I’ve read articles and seen TV shows where several techniques of nailing clapboards were shown (of course not at the same time); i.e., at the bottom of the clapboard through both courses, through the bottom of the upper course only (and no nails at the upper edge), and finally through the upper course (upper edge) under the covering course (with no nails at the lower edge).
What’s the consensus?
Thanks in advance.
When deck posts exceed what the prescriptive code tables allow, it's time to consult a structural engineer for post sizing and possible bracing.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
"consensus?"
you do realize where you are, don't you?
;)
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
Heh! Heh! Heh!
I guess I'll try my best to sort it out.
I live close enough to the coast (almost a two hour drive) that the building code requires both the blind nails and the face nails (top edge, and bottom edge) -- assuming true clapboards.
In addition, manufactured siding products like hardie require both rows of nails, at least in high-wind areas. Dunno about your area -- your mileage could vary.
I don't blind nail.
I don't have a single nail go through two claps.
For 6" claps (5-1/2" nominal) with 4-1/2" exposure, I'll nail bout 1-1/4" up from the butt end.
I use stainless steel ring shank nails, I nail through the sheathing and into the studs.
No one will refute my methods, for I am the master.
What would you do if there were no studs.............ie, structural insulated panels? Rod
I put a rainscreen with vertical furring strips 16" oc.Then nail off through the furring strips and into the osb skin.
The Consensus?
THE CONSENSUS???
You can't handle the consensus!!!!
haa haaa... drama
~ Ted W ~
Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.net
Meet me at House & Builder!
Edited 4/27/2009 4:49 pm by Ted W.
if you have two nails thru one clap, you will get a lot of splits down the road
traditionally, claps are nailed just above the overlap, so a traditional 4" exposure with a 5 1/4 clap will get nailed 1 1/2 " above the butt
most of the time i see them incorrectly nailed about 1/2 " above the butt, which puts 2 nails thru every clap
Buried in the hardie specs if i remember is the wind rating- I think its 125 MPH for blind nailing ( 1 hidden nail) and only 150 MPH for the face nailing (i blind and 1 face) for their lap siding. i did blind nailing even tho I am in a coastal area as I think face nailing looks bad and 150+ mph would probably blow the house away.
>>"i did blind nailing even tho I am in a coastal area as I think face nailing looks bad ......"Are you confident that your insurance will cover you if your hardie blows away, and your house does not? If it was not installed in accordance with the manufacturer's specs, some might not.
Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.
are you kidding, with all the other construction errors that exist in the world. when face nailing becomes a law then do it
>>"when face nailing becomes a law then do it"Well, in most states, the builing code is written into law.And just about every version of every building code says that manufacturer's specs and instructions are key.And so, when the hardie specs say that face and blind nails are needed in high wind areas (like coastal areas), then face nailing is the law.One possible exception...... It is possible that your local building code authorities have declared that your particular coastal area might not be defined as "high wind". Or that they have failed to declare the area as "high wind". In either of these cases, you're probably legal.I live about two hours from the NC coast, and in my county, we are required to follow 'high wind' specs. An if we don't, we need to worry about our insurance coverage.
Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.
i think you're fulla shid
gimme some chapter and verse about face nailing siding in the code
i work in 110 mph zoneMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
It's probably not in the code -- its in the installation instructions for hardie siding products. And since its in the instructions.........
Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.
Hardie is really starting to pizz me off.. they have so many things in their instructions that are contrary to good practiseMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
they have so many things in their instructions that are contrary to good practise
I understand some don't like the finished appearance and there are installation quirks, but what is contrary to good practice?
i'll give you 2 :
bottoms of claps 2" above horusontal /roofing surfaces
and not caulking their butt jointsMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Agree on the 2 inches- seems excessive to me - 1 inch should be fine
I may be mistaken, but I think Hardie used to say 1", but now recommends either 1" or 2" depending on geographical location. The only thing that makes sense to me (and I've never heard of it) is that there might be an issue of delamination on non-factory edges during freeze/thaw cycles and a 2" gap may help--even though it is incredibly ugly.
I have wondered about the tapered cuts on the rake, especially if cut with shears. If care is not taken during the cut it can get a bit ragged and fuzzy. In snow country would it be possible for water to wick into the planks and cause delamination? So now they ask for 2" gap and primed ends. I do wonder why.
As for the no caulk at factory butt joints, I think it works great. I've had more problems with guys leaving too small a gap and not being able to get enough caulk into it. The caulk shrinks and then there is a gap.
Tar paper joint backers, butt ends tight, a good paint job covers over the joint.
it's supposed to look like clapboards......
if they're worried about delamination, then they have more problems than we can imagine...it's not about delamination...it's about some stupid installation instructions
all joints have to be caulked to look right with a paint job
so if the problem is an incorrect caulk gap...fix that...don't tell me to not caulk it
and.... FC is supposed to superior to cedar in weathering properties, we keep ALL siding 3/4 off horizontal surfaces and roofing
so the 2" is beyond dumbMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Mongo about summed it up assuming it is wood. Blind and face nailing or nailing through both overlapping pieces will result in an eventual split fest in my climate.
true on wood , dont think the hardie does that though.
For sure wood and fiber cement have different habits. For fibercement I always look to the manufacturers recommendations, it will vary some between brands..