I’m planning to start putting up crown in my house in a few days. I’ve read what I could and still have one question. The crown molding we bought is from a millwork. I don’t have it in front of me, but it is around 7″ and covers 5″ of the wall and 5″ of the ceiling. Do I need to add nailer? If so, I’ve seen plywood backing in Craig Savage’s ‘Trim Carpentry Techniques’ and I’ve seen others using ripped 2×3 or 2×4’s. Which would you recommend? I assume I’ll only need it on the walls running parallel to the ceiling joists, correct?
Thanks
Dave
Replies
I like the ply because it should be more stable than solid wood. A litle panel adhesive will greatly improve its performance.
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
Go with the ply as unless you measure carefully, the rippped 2x could keep the mouling from setting flush against the wall if the wall has any undulations.
Mike
Would you only bother to put up the plywood nailer on the walls running with the joints or would I end up with better nailing doing it on all the walls? The studs are all 16" on center. I assume making the plywood backers 20" long and putting them on every other set of studs should be plenty of nailer, correct?
Thanks,
Dave
It certainly can make life easier when you're installing the crown if you don't have to worry about nail placement; that can be a blessing when you're working with inexperienced helpers. But there are no savings: the time you save on the crown all goes into installing the nailer.
e.g. it takes a LOT more time to install a nailer that's a continuous positive stop (i.e. the crown is in full contact with the nailer) than where the nailer is a series of blocks and or there will be a small void between the nailer and the crown..
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
Well, I see the size of that crown and think "square drive trim head screws" not "nails." But you guys do whatever you think best ...
T. Jeffery Clarke
Quidvis Recte Factum Quamvis Humile Praeclarum
Edited 6/21/2002 3:14:19 PM ET by Jeff Clarke
I have questions.
First most crown does not sit at a 45 degree angle are you postitve of the angle?
Second do you have a 16" or sliding compound miter saw that will cut a crown that large?
Third why do you need a backer?
I'd like to know what the "plywood backing" technique is. I've used ripped stock before and always figure it smaller that the back of the crown so it won't interfere. But plywood backing? Is there a site I can see this technique on?
I find I only use the nailers when I'm parallel to the joists and sometimes near the ends. It's a bummer when you need to pull a cope joint up tight and the crown prevents you from reaching the corner stud.
As for 45 degree crown, it's not that uncommon. I just put some up last week.
Alright ...You made me get ot the WM catalog to see and out of 13 standard profiles one is 45 degree. The wm67 (2 1/2")which I can say I have never installed (no wonder it looks nasty) .
Sooooo. I stand by the statement most crown is not a 45 degree!
Here's hoping the 45 degree looks good cause most of what you've seen ain't.
I guess I'm used to working with our local millworks which produce various historic and other not-so-common mouldings. Yes 38 degree is most of what you see out there. The 45 degree looks fine where I've used it.
If the Crown is stain grade, this is what I do:
Using a utility knife or drywall saw (a knife is safer in case you have romex in the stud cavities), I cut out a section of the drywall sufficiently wide enough to provide a good nailing base. I then attach some 1/2" plywood to the studs.
I also rip a triangle of 1x4 material at an angle to replicate the angle of the crown, usually 45 degrees. This is attached with brads to the plywood nailer.
Using a stud finder, I mark all ceiling joists lightly with a pencil.
I attach the crown to the wall. The triangle will hold the piece at the proper angle while you and a helper hold the two ends. I tack it in place at the ends to the nailer, and work towards the center. Once it is in place, I'll go back and shoot some casing nails through the crown into the joists.
Erase the pencil marks and cope the pieces for the other wall.
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1927
I'm having trouble understanding how your method works on the sides of the room where you're working parallel to the ceiling joists. Usually you have a "rim" that serves as a nailer for the ceiling drywall, and if you cut the drywall back from that, you lose the support for it.
The few times I've done this, I just rip the ply square on one edge and bevel the front at the same angle as the crown (just a tad narrower than the crown needs to fit), run a bead of construction adhesive on the front edge of the nailer, put it right on the ceiling drywall, and then attach the back to the "rim"/plate with 2.5" spiral finishing nails (15 guage if a nailer is handy). If I'm working alone, I put up the nailing strip in 4' lengths to make it easier. I don't do the wall nailer if there're 16" OC studs because it's time spent with little return.
.
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
Edited 6/22/2002 3:21:52 AM ET by Phill Giles