Replies

1. 
   dIrishInMe | Aug 25, 2003 07:19pm | #1

   One way is to apply blue masking tape, do your caulking, and then pull the tape (bofore caulk dries).

   Matt
1. 
   scoby | Aug 26, 2003 01:00am | #2

   Dirishinme, Thanks for your reply. Will the tape pull off the silicone or leave a jagged edge?

   Scoby 

2. 
   hasbeen | Aug 26, 2003 03:30am | #3

   Another way is to use a caulk tool.  The one I have is a little square thing that you slide along to remove excess caulk or silicon.

   Any jackass can kick down a barn, but it takes a carpenter to build one.

3. 
   poorsh | Aug 26, 2003 04:27am | #4

   Hi scoby

   Used this with good results. I first put masking tape around the tub, then along the walls. Fill the tub with water (reno, not new construction). and run a bead of mildew resistant silicone caulk around the tub. Get a plastic tub of water to keep your finger wet and squeegee it to form a bead. Pull off the tape and admire.

   Mac

1. 
   MarkH128 | Aug 26, 2003 04:37am | #5

   Does filling the tub really do anything? I have never seen a tub move even a minute amount from being filled up. I suppose one could, but then it may be attached to rot instead of something more substantial. It seems a waste of time and water to me, but I hear of people doing that on the home shows etc.

1. 
   poorsh | Aug 26, 2003 04:48am | #6

   Hi add water and 400 pound lovey dovey's and it will move.

   Mac

1. 
   MarkH128 | Aug 26, 2003 04:54am | #7

   I only have 210 pound lovey dovey's. Is that enough?

1. 
   poorsh | Aug 26, 2003 05:01am | #8

   I was adding X and Y chromosomes!

2. 
   MarkH128 | Aug 26, 2003 05:17am | #9

   Then I would probably chuck the caulk gun and fugedabout it!

2. 
   MrPita2 | Aug 27, 2003 06:03am | #10

   I can speak from personal experience, yes, adding the water helps. 

   First time I caulked our tub, I did not add water.  (Tub used 99% for showers, not baths.)  After ~2 years, I had to rip out & replace the ceiling below due to water damage.  I was certain the water was from a drain leak; only leaked when I (230# +) used the shower, DW (100#) had no problem.  Just enough extra pounds to move tub.  Leak was coming from tile/tub joint; no "tile flange" apparent on tub rim.  Caulked again with water in tub, now no problems.  (Leave water in tub until caulk cures.)

   Also, the tape leaves a nice, straight edge.  Though it will be a more distinct edge, rather than "fading" away to nothing as when no tape is used.If everything seems to be going well, you've obviously overlooked something.

1. 
   AJinNZ | Aug 27, 2003 10:11am | #11

   I do bathroom remodels on a regular basis. The method I use is........Make sure the tile/bath junction is clean, REALLY clean. Even on a new bathroom I give it a wipe with an Ados product "solvent N" to remove any dust,grease,old silicone residue etc.

   I apply a bead of silicone with the tip of the nozzle cut as small as possible and on a slight angle. I dont bother with tape on 90 deg. angles unless it is white sealant against a black material for example.

   Using a disposable latex glove ( no bare fingers cos it pushes bacteria and mould spores into the sealant, making it go black later ) I push my finger into the corner just enough to contact the bead and run it along the joint from one end to the other. this smoothes it out and pushes it right into every little gap. Repeat on any bits that didnt get contacted.

   The result is a fine bead that has a feathered edge. If using tape I do the exact same, then immediately peel off the tape. If the sealant was applied too thick there will be a noticable "edge". 

   Wood Hoon

1. 
   gbwood | Aug 27, 2003 04:16pm | #12

   tip I learned from a glazer- when using silicone, lightly spray windex after laying your bead & it will tool without the silicone mess