I have a customer who would like to install new brickmold around his windows and doors. He went to a reputable lumber yard in my area and they showed him some new stuff that they are carrying called Marley Cellular Vinyl PVC – Never Rot. I am not familiar with this product so I called the company and they said that it is best installed using 8d galv. finish nails (8″ on center) or glue. Some other local contractors are using this product and using trim nailers, but I would be afraid of future warping problems using this method. Does anyone have any experience with this product? What are the best installation methods and what can be used to fill nail holes and corners ect.? Is this a good quality material or should I specify using Azek or another brand? This stuff is very competitive with wood as far as pricing goes and since the customer just wants it left white painting shouldn’t be an issue. Thanks for any input.
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PVC trim -- I like the stuff. Cuts like wood, nails like wood, paints easier than wood.
The use of 8penny nails vesus "trim nails" from a gun is probably not much difference. The gunned nails might be 15 or 18ga, but are most likely 16ga, which is strong enough if its long enough.
...and since the customer just wants it left white painting shouldn't be an issue....
Prime it, then paint it white. If you just leave it bare, the UV from the sun will kill it.
Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.
Abm, we use that stuff all the time and shoot it with 16ga finish nails. If the customer wants it left unpainted, get some good white caulk to fill the nail holes, like OSI. Just make sure you wash your hands before dabbling with the caulk or you'll get dirty streaks on the trim.Jason Pharez Construction
Framing & Exterior Remodeling
I'm not familiar with that particular brand but here are my thoughts based on experience:
>> This stuff is very competitive with wood as far as pricing goes << That surprises me. What we get around here is generally 1.5 to close to 2 times the cost of wood.
>> and since the customer just wants it left white painting shouldn't be an issue. <<
Right... but I assume you are gonna have to caulk the length of each piece to the door frame and then to the siding, brick, or whatever to provide a weatherproof installation, so differences in the aged color of the caulk VS the plastic may not give a great look.
Really the only down side to stuff is that the miter and butt joints will open and close with seasonal temp changes. This can be greatly reduced by using PVC glue at these spots. If you intend not to paint, be sure and use PVC glue that is specifically intended for this type of application as regular PVC glue discolors. Azek glue is the only brand I'm aware of that is specifically for PVC trim - it is water based, dries slower to give you more working time, and stays clear. Don't think that just because it is water based it is a mild to work with product. It does not clean up with water, and it burns when it gets on your skin. I don't know though if it is compatible with the product you are proposing to use.
Thanks for all of the responses, I appreciate your input. As for the pricing they are getting about $1.05 per foot for pre primed wood and about $1.20 per foot for this brand of PVC at my local yard, not bad at all in my opinion.... if it is a quality product. As for caulking you are correct. I'm planning on using a high quality 100% acrylic latex and then staining it the color of the existing cedar siding (already stained with a Cabot solid color stain) and filling the nail holes with it as well in case it ever requires painting in the future.