Replies

1. 
   RobertSteele | Oct 25, 2003 10:53pm | #1

   One idea is to plan on removing some brick where you can tie your new rafters...preferably infront of the kingstuds beside the windows(if any) and or at the corners inline with the interior wall. This will allow you to build into the framing with atleast three or four spots .Then you can span a double ridgeboard between these nailed rafters this will give you somewhere to nail other rafters on 16 centers.Be sure any bricks removed are below your plywood line and do replace them after.

1. 
   RichR | Oct 26, 2003 06:37pm | #3

   Thanks for your input.  I should have mentioned that it will be a shed roof on the new porch.  We're you under the impression that it was a gable roof with your suggestions?  As a shed, would you still remove brick in the areas you suggested to tie in a 2x for nailing the rafters?

2. 
   TLJ | Oct 26, 2003 03:44pm | #2

   Is it a shed roof or gable roof? The first is easier to flash than the latter. Either way, you can bolt directly onto the brick to build. The hard part is the flashing. You must remove mortar 1/2" - 3/4" and then embed your counter flashing into new mortar. There may be a good mortar repair caulk that can be used rather than mortar. Use good quality flashing material (e.g., copper) as this is not a project you want to have to redo in a few years. Cement products tend to accelerate the erosion of aluminum.

1. 
   RichR | Oct 26, 2003 06:41pm | #4

   It is a shed roof, on a 3/12.  By bolting directly to the brick to build, please elaborate as to the fasteners, through the brick or the mortar joint, spacing, etc.  Thanks for your recommendations and technique for flashing.

1. 
   TLJ | Oct 26, 2003 09:29pm | #5

   I'm not an engineer, but I'm willing to discuss it with you. Other readers will contribute if I guide you astray.

   For a smaller roof (say rafters of 6') you can use one of the wedge type anchors. But I don't mean use "one" anchor, of course. With the right tools, it's no big deal to put one near each rafter through your ledger. Depending on your brick, you might want to aim for the mortar joints. Make sure the diameter of your anchor is at least as big as the joint is wide. Otherwise, you might not get enough grip. Most of the loading is shear loading, but you don't want the anchors to pull out. You know your anchor is gripping if the washer under the nut or head of the bolt is compressing into the wood.

   For greater rafter span, and thus greater load, refer to JLC August 2003. They've detailed numerous deck ledger attachment methods that are readily adapted to a roof ledger situation. A concern that cannot be evaluated here is the integrity of your brick.

1. 
   RichR | Oct 26, 2003 10:25pm | #6

   The rafter lengths will be just over 13' L and the brick on the house is approximately 8 years old and in very good condition.  Thanks for your suggestion about the JLC article.  I appreciate your comments.