has anyone tried the new kreg jigs , the k-3 , and r-3 , how do they compare to the k-2 kits. and the pocket – rocket? is the r-3 better than the old pocket rocket? any input will help me make my decision. thanks
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The K-3 uses a thumbscrew/pin arrangement to setup for various thicknesses of stock whereas the K-2(000) uses plastic spacers/screws that one needs to keep track of.
K-3 has vac attachement but no support "wings" which is included with the K-2(000)
You can remove the drill guide blocks on both for "free hand" clamping but the K-3 indexing is still superior and the clamp can be attached to the block enabling one hand reseting of the drill guide to stock.
I've combined the best features of both systems on my "fixed" station, K-3 drilling clamp/vac attachement with stop and the support wings of the K-2.
R-3 sets up for various stock thicknesses using a sliding plastic indexing "foot" (a poor man's Incra jig arrangement) not the most robust setup but with care can be very handy.
thanks tom, thats something i never liked about the 2000, too many adaptors to lose and forget how to put them together. when i got ready to use the jigs, i had forgotten how to set it up and had to pull out the instructions. sounds like the k-3 is the one to have for the shop. maybe the r-3 would be good to keep in my truck, just to have the ability to make a quick face frame or screw down something.
thanks for the info. i have some parts from the k-2 that ill put with the k-3.
There's always - http://cgi.ebay.com/Kreg-K3-Master-Pocket-Hole-Jig_W0QQitemZ110217882620QQihZ001QQcategoryZ67242QQtcZphotoQQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Jeff
thanks jeff , for all the info. looks like a good buy.
I've never used the jigs before the K3 but seeing their setup, the K3 is a huge improvement. The adjustments are much faster, more flexible on wood thicknesses and clamp for the bench unit is on the correct side now. Also, with the full kit, you can take it to the wood. Also they made the vice like clamping pliers a little better. Do a search here and at JLC in Gary's forum, everyone agrees the k3 is far better. I would get the K3 full kit, if you don't want to spend that then get the smaller k3 kit. There have been plenty of different free bonus add on's for the k3's at woodcraft, amazon, etc., either an extra screw guide block or a box of screws.
Also, the dust collection does work very well. I only set it up for a decent number of holes but when used it saves you from a pile of chips.
I'm with everyone else. Like DDay, I've only used the K3 but compared to the earlier jigs that I've seen it is a large improvement. I usually use the K3 as a bench setup and have it mounted on a 1' x 3' scrap of veneer ply. I added two extension "wings" ripped from 5/4" stair tread scraps. Add in the dust collection and it becomes an almost permanant fixture in the shop. I don't usually have much use for the clamp-on setup, but the few times that I've used it have worked out well. I don't mind that the jig is mostly plastic either. It has held up very well so far, and let's face it, a K3 shouldn't be something that gets banged around in the back of a pickup on a daily basis.
went to Lowes to buy the $40 kreg, they dont carry it.two ways to screw up concrete 1) concrete driver 2) concrete finisher
Thats odd. All 4 of the local Lowes here have them. Want me to send ya one?Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"
what asle is it on..two ways to screw up concrete 1) concrete driver 2) concrete finisher
In the tool crib area almost dead center , near the back wall. The tablesaws and stuff are in front of a free standing shelf unit, look at the bottom half of that shelf unit with the tables saws behind you. Should be on your lower right.
The kit is in a box about 12" x 8" blue bottom, opaque white top.
Photographic memory comes in handy sometimes..Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"
i saw that plastic white and blue box, I did not look close I thought it was a set of hole saws. It was right next to the indivual hole saws..two ways to screw up concrete 1) concrete driver 2) concrete finisher
Might be on the same gondola. I know the planer knives and kreg screws are there too.
I also think that there is NO clamp in that kit, but I could be wrong..best to check. Them welding vice grips ( like a big C-clamp) work best, and weld a 1.5" washer to one of the pinchers.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"
At my local Lowes, the Kreg stuff is on one the row racks, not the back rack and it is nearest the main ilse..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
That's right BB, looks just like that Lennox kit.The best reward for a job well done is the opportunity to do another.
Photographic memory comes in handy sometimes..
I've got a photographic memory....... but I'm sometimes out of film!!!
Same here. And I am mostly underdeveloped...LOLSpheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"
In the Lowe's near me, the Kreg is in the tool area, on the back wall, but all the way on the right side, near the replacement batteries.
<<Photographic memory comes in handy sometimes..>>I used to have a photographic memory.......But Iris left me, and now I can't focus on anything.
Take the plunge and order the full kit. Worth it. Best price for screws to date has been coastal tool.
Always check setup on some same size scrap to prevent screws getting "to deep".
Edited 1/18/2008 6:28 pm ET by USAnigel
"I don't mind that the jig is mostly plastic either. It has held up very well so far"
This one's held up pretty well.
View Image
See now mine looks cheesy after seeing that one. The point I was making was that it's not something that gets tossed around often. Somewhat like comparing the abuse that my framing nailers might take compared to my pin nailer.
Not a fan of plastic, but in this case I'll make an exception... so far at least.
That metal Kreg jig was purchased long ago (in tool years) and doesn't get used much today because of the convenience and features of the K3 kit that I now use.
thanks for the help
thanks for the info, what do you mean about jlc and garys forum? sorry iam ignorant of these terms.
G,He's referring to JLC's Finish Carpentry Forum:http://forums.jlconline.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=7It's a good bunch of folks over there. - KitTechnique is proof of your seriousness. - Wallace Stevens
It's a good bunch of folks over therethey ran me off from over there, told me I was an idiot and not to come back. I was un welcome..two ways to screw up concrete 1) concrete driver 2) concrete finisher
That might have changed things, I'm an idiot and they still welcome me. The crowd is definitely different. I've heard the electrical forum is a very tough crowd, I just stick with a few of the others and they have been pretty good.
they ran me out of here for telling a guy he was right all the time :>)
well, he is, just ask him, he will tell you, over and over and over...two ways to screw up concrete 1) concrete driver 2) concrete finisher
Brownbagg,I'm really sorry to hear that. My experience has been very positive. I'm not a super active poster, and I lurked for a lot of years before throwing myself in. I hope you'll give it another chance. They can get a bit prickly about some weird stuff (to me anyway).- KitTechnique is proof of your seriousness. - Wallace Stevens
Sorry about that. Someone else gave the link to the JLC forum, Gary is the moderator there, but you can also go to his own site for articles, tips, etc. The one below is on the K2000 from a few years ago. I know in a few threads on the JLC site, he said he like the K3 much better and there is no decision on which to get between the two of them if your in the market now. Check out his other articles though, so really good info in there. He also writes for Fine Homebuilding too.http://www.garymkatz.com/ToolReviews/kreg_pocket_hole_jig.html
thanks for the info.
I recieved an email form woodcraft with this offer in it. http://woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5374&refcode=08IN01RL
I guess it has everything I'll need?
well I finally found it, the blue and white box was holes saws by lennox. the blowes people had no idea what a kreg was. I finally found it three isle over on the bottom below the dremels tools. I got the $39.95 one..two ways to screw up concrete 1) concrete driver 2) concrete finisher
thanks for the info
if you are going to do pocket hole screws on more that one project get the k3 for the 139 bucks it is well worth it. it has the handle up front andd works very well. attach it to a 16x16 board or similiar size of 3/4 birch ply or baltic bircdh and that way you can set it on top of the table use it then take it off.
the smaller one for 40 bucks that you screw to the piece is great for once stuff is put together to add screws. or the clamp one is great for one project. if you are a professional get the k3
thanks for the information.
As an aside. Do you know why the Kreg instructions say you must use a corded drill with their jigs? I can't see what difference it would make.
Wow, that's a new one. I have a couple of the Kreg videos and nothing but battery powered tools in use.
-Norm
Fingers,It's an rpm thing, I believe. Most cordless tools don't spin at the recommended speed. That being said, every one I know uses a cordless most of the time, including me.When I'm home in the shop I use a corded 3/8 Dewalt. It does make a difference, just not enough to worry about slinging cords out on the job.- KitTechnique is proof of your seriousness. - Wallace Stevens
Edited 1/27/2008 9:46 pm by vanderpooch
Suppositly the bits don't cut as well at the slower speed and they wear out earlier..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
called kreg and they said it is indeed a rpm thing. they just want you to get the speed up before drilling hole. in their website videos , you can see cordless drills being used. they said if you drill at a slow speed you could break the drill and they wont last as long.
Speed. Below is from FAQ in Kreg manual. I use my Milwaukee 3/8 corded.
Why do I need to use a 2,000+ rpm drill to make the pocket holes?
What brand do you recommend?
A drill that is rated at 2,000 RPM or above is considered a woodworking drill. RPM’s below
that are normally seen in metal-working drills. The higher the RPM, the cleaner the
hole and the longer the drill bit lasts. A 1,500 RPM drill will do the trick, but you will see
slightly more wear on the bit over time. Most of the major tool manufacturers produce
a drill above 2,000 RPM.