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I am doing a bid for a client that I do a lot of work for. I need some suggestions about a drain hookup for a washing machine.
The washer is being moved from the kitchen into a closet right beside the half bath. I plan on tying into the water supply from the bathroom sink, but I have a question about the drain.
A couple of plumbing contractors looked at this project and told the client that it is no problem hooking the drain line directly into the 1 1/4″ p trap assembly. They say they do it all the time. My question is “can this be done, and if so, where would I find the necessary plumbing connections for this” My local plumbing supplier said he didn’t have anything like this, nor did he know where to get such a critter.
I had intended on tying into the 2″ drain in the wall that feeds the bath and kitchen. If I could possibly tie into the 1 1/4″ p trap assembly where it goes into the wall, where would I find a fitting (T fitting) that would allow me to do this?
Please take a look at the picture, and let me know if tying into the p trap is feasible, practical, and a good idea.
Thanks
James DuHamel
Replies
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Boy, that sure looks familiar. I'll bet that goes into a lead pipe in the wall to a brass sleeve oakumed and leaded to a cast iron tee. (But I could be wrong).
I don't believe you have enough room to put in a dishwasher adapter.
Point of clarification: Is this for a dishwasher or a clothes washer? Either one would need a p-trap.
If for a clothes washer, if you can, I would open the wall, put in a recessed valve and drain box and plumb the washer drain down as far as you can, with a minimum of 1 1/2 pvc, put in a p-trap and then tie in low to the vertical portion of the existing drain line with a sanitary tee and a couple of hubless connectors.
If it is a dishwasher, forget the valve box but bring in the drain line the same way but at the top of the drain reduce the pipe to 1/2 CPVC and you can slip the end of the dishwasher drain hose over that and use a small diameter stainless clamp that usually comes with the hose. Your venting will be from the original bathroom sink arrangement, which is good.
*Hey Ralph,I posted this in the Construction Techniques folder, and have no idea how or why it ended up here in the business section. This place is getting weird. Also, my screen says there are 3 messages, and yours is number 3. Problem is, your's is the only message showing. Oh well...The pipe going into the wall is 1 1/4" chrome, tying into a 1 1/2" cast iron pipe with a bib type adapter. We are talking about a clothes washer, and yes, I will be installing a recessed mounting box, cut off valves, supply lines, and drain line with a p trap. I just need to know if they make a connector that will allow me to tie the new pvc drain into the existing p trap assembly for the sink. I have never heard of such, cannot find such a thing, and am running out of leads. I had planned on opening up the wall and tying into the cast iron drain line, but these two separate plumbing contractors told the client that it could easily be tied into the existing p trap. I am just wondering if I am missing something, or these guys were feeding her a line.Thanks for the info and the response.James DuHamel
*James,This is the dishwasher drain adapter I think they are talking about - 1 1/2 x 8" - could be shortened to about 5". The little stub will accept a 7/8" ID hose. There is really no room under a lavatory for this item. There is no room for any type of extra fitting before the trap.There are, or used to be, double inlet adapters, primarily used when there are two sinks on opposite sides of the same wall. But in order to use that you would have to pull the current adapter from the cast iron and reoakum and lead in the new in its place. (Or use a hubless connector after sawing off the original pipe at the adapter).
*I foresee alot of clog problem with tying a clothes washer into such a small drain. Personally, I don't like a washer that doesn't empty into a utility tub first. Then, with a lint trap(pantyhose!) on the output end. Lotsa crap gets put out by a washer. And when it clogs the 1 1/2 p-trap of a utility tub, the only thing stopped up is the tub! Something to think about. Jeff
*Hey Ralph,Actually, this is more in line with the fitting they are talking about. Biggest problem is the fact that it is generally designed for a kitchen sink drain system, and is therefore 1 1/2" diameter. It will work with this particular bathroom sink drain assembly (1 1/4") provided I take out the chrome plated brass drain pipes, and use pvc. It is pretty easy to adapt to pvc, but I do not like using pvc. It just seems too cheap to me, and I have had lots of problems in the past when working with pvc p trap and drain assemblies. I almost always change them out to heavy chrome plated brass. While I normally use a very thick walled chrome plated brass, I cannot find any adapters from 1 1/2" to 1 1/4" for this purpose.I am not sure I would have enough room to install this rig anyway, so my only recourse may very well be to hook directly into the drain line in the wall. It is 1 1/2" cast iron, and I have the fittings necessary for that. Ripping out the wall will add considerable cost to the job, though. This client is on a tight budget, and I am trying to help her out as best I can. I do, however, draw the line when it comes to doing low quality work, especially plumbing. Low quality plumbing work spells disaster, and call backs.I sure was hoping someone else had run into this before, and had an idea about where to get the 1 1/4" fitting I would need.Thanks for the info. It is much appreciated.James DuHamel
*FWIW, I found a photo of the dual drain from a job I did last year.The type of DISHWASHER drain adapter I previously scanned is available in chrome. And it is a little shorter.But, even if you were able to put in an 1 1/4 fitting ahead of the trap under the sink I think your customer would be looking at a geyser in the lavatory every time the washer pumped out. Clothes washers have a more forceful and higher volume of water to move than dishwashers. Jeff's idea of having a utility sink to handle the overflow has merit. Although our own washer is in the garage we prevented an overflow simply because the washer drain line flows into the utility drain line. A partially clogged line caused the backup, but fortunately into the big utility tub.
*This thread is a few days old, but I hope you're still checking...My experience is that some washing machines discharge water at a much higher rate than others. If you happen to have one of the ones that throws out a lot of water in a hurry, a 1-1/4 trap won't carry it and you'll have a flooded room. You might test a couple different trap sizes (and standpipe lengths) outside to see how they behave with your machine. Also, what if you buy a new machine in a few years...Best go with a two inch trap if you can, or discharge into a laundry tub and let that drain at it's own pace into the 1-1/4 trap.
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I am doing a bid for a client that I do a lot of work for. I need some suggestions about a drain hookup for a washing machine.
The washer is being moved from the kitchen into a closet right beside the half bath. I plan on tying into the water supply from the bathroom sink, but I have a question about the drain.
A couple of plumbing contractors looked at this project and told the client that it is no problem hooking the drain line directly into the 1 1/4" p trap assembly. They say they do it all the time. My question is "can this be done, and if so, where would I find the necessary plumbing connections for this" My local plumbing supplier said he didn't have anything like this, nor did he know where to get such a critter.
I had intended on tying into the 2" drain in the wall that feeds the bath and kitchen. If I could possibly tie into the 1 1/4" p trap assembly where it goes into the wall, where would I find a fitting (T fitting) that would allow me to do this?
Please take a look at the picture, and let me know if tying into the p trap is feasible, practical, and a good idea.
Thanks
James DuHamel