I am removing 1/4″ 70’s wood paneling and replacing it with 1/2″ dry wall.
On the outlets and such I am using mud rings to bring the receptacles out to the proper level on the dry wall.
Problem is that I now am to the wall with the breaker box on it. It is a smallish 100 amp box, and the cover of the box has flanges that are on top of the paneling. So to remove the paneling I removed the door and cover, pulled the paneling, then put it back on. Now that I am hanging the 1/2″ drywall I see that if I pull the cover again, then put it back on on top of the drywall that there will be about a 1/4″ gap around every breaker. If I try to cut the drywall around the flanges, the cover of the box will end up recessed about 3/16″ of an inch in the wall.
I would hate to have to get an electrician out just to move a box a 1/4″ what can I do with this thing.
Thanks in advance
Replies
Have you thought of framing around the box and putting a cabinet style door over the entire panel. As long as you can remove the panel cover with out having to remove the door or the frame holding the door. Looks better then a panel cover IMO
I had not thought of that, this is in a bedroom. If this box is not adjustable as mentioned below I may have to give the cab door a shot.
Thanks!
Some boxes have a screw adjustment that moves the entire assembly of breakers in or out. Generally a screw right in the middle.
What holds the box in place? What I'd probably do is first turn off the feed to this sub panel, then carefully pull the nails or remove the screws that hold it to the studs. If it's wired with EMT, you may need to loosen things up a little on that, too.
Then just oonch the box out about 3/8" using a flat bar, fit the sheetrock under its existing flange, shove it back, and screw it in place. Close it up, turn on the juice -- piece of cake.
-- J.S.
This is the main box. So the only way to shut off the juice is at the meter.
It is held in place with 16d common nails driven at a slight angle.
There is no EMT hooked up to it so that is not an issue.
I had considered cutting the nails with a recip saw, moving the box and screwing it in, but I am afraid of getting the thing loose and not being able to drive the new screws in.
What I ended up doing was to hang the DW then install the cover and cut around it with a razor knife. removed the scrap DW and attached J-bead to the exposed DW edges.
It looks OK but not great. no idea if this violates code or not. I imagine I will have to go back into it and fix it if I ever sell the place.
Cutting the nails with a recip saw from behind is a possibility. But given the flange in the way, and the box being quite snug in the stud bay, it's usually easier just to pull the nails. Personally, I'd probably do it hot.
What you've done, with metal J-bead around it, should be fine, too.
-- J.S.
Hang a picture over it. "Dogs Playing Poker" on black velvet would be a good choice.BruceT
Negative in the poker dogs. This calls for an Elvis on black velvet painting.
Saw a show on cable a while back that had some guy who collects paintings on velvet. Dude thinks he's gonna make some major money someday when they come back in style.
Guys I am getting rid of the 70's look. Sheez.
I was thinking of a nice photo of outdoor powerlines, or maybe a matted and framed 8x10 glossy of the sexy new transformer down the street.
The box is an early 70's GE box.
What kind of breakers do you have? If this is an old one like Bulldog Pushmatic or Zinsco (both of which are prone to old-age failure and were manufactured by now-defunct companies) you probably should replace them anyway.
You can get a new face for the old box and an Eaton retrofit load center kit and breakers. Kits available for boxes 10 1/2" to 14" wide, 14" to 45" tall and 3 1/2" to 6" deep.
I think they cost something like $300 - much cheaper than
Eaton Cutler-Hammer
Lincoln Flex Center
800-330-6479