Hi Everyone,
I am a homeowner looking for advice. I am remodeling a bathroom in our home.
I will be removing some plastic tile from the sheet rock. (Installed by the previous owners) I anticipate that a lot of the paper on the sheetrock be damage when removing the tile. There is about 70 square feet. This is NOT within the tub/shower area. What is the best way to repair the sheetrock? Skim coat of mud? Remove and replace? Is there a product (some type of wall paper) that can be applied to the wall? I plan on painting the wall, no tile, no wallpaper.
I am also removing what looks like fiberglass surrounding the tub. I plan to install 6 X 6″ tile. How wide should my grout lines be? 3/16, 1/8″?
The house is 40 years old. Everything is still square and level. (Except the owner may be half a bubble off)
Thanks,
Bill
Replies
If you can minimize the damage to the sheetrock, cut down and/or remove as much of the fuzzy paper stuff left over........you can spray it with laquer or poly then start a process of skim coating it using SETTING type compound such as Durabond or East Sand, NOT regular drywall compound which will probably raise the raw paper again.
I might just pull it all down and replace it. Sheetrock is cheap.
That was a run on sentence.
As for the tile they may have spacers whick will likely be a fairly tight joint like less than an 1/8 or so. Unsanded grout. Or if no spacers I would say 1/8 to 1/4 depending on the consistency of sixing and squareness.
I'm thinking by now you are considering hireing it done. Not a bad idea.
Not hard to do, but real easy to make a big mess out of.
Once the plastic tiles are off, prime the sheetrock with an oil-base primer, then skim coat as needed. Like Eric said, use a setting compound. EZSand is a better choice than DuraBond, since it can be sanded fairly easily. You can use regular joint compound, but it takes longer to dry. It might take a couple of coats to gets things fairly smooth.
Then sand everything, and paint as desired.
As far as grout spacing, personally I think smaller is better. But you may want to lay out some tiles and see what looks good to you. 1/8" or 3/16" are both fairly narrow.
What are you installing the tile on? Cement board, I hope.
Once the plastic tiles are off, prime the sheetrock with an oil-base primer...
For a minute there, I thought I was reading my own post :-)
Spray can of laquer or poly is faster, cleaner and dries fast.
I use if for smaller stuff.
This poster I think I would cut it out.
I sometimes use BIN spray for small repairs, but I'm thinking this guy is going to have a pretty big area to skim.
Great minds, etc.
If the damage isn't too great and your skim-coating skills are ok, then that would be the way to go. I often do that instead of hauling in new sheets of drywall just to save time. Keep in mind that once new drywall is installed, it's much easier to get a good finish than it is with skim-coating.
Before skimming, prime the wall with an oil-based primer and let it dry thoroughly. Sand off any loose paper and skim-coat. Before painting, prime again with an oil-based primer.
There is a "wallpaper" called liner paper that is used to even out imperfections in walls and it might be useful for plaster, but for drywall, it would be easier to simply replace it.
Grout spacing is subjective, but for 6X6 tiles, 3/16 looks better to me.
Strip to the studs.
That way you save time and get a better job.
You can upgrade insulation if needed. You can get a proper substrate like Hardie board behind the bath tiles. You save the frustration of dealing with rough gouged unstable old sheetrock
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Piffin is right. Just gut it down to the studs and start fresh. It will go easier and you'll have a nicer result.
If you try to go the minimal demo route, you'll find more damage than you anticipated and you'll probably end up gutting it anyway. Trust me, been there, done that.
I'm another one for gutting.... mostly.
If the upper walls are in good condition, there is no need in taking down and having to re-tape all those 3-way corners (wall/wall/ceiling). Just cut through the drywall along the top edge of the wall tile and around the tub surround with a utility knife, and replace only that drywall.
In the tub area use a waterproof substrate, such as Durock or Hardie Board, in the shower area, and greenboard for the rest.
I know I'm going to get some flack for saying not to demo the whole thing, but these guys here have to keep in mind you are not a professional. Taping those 3-way corners is an aquired skill and a lot more work, which will reap no real benefit.
Also, while the wall is open, you should make sure the shower valve and spout are secure and the framing around it is solid. It's movement of those parts that causes the water damage I'm so often called on to repair.
You'll have more questions for sure, and we're here for ya. =)~ Ted W ~
Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netSee my work - TedsCarpentry.com
Six of one, square root of 36 of the other. You may have more of a clue once the tile is off.
If you skim, do as the others say and prime with an oil or alcohol based primer, to bind the paper fibers.
I recently did a skim job (I'm a DIYer with limited plaster skills) first using a notched trowel to meter out the mud, then smoothing that over. Made it a lot easier to get a uniform coat.
...first using a notched trowel to meter out the mud, then smoothing that over.
That's just brilliant. I never thought of doing that even though I've done a fair bit of skim-coating. And I wasn't very good on my first few jobs. By now, I think that technique might take me more time, but it still seems like a really good idea.
In most of the cases where I've removed the plastic tile I have been left with a hard brittle tan colored adhesive. This sits proud of the backer a strong 1/8th and is grooved by the trowel application. It don't scrape off!
You can skim over this if you've a mind to. I would use Durabond for at least the first coat.
Unless there's a viable reason, you'd be better off removing the drywall and starting over. Skimming this old adhesive is time consuming.
You be the judge.
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In most of the cases where I've removed the plastic tile I have been left with a hard brittle tan colored adhesive.
In ALL cases for me, an I've seen a lot of it. Also, I've never seen it over drywall. Usually over wood lath plaster, but OP said the house is 40 years old. Plaster lath plaster probably.
Either way, you're rignt, it does not come off. ~ Ted W ~
Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netSee my work - TedsCarpentry.com
Ted,
I was going to say all.
But you know how some are pretty picayune about claims such as those.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
But you know how some are pretty picayune about claims such as those.
Yeah, but that's never stopped me before. Note that the only time I don't get a lot of flack about so called non-professional methods is when I mention I'll probably receive it. Works every time! =)~ Ted W ~
Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netSee my work - TedsCarpentry.com
Rip the drywall off!!!!!
As we speak, doing the same!! Brown, tan brittle #### left on wall, get rid of it!
In my case it was a plastered wall on the lower half, cut it out and replaced with 3/4" ply. I am going to wainscote that area with bead board and wanted a smooth/solid area to glue/nail to!!
Thanks for all of your help. I will rip out the old drywall and start fresh.
Good luck,
Bill
A wise decission indeed. Have Fun! =)~ Ted W ~
Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netSee my work - TedsCarpentry.com
I'm curious why everyone is up for a labor intensive process of multiple coats of mud and paint, or redoing the drywall... what about just covering the existing with another layer of drywall instead?
Glue and screw a 1/4" sheet to the existing drywall and voila you have new drywall again.
Tu stultus esRebuilding my home in Cypress, CAAlso a CRX fanatic!
Look, just send me to my drawer. This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.
Well, a lot of people wouldn't want to add another 1/4" thickness. And when we redid our kitchen backsplash there was the problem that the old tile ran right up to the bottom of the cabinets, and it would have been difficult to splice in new drywall with the cabinets (and old countertop) in place.I agree that if you're doing an uncomplicated tub surround, say, it's easier to just tear out and redo. But things are rarely that uncomplicated.
The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
The first thing that comes to mind is the toilet against the wall. If it's tight now, as it should be, there is no room for a layer of drywall. Another reason is the trim would end up slightly burried, making it look thin and cheap.
Drywall veneer has it's place. In fact, I just hung some 1/4" on a kitchen ceiling the other day. But I'm reluctant to use it wherever it will meet door and window casings, or baseboard.~ Ted W ~
Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netSee my work - TedsCarpentry.com
I don't think toilet against the wall is standard on newer toilets. Both my American Standard and TOTO leave at least an inch back there.
I do see what you mean by the trim. However, compared to a COMPLETE drywall tearout and replace, it might be easier to rip a 1/4" reveal for the door frame and pull and reuse the existing trim.
Tu stultus esRebuilding my home in Cypress, CAAlso a CRX fanatic!
Look, just send me to my drawer. This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.
I do see what you mean by the trim. However, compared to a COMPLETE drywall tearout and replace, it might be easier to rip a 1/4" reveal for the door frame and pull and reuse the existing trim.
I've done that with 1/2" a few times, or extending the jambs. Baseboards also have to be pulled, then cut shorter in length due to the slightly smaller room dimensions. If I did it in OP's situation, I wouldn't use 1/4" because of the thickness of the thickness of the tile, will push the drywall out. 1/2" drywall will tend to span the difference a little better.
I still see it as a "quick fix", and not what I would consider a better quality job, but it is an option. I'm still for tearing out the tiled area and getting the drywall to the studs. It's not that much more work than what you're describing, an extra 1/2 day at the most, I would guess.~ Ted W ~
Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netSee my work - TedsCarpentry.com
With standard 6x6 tile, you can really shrink those grout lines down to 1/16". In fact, alot of tiles now have self spacers molded on as ears that will keep them at 1/16"
Tu stultus es
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Look, just send me to my drawer. This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.