Tired of existing bathroom; remodeling it. Putting in a custom tile shower surround. But the old toilet is in the way need to move it over about 18 inches. I live in florida and we have concrete slabs down here. Is there a tried and true method to moving it over. I know i will have to breakout the jackhammer but can i splice into the old drain line once i cut the opening. Any suggestions
Jaybo
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Replies
dig down to the soil line and if it's PVC glue in / on what you need.. if it's cast add on using a Fernco
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I want a moving toilet!
-zen
being on it and having it move down the street could be interesting
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Brings a whole new meaning to "moving your bowels."
Gawd, that's awful. My bad as my son would say.
Griff
Bust the slab carefully, cuz if it has post-tensioned cables and you cut one, things will get exciting very quickly.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Seeings how I need to do the same thing how would you know if it had post tension cables?
Do they go all the way through? Meaning could I see something on the end of the slab to indicate the cables?
Doug
Well, they're very popular in newer (15 yrs or so) houses in Dallas and San Antonio ... personal experience and observation. If they have not skim plastered the exposed foundation, you might see a small concrete patch about 2" dia every 3-4 feet. Other than that, I have no clue.
The real danger is if you saw cut the slab, cuz you won't see the cable in time. If you chip out the concrete you will just expose it if you chip in the right place, and it should be ok ... except in your case the cable will be exactly where you want to put the new drain.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Ed,What is the minimum thickness of a post-tensioned residential slab where you live? Are the cables at exactly mid-thickness? Where I am going with this is to find out what the maximum safe depth is for saw cuts in such slabs. Short runs, not across the whole slab. Thanks in advance.BillPS - Got any gruesome cut cable stories to share?
Our slab is about 5" thick.
I had a secretary in Dallas who had a cable end anchor come loose. It didn't happen in a flash, probably took a few days for the cable to work loose, but the cable destroyed a section of the slab in the master bedroom. Quite a mess to have it fixed.
Cap'n ... I would think your slab is prime for a post-tensioned cable, cuz it lets the builder do less design work, thinking that the post-tensioning is a solve-all solution. Our house in Dallas was built in 82 and all of them in thatv area had cables.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Thanks, Ed.Bill
Ed
Thanks, Our house was built in the early 70's and is in your average subdivision neighborhood. It probably doesn't have the cables. But I will carefully chip down to find out.
I need to move the stool over about 8" so I really don't need to go cutting a huge sections out.
Doug
You can always move it, it's just a question of how difficult it will be.
Generally the stool is placed so that the main stack is right behind it, with vent up and the other stuff down. I gather that you're moving this sideways along the wall, so at a minimum there will have to be an elbow installed on the soil pipe to aim it over in the direction of the stool. But that may put you too far away from the vent, so you might have to tear out part of the wall and move the vent.
Not the type of project to begin on a Saturday afternoon (especially if this is the only toilet in the house).