By Cost effective, I really mean CHEAP.
Here’s the deal. I plan to sink my Above Ground Swimming pool 3′ into the ground. There will be a slight grade around the pool so that water can drain out the open end of the cut (picture the pool built into the side of a hill) Around about 2/3 of the pool I will need some sort of retaining wall 2.5 – 3′ tall. Thinking of using the landscape blocks made for that purpose at about $1.99 each.
Was also thinking of using concrete block. (for the CHEAP aspect) Figure this might be a good project to learn and practice laying concrete block since the end result will be covered by a deck and some parts are bound not to be pretty since I’ve never laid block before. The pool is round, so the wall would be semi-circular which would offer some strength benefit to my poor block laying skills. But then I start wondering do I need a frost protected footer for those? The landscape blocks “float” with the frost, the mortared wall probably won’t so well. This is Central MD so frost is a concern. Footing depth here is 36″.
Does anyone have advice or other ideas to offer.
Replies
Do your rreeaallyy want to know how to do it cheap?? My idea of cheap for something like this is basically free except for DIY labor, which is a good way to get exercise without going to a schmatzy dweeb gym or running in the street.
The minimal height makes it easy to do.
First, around here, I'd just stack the rocks that come out of the hole.
Ya need to fill in your profile so we have an idea of your geographic location.....
In areas with clay soil at about the depth you are digging, like central IL, I'd dig down annother foot and make a stack of adobe bricks and fire them with a scrap wood fire.
Local power company gives away what they call "pole butts", treated ends of poles cut off for various reasons, typically 5 ft long - stack those vertically; or even horizontally with a backslope.....
Look around, be $GREEN$ with your $$$, use local natural materials or recycle.
Endless list of how to do it for no out of pocket $$ cost (except maybe gas for your truck, backhoe, or chain saw)
Thanks Junkhound- I like the pole idea and will look into further. Like the stacking rocks idea too. Only problem is there are likely very few rocks that will come out of the hole. Kid you not, when I put up a pole building, I went down 36" with 8" round holes and never hit a single rock. Dug the holes by hand. Nice DEEP topsoil here. Might be able to find some rocks other places though. Would you dry stack or mortar them?I'm in central MD- stated in the post. But I'll double check my profile- thought it was there already.
Edited 6/27/2008 11:15 am ET by frontiercc2
I've installed a number of round above ground pools, some of them in side hill locations. The side hill jobs have always included a deck, about eight feet wide, around the high side of the excavation. No retaining wall is required.
A small flat concrete block, called patio blocks in most places, is placed near the pool wall wherever a support is required for the deck. The same concrete block is used to support the outer edge of the deck.
The deck can be built to cantilever over the pool slightly, if that's desireable.
This method makes the best use of the budget and gives the pool a more permanent appearance.
HVC-Did you backfill directly against the pool, or slope the sides of the excavation? I am hesitant to backfill against the pool structure for corrosion concerns. And if I ever need to empty to pool for maintenance (such as a replacement liner), I would worry about collapse without the water in there to counter the force of the backfill. Due to site constraints, I am not sure I can slope the sides of the excavation but will check with the excavator.I'm not trying to be obstinate here, just want to be sure I get it right the first time.
Edited 6/27/2008 12:23 pm ET by frontiercc2
Just leave the slope as is. Part of the purpose of the deck is to hide the slope and avoid mowing the lawn on the side hill. With an eight foot deck the slope isn't much, less than one foot of rise per two foot of run, no problem from errosion.
You're right about corrosion. It's usually what signals the end of the pool, down near the bottom of the wall.
Your point about possible liner replacement reminds me to mention that it's better to put the deck together with screws...so that enough 2Xs can be removed to stand next the pool.
Edited 6/27/2008 8:16 pm by Hudson Valley Carpenter
Urbanite.
PAHS works. Bury it.