the help Joe. Only one shoe at the bottom Joe and it is end nailed to the studs.
Thanks for the help Joe. Only one shoe at the bottom Joe and it is end nailed to the studs.
So that means you didn't shim and nail your pt shoe down and your nailing the pt shoe to the bottom of the studs and standing the walls up? I thought in one thread you nailed the pt shoes down and wanted to know about shimming??
Joe Carola
I think he misundetrstood you, joe. I will step back out and let you finish!
Yes and no Joe. The shim needs to go in but my walls get bolted down to the slab, not nailed. The shim is ready and i'll stick that in while I put the wall up.The exterior walls are framed on the deck and ready to go up. They have both top and bottom plates already on, except that the 43' wall is in 3 sections, 16',16',11', I just didn't know if I should put up section by section or nail it all together and put up the whole 43'.
The exterior walls are framed on the deck and ready to go up. They have both top and bottom plates already on, except that the 43' wall is in 3 sections, 16',16',11', I just didn't know if I should put up section by section or nail it all together and put up the whole 43'.
How can the wall be in three sections if you have both top plate on? Don't you have he top plates overlapping?
Joe Carola
Not to get too involved here but I have done that simply by hanging the
TTP over the end of one section by 4' then after raising the walls nailing the sections together.
Pretty easy to do .
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Exactly. Thanks Dt.
In reply to your question about bracing from the outside of the building using stakes. Yes you can do that for temp bracing. Some of this depends on weather conditions, windy days get a lot more attention paid to braces then days without any wind. Bolt a wall down as soon you get it stood in place. Better though IMO to preplan the wall assemblies. Figure out how to build some of the interior partitions prior to raising the ext wall,brace them square with temp. braces tacked to them . Stack them off to one side if need be. Then once the exterior wall is raised you can drag the partitions over and use them to brace the ext. wall quite quickly.
Always figure out how to have the room to build everything on the deck before nailing it all together.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Thanks Dt. What size nails do I use for the temp. braces? 16d?
Depends on the bracing stock and stakes. 8d if using 1x stock for the braces, 12-16d or sinkers if using 2x stock.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Thanks for your help Dt.
Worth what you pay for it and only "help" if it works!
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Yes but only tacked on at the overlap not fully nailed down yet.
I'm confused--are you going to try to lift this wall up over the bolts? If so, you will have a hard time with it in one piece. I helped frame and sheath a 50' long by 12' high wall once and boss hooked chain to it where holes were cut in sheathing near top plate in order to lift with fork lift. I had wanted to nail sheathing to both top plates and toe nail studs, but he didn't. He got the wall lifted to where I was ready to guide it down onto the bolts when it broke into three pieces and crashed down all around us. I would urge you to do it in pieces, or be very careful!
Thanks Danno. Although I don't have it sheathed I can still see where it might be a hassle to put it all up at once.
Sheathing can actually help hold the wall together while it's being raised. I have several fond memories of walls (unsheated) being lifted (one I recall was to surround a fireplace flue and make it look like a chimney and we were lifting the wall to set it on another or something) and having the studs falling off the plates because they were just nailed through the plates into the studs' end grain instead of being toe nailed. When a six foot wide by 8 foot tall wall comes apart, no big deal, but it gets pretty exciting when something fifty feet long and 12' tall starts coming apart!