More Soffit/ Intake Vent Questions.
Hello. Since I would like to use solid (non vented) bead board for my soffit material what could I use in conjunction for the soffit vents? I don’t want to cut holes in the bead board and screen over or drill the bead board. What other intake vent options can I use? This is a hip roof so I am limited to soffit areas.
Thanks
Replies
There is a vent made that goes at roof edge in conjunction with edging and shingles, but IIRC, you already have your roof on, right?
So you will have to custom design some sort of heavy blocked out frieze that incorporates the venting
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Yeah Piffin the roof is already on. Mike's idea sounds good though, maybe i'll go that route.
I'm interested in seeing mike's idea too. can't quite picture it by the text.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
There is a vent made that goes at roof edge
Are you thinking of Corravent?
It might be the answer for what he wants. "Short" the soffit to make an air gap, the corrugated plastic venting strip goes up, and a trim board (like brick mould) is nailed on right through it.
you get continuous venting with only a shadow line showing behind the trim.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
What I usually do in this circumstance is to use individual grilles (nice ones) with screening siliconed to the back side. You have to cut rectangular holes for the grilles (obviously).
If you don't want to use 'nice grille$' - you can make your own from perf metal sheet (Home D) and surround with molding or wood 'L'.
Jeff
Edited 6/18/2009 7:34 am ET by Jeff_Clarke
Thanks Jeff. I showed moma some nice grills but she would not go for it. Grills would save me a lot of trouble.
I'm doing one like that now. I instal a sub-soffit of 1/2" ply, but leave 1-1/2" or so clear at the outer edge. If the facia isn't on, run a kerf at the same height as the surface of the ply. Install strip vent with one edge in the kerf, the other on the ply. Tack in place. Run your beadboard on the ply and over the vent edge to permanently hold it in place. Makes a nice continuous vent just inside the facia.
I can post some pics later if you want -- and if my pie isn't all used up.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Everything fits, until you put glue on it.
PS: If the facia is already on, I just make a strip to tack up just behind the facia that I kerf to hold the vent tab.
Edited 6/18/2009 7:40 am ET by MikeHennessy
Edited 6/18/2009 7:41 am ET by MikeHennessy
I like that idea Mike. Please post a pic or email some to me.Thanks
I've got some on the camera, but it's not with me. I'll put 'em up tonight.Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.
Thanks Mike.
Lessee if I can post these pics. The "reset" button don't work no mo', so it's gonna pretty much finish off the pic pie, tho'. ;-(
(Actually, 171K left -- about 1 more pic. I'll have to make it a goodun'!)
Here's the sub-soffit installed. 1/2" ply. Note the 2" gap around the facia edge. The left side has the vent strip installed already -- it's shaped kinda like hat channel with two shoulders and a raised center vented section. Here, the one shoulder is tucked into a kerf in the facia on the left, and tacked up on the right with roofing nails waiting for Azek beadboard arrive tomorrow -- I'm using the 3-1/2" stuff to match & it's a special order for my yard.
View Image
Here's a shot of the other corner, pre-vent -- you can see the kerfs here. Note the vent space is a bit tighter on this side at the front -- nothin's square on this shack.
View Image
Here's one of another installation where I had to use a kerfed strip since the facia was already up and I didn't wanna remove it to kerf. Also show how the beadboard covers the lip of the vent to hold it up.
View Image
Either of these methods gets you about 1 sq. ft. of vent / 6 ft of edge. Hope that helps.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.
Edited 6/18/2009 4:12 pm ET by MikeHennessy
That's perfect Mike, Thanks!!! Is the ply just there to help hold up the Azek?Where can I get those vents? Who makes them?Is the last pic Azek? I'm sure the Azek beadboard is a pretty penny. Seems nobody down here in my area of Texas uses Azek. From what I gathered from my lumber yard the builders down here are afraid of the expansion and contraction since we can get above 100 deg. in the summer and freeze in the winter. Thats what they tell me anyway.
The ply is there 'cause it's easier to install thin beadboard if'n there's a "subfloor". I like to use it Azek or no. That way, you don't have to worry about breaking a joint on a joist. It's especially handy at the corners where the beadboard is woven. Also, beadboard's pretty thin and flexible, especially Azek, so this method keeps it "honest". Overkill? Maybe, but it's pretty cheap insurance and it makes the beadboard easier to install.
The beadboard in the last pic is wood bead. The Azek I just bought was $33 per 3-1/2" X 18 ft., so what's that, $6.25/sq ft. or so? I've never had any problems with the Azek & heat here. Pittsburgh ain't Texas, but it does get up into the 90s in the summer pretty regular. And, IIRC, it did get a tad below freezing a time or two last winter. LOL! Just gotta fasten it well. I'm only using Azek on this job because it's a dormer & semi-unreachable for painting. So I'm making it as maintenance-free as possible. My guess is that, if you factor in maintenance, Azek looks pretty reasonable, dollar-wise.
I just get these vents at the yard. Stock stuff. I imagine tons of companies make 'em. I've even picked 'em up at HD in a pinch.Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.
Ahh, so that's why it' there. Good idea. Well lets see what I can come up with.Thanks again Mike.
Hello Mike. Does the vent have to go next to the fascia or can it be against the siding?Thanks
http://www.cor-a-vent.com/s400.cfm
Either will work.
Mikes solution is very elegant, never seen or gone it this way!!
Interesting, 2" continuous is all we use or see, unless it's old work. It usually runs down the middle of the soffit.http://www.tvwsolar.com
Now I wish I could give Brother Bill his great thrill
I would set him in chains at the top of the hill
Then send out for some pillars and Cecil B. DeMille
He could die happily ever after"
i just ran a 1x4 on each side of the soffit with some screen in the middle. I think mine is 3 1/2 inches contiunes
I just screened my own soffits, then ran 3 1x6s with a 1/2" space, don't need much. The aluminum is usually all bent up before it even reaches the soffits<G>http://www.tvwsolar.com
Now I wish I could give Brother Bill his great thrill
I would set him in chains at the top of the hill
Then send out for some pillars and Cecil B. DeMille
He could die happily ever after"
So long as the vents aren't blocked, it doesn't matter where you put 'em. I just like them right behind the facia since they are less visible there. Also, there's often some type of trim, generally associated with a frieze, up agains the house, so spacing becomes more of an issue so the trim doesn't block the vents.Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.
Thanks for all the answers and help.
I'm assuming you also don't want to use the standard 8x16 metal vents, or the round vent plugs.
There is a special drip edge that incorporates a vent. But I'd probably go with the continuous metal vent about 2" wide, placed at the inside or outside edge of the soffit.
Do take into consideration the need to keep insulation from blocking whatever venting you use. With continuous vent it's not as practical to use chutes.