I need to replace some second floor windows overlooking the NJ beach in a rental home. I would like to increase the length of the windows so that the come down closer to the floor for more of a view. I believe they are called cottage windows (lower sash is larger than the top). I am concerned about child safety when the lower sash is open.
One idea is to screw the bottom double-hung sash closed leaving only to top one operable.
Another idea is child bars, but that may not be very pleasing to the eye.
Any other thoughts or ideas?
thanks
Replies
How close to the floor? Lower than a specific distance, you'll need a tempered lower, and maybe upper sash $$$.
But, our nighbor had the same situation in an old house, and guarded the bottom 18" of each low window with three narrow brass tubes, mounted in nice brass curtain rod mounts with curtain rod finials on the ends. (Note: they DID NOT use curtain rods for the barrier - but a heavy-walled brass tube of the same diameter).
Maybe the smaller square cross-section white bathroom grab bars?
Screwing the sashes shut might work, especially if you used tamperproof screws for liability safety. How about just limiting the bottom sash to opening 6-8"? the ventilation would be nice
Chicken wire?
Forrest
I am eyeballing the window will be about 14-18 inches off the floor. The extra cost for the tempered glass will be worth the expense. I inquired at the town building dept and was told that I do NOT need a permit as the homeowner if I am installing the same size window. I believe they meant width. Do you think I would technically require a permit if I am going to lower the sill? The sides and header will remain as is. McDesign, the "custom" safety bar idea is good thought. I am going to explore that but I will hold off of the chicken wire idea... may I will try seagull wire. thanks.
Is this a room that needs to have egress windows? If so, screwing them shut would negate the egress capability. And as Forrest says, closer than 18" to the floor means tempered glass, but last time that came up for me it was OK to just do the lower sash tempered, not the whole window. Added about 200 dollars per window.
Steve
The room has 2 other window suitable for egress on a separate wall. A third wall has sliding doors to a deck.
Rather than blocking the window entirely closed, you could install blocks that limit it's opening to about 5".
The glass does need to be safety glass, in any event.
Yes. What you want to do is illegal in NJ under the IRC 2006 NJE (exceptions as noted).
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Jeff
Edited 11/10/2008 9:03 am ET by Jeff_Clarke
hmmm, interesting. Thank you. So I have a few limited choices... 1- I can install an approved window guard (I doubt that)2- or a stationary, tempered pane below the existing DHs will work. I think this falls within the codes provided3- or a 4-inch max opening.4- leave it as is. I think #2 is the way to go for my situation.
I think #2 is the way to go for my situation.
I do too.
Jeff
To Jeff and others,
This is my first time using this site. It was very helpful. Thank you for your input and sharing your expertise.
- Glen O
Our pleasure -
Jeff
Your original thought was to improve on the view, any kind of bars grills etc defeat that objective.