Got a great deal on a load of cherry from a wholesaler I know. Filled my truck with kiln dried 4/4 to 1 1/8 thick x 6′ in varying widths. After planing I should have 3/4″ to 7/8″. I want to use it as trim for interior doors, but I need a strategy for the length. I could join pieces for the length I need, but maybe there are other good ideas out there involving decorative medallions, rosettes, etc. Any great ideas on how to turn the too-short boards into an advantage (aside from the relief of handling 6′ boards instead of the 14′ oak ones I wrestled recently)?
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With a good sized plinth block maybe you could work some magic. Good luck with that.
Dustin
If ya can`t use it for what ya need to....is it really such a "great deal"?
Sorry....someone hadda say it. : )
Plynth was exactly what I had in mind.....an 8" (+,-) tall block won`t be out of place with a basemoulding of even decent height.
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I got it to get it! Sheesh, if anyone understands that concept, it'd be youse guys!I went to pick up the 200 bf he was donating to a worthy cause and on a whim I asked about cherry without a real purpose in mind. Or with several purposes. 6' is all he had, so I took it for a price I couldn't refuse.Now I've decided to do trim with it, so...To complicate matters, and since you mentioned base, I don't use base. :) All floors are cut under the walls and the plaster run to a clean edge. I like the non-ornate minimalist look. But the door frames need a little work just be/c the frame-to-wall connection didn't come out as clean as I'd hoped and I wanna clean it up. In some places you can see a bit of the shim, or a little gap, etc. So I'm trying to find a moulding profile that won't look cheap or mismatched...don't wanna go with something wide be/c there'll be no base to balance it...prefer to find something artistic but that won't be goofy.Just one of those things I let go and let go and now gotta deal with...
So, are the door jambs only 6 ft high? Seems like you're still a little short.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Jambs are normal for pre-hung 3-0 x 6-8 six-panel wood doors.
Surprised Andy didn't come up with it immedietly.
Cloud, what you will create is say, 5' long small trim say, 2 3/4" wide and 1/2" thick.
Mount that flush to the floor and up to a level height. The upper vertical piece will be about 3 1/4" wide, 3/4" thick. (trim grows from the floor in steps). At the intersection, mortise out 1/4" to the profile of the smaller lower piece so that the joint is hidden. (slides into).
For the headpiece I would make a 4 part headpiece. Part 1 is the main part of the headpiece, (can contain a slight curve).
Part two will be a small spacer between the headpiece and the nailer (part 3) which will fasten in to the top of the casings. To keep it minimalist the headpiece and part 3 will be in the same plane, (1/4" proud of the upper casing). How you do this is by adding a 1/4" spacer behind the headpiece. (ply will work-since it is not seen). Part 2 will be about 3/16 x 1/2 x length.
Are you following? The sides of the casings don't have to be one piece... the headpiece can be pieced and not noticed. Where trim changes size a long bevel will make the transition graceful. Shadow reveals will add interest without making it too busy.
Give a call if you need more elaboration, but a little creativity will go a long way-and I know you have that!
L
GardenStructure.com~Build for the Art of it!
Edited 4/1/2005 3:38 pm ET by Lawrence
What you said, & who says you can't use plinth blocks without baseboard...
Hey, shadow bead everything & make something else nice from the cherry...
If your gonna be minimalist, be all the way minimalist...
Sell it, and use the proceeds to buy what you need?Andy Engel
Senior editor, Fine Woodworking magazine
Other people can talk about how to expand the destiny of mankind. I just want to talk about how to fix a motorcycle. I think that what I have to say has more lasting value. --Robert M. Pirsig
Round houses.....no baseboard......you got some nerve pal!
I is gonna have to think a bit harder before offering up any other suggestions...but I doubt you`ll be satisfied with the results of joining the boards to reach desired lengths.
On the other hand....mebbe you could turn the heat up....REAL high, for a couple weeks, and shrink the doors?
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What about a large rectangle at the top. Say if your trim is 3" then make it about 12" by 6" run vertical at the top of each side.
It would project maybe 1-2" about the top.
Then starting about 6" down it would stair step, say in 1/2 by 1/2" until it was 3 1/2 and then vertical casing.
It would have a "sorta" SW (Azetec) look.
If it would be my house I would do a similar, but use fewer, but longer steps and make then s-curves. Also round all of the edged and make the block 1/8" proud of the casing. Give it a Greene&Greene A&C look.