First off, sorry for the urgency…hope someone catches this tonight. Regardless, I got back from my honeymoon on Wednesday and had a sweet job fall into my lap. Seems that my buddy’s father in law had to fire a GC he was working with for a multitude of reasons I won’t get into right now. Money is good and the job looks fun. Lots of different stuff left to do.
The dismissed GC allowed things to fall horribly behind schedule, so tomorrow morning I have to begin installing clear pine 1X10 T&G flooring. It’s going in a big 40×40 farm stand. The floor system consists of 16″ I joists (with a three and a half inch flange) 40 footers sitting on a piece of steel midspan, on 12″ centers. The floor sheathing is just 1/2 pine ply which seemed a little light to me, but with the super wide flanges on 12″ centers it actually feels pretty solid.
I’ve never installed floor boards this large. What is the best way to fasten? Should I glue? Tar paper underneath? Use a cleat nailer? Screw and plug em? Face nail em? I’m afraid that just using a cleat nailer on such a wide board won’t be nearly sufficient. I
Unfortunatly this is the only part of the job I’m unfamiliar with and it has to be done first because of scheduling. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
Brian
Replies
dieselpig--construction adhesive and screws are the way I'd go. Drill and countersink the screws, and then plug the holes. I agree, 1/2" seems a little light. Any way to add another layer of 3/8" or 1/2" before starting the pine?
Another thought- what's the moisture content of the floor? You'll have problems down the road if the pine is not acclimated to the building.
Boards that wide at going to move - a LOT. I have 5 1/2" (1x6) wide pine boards for flooring; they gap wide in winter and close up tight in summer in my non-air-conditioned house. When you screw each board down, you'll have to take that into account by elongating each screw hole. I wouldn't try to glue it down - it won't keep the boards from moving, and it would make it next to impossible to replace a damaged spot.
I bet it'll look phenomenal, though. Post pics when you've got some in!
did
Blah, yada, whatever, Hi how are you today
Here is a link to the flooring manufacture association on wide plank flooring installation.
http://www.nofma.org/installation4.htm
A big thanks to all who replied...got some good info. With that and the three page artice I just found on my JLCD-ROM I'm feeling pretty confident. Gonna drill, countersink and plug the whole thing...a layer of tar paper, no adhesive, and a 3/8" gap around the whole perimeter. Gonna be fun!
Get some good knee pads................."Rather be a hammer than a nail"
Bob
seen a floor like that. then a bunch of guys with scrapers came in and scraped concave gouges in it randomly not missing any spots. looked like the boards were cut with an adz. reel nice.
Down here that's called a "hand scraped" floor. My client is having about 1200 sf of it installed as part of the renovation. Due to the concrete slab and not wanting to raise the floor any more than necessary, we will be using 5/8" engineered oak. The installer estimated a week to install it, then 2 weeks to scrape it. Takes one worker all day to scrape 100 sf of floor. Then they lightly sand (for splinters) and apply the finish. Looking at $15/sf and the end result has the appearance of a stable (barn) floor.
The floor has not been done yet, so my comments are based on wht the installer has told me. He says they use various paint scrapers, and work in all directions...across the grain, with the grain, and against it.
Do it right, or do it twice.
Edited 10/4/2003 11:51:50 PM ET by ELCID72
Edited 10/4/2003 11:53:21 PM ET by ELCID72