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I heard of a cure for fixing uneven floors in preparation for a floating floor. I was told that a thin mix of floor leveling compound can be poured immediately prior to laying the board(s) in the problem area. I was told that after the prep work was done on an old house reno there were still a few spots that showed hollow areas that allowed the floor to dip. So they lifted that board and tried the fix and apparently it worked. Any body else hear of something like this?
I am getting ready to floor an area of an old house and I know from experience, limited as it may be, that even after hours of trying to get the existing area on the same plane I will no doubt encounter at least one area the will want to roll off in the wrong manner.
I am thinking of either a floating floor, or one of those ones that are made of 5/16″ prefinished hardwood, that are either stapled or glued.
Anybody care to give an opinion as to which is the better way to go for an old house reno? I would like to end up with a prefinished floor.
The strip flooring I am looking at is the Bruce: Natural Reflections 2 1/4″ strip. No thoughts as to what particular floating floor catches my eye yet.
Thanks,
John
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Some floor guys will put dry sand under that floating floor, on top of the pad. Works now, don't know about later. I would be warry of wet leveler as you lay the floor. As to the other, real wood is best. Glue down, you'll probably be wanting to underlay. Nail down, you would need rosin paper or bldg felt between the subfloor/finish. All of em have their pluses and minuses. Best of luck.
*John,I've laid prefinished floating floors over uneven substrates using the sand method that Calvin mentioned; however, I would probably cover the area with roofing felt first, put down the sand and screed it level then put down the foam pad. I haven't had any problems using this method either on concrete or plywood/wood subfloors.I don't think the glue-down option would be the way to go given your quest for a level surface.As for floating floors, I've had great luck with Boen,Kahrs and Upofloor products.Have fun!John McDonald
*How would one not be afraid of the sand shifting out the edge over time?I guess I am looking for an opinion as to what has the best pluses for a floor that will continue through 3 joining rooms with each one wanting to be on its own plane.So far luck has been, generally, more for, than against, something that has not always been the case during old home renos. I found out that indeed each of the 3 rooms have the supposed same sub floor. Now if I can easily bring them to within reason of the same plane.thanx
*John, Start out with some research. Use taunt string lines, straight edges small pencil marks on walls -- even a cheap water tube level system (from a reference height to which you measure down. Map the entire area (all 3 rooms) based on level from the very high spot to the lowest spot. Fill in areas on your sketch with various colors denoting 1/8" inch differences in elevation. Make your map accurate and to scale.Now simply cut various thicknesses of OSB or plywood to conform to your topo map and nail them down. A couple of random checks with a long level probably wouldn't hurt as you progress.Finally, before you lay down your finished floor, float out your 1/8" edges with floor filler or sand.It's the original detective work and accurate plan that makes the rest a very straightforeward job.Good Building,Jim Malone
*I just got a job to quote...wall to wall in a cave...The fire pit is to be left and trimmed in Mohaghany, but the rest is to be sand leveled faux laminate Oak, glued up over foam.It should be a piece O cake as long as the Tyaranisaurouses are kept at bay by my fiesty long hair cat.near the stream and my cave,BC
*AJ,Now look at ya. You done put down your compass, plumb bob, level and cardboard template to locate and define a missing variable (kind of an important one at that--like leaving out ridge beam offset on a rafter angle layout) in a staircase formula. Now the grey matter is so active that us mortals are only able to try and guess what is lurking near the field and cave and stream besides that cat.Jim
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I heard of a cure for fixing uneven floors in preparation for a floating floor. I was told that a thin mix of floor leveling compound can be poured immediately prior to laying the board(s) in the problem area. I was told that after the prep work was done on an old house reno there were still a few spots that showed hollow areas that allowed the floor to dip. So they lifted that board and tried the fix and apparently it worked. Any body else hear of something like this?
I am getting ready to floor an area of an old house and I know from experience, limited as it may be, that even after hours of trying to get the existing area on the same plane I will no doubt encounter at least one area the will want to roll off in the wrong manner.
I am thinking of either a floating floor, or one of those ones that are made of 5/16" prefinished hardwood, that are either stapled or glued.
Anybody care to give an opinion as to which is the better way to go for an old house reno? I would like to end up with a prefinished floor.
The strip flooring I am looking at is the Bruce: Natural Reflections 2 1/4" strip. No thoughts as to what particular floating floor catches my eye yet.
Thanks,
John