Hello Everyone,
My nickname is C.A.T. and I’m new to these message boards. I’m retired living in the beautiful mountains of North Georgia along the TN and NC state lines abt an hour from North Atlanta. Hope to start building my retirement dream home in the not too distant future. For now, I’m doing a lot of planning and research and building web pages to store ‘detailed’ info and photos of everything I want to include in this home….from photos, descriptions, diagrams and links to installation instructions. I’ll eventually upload them to my domain so that the draftsman/architect/subs can see this information.
I will be my own general contractor. My father was a GC and I’ve been around construction my whole life. Still, I have a lot to learn!! Around here being your own GC is not too difficult as most of the subs have a kind, helpful attitude much more than you find in the big cities. Small town living has it’s advantages..<BG>
These boards have already been so very helpful to me and I greatly appreciate all the time that so many knowledgeable people give to these forums.
Look forward to meeting everyone…Happy Holidays!!
CATinGAmtns
Replies
Welcome to BT CAT. Enjoy your stay....
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
Welcome to BT , Cat .
Merry Christmas from our cabin to yours,
Tim Mooney
Thanks for the Welcome!!!
If anyone has any suggestions for construction techniques building in this area, I'm all ears!! Please chime in with any pros or cons about any of the products I've chose.
My goal is to be the best house possible, with low maintenance in mind, ADA compliant just in case, that I can live in comfortably thru old age. I expect to be taken away from this house only in a pine box. LOL
Here's a general summary of local conditions:Central North Georgia Mountains less than one mile from TN state line: 4a moist-humid region; Frost line is 10"-12"; soil is rocky red clay so slab on grade isn't recommended and I don't like homes built on slab anyway; Garage on slab is okay. Elevation abt 2,200 ft.
There is no zoning here. Few upscale, traditional styled homes in platted/restricted Subdivisions. Most are weekend, log cabin style with all wood interiors which is what I'm in now. No place to rent while you build that's not $3,000+ a month, so you have to buy a cabin which is actually a great investment. This is propane country, so I buy the 1000 gal tank, bury it, then shop for gas in Aug/Sept when prices are at their lowest.
Only permits required are well, septic and driveway outside city limits. House will be tapped into city water but with septic tank which has already been approved for this lot at the time of development. Electric power is serviced by local co-op who buys from TVA power plants so energy costs are relatively low. We are a rural community with basically no on-going inspections and GA does not require builders to be licensed...scary isn't it? However, plumbers, electricians and HVAC contractors must be licensed. Home Inspectors do the job of construction inspections, after the fact, but before closings.
Code books seem to have been unread by a lot of locals building cabins. I do know personally an excellent framer who can also serve as construction consultant. He builds quality homes. But, I will be trying to be my own GC to save money that I can put instead into the house.
We receive about 6" to 12" of snowfall annually, most melts the next day, but we do have conditions where snow will stay on the roof for days; thus higher pitches than 3:12 are used often. High winds are also common. R-values per MEC for this area are Zone 1; i.e. R49 attic and R18 walls
Lot is 2.51 acres pie-shaped on small lake with abt .5 acre in water in restricted, gated community with paved roads. Restrictions are very reasonable. Grade is gentle to rolling from street level down to the lake. House will be oriented to south-southwest exposure on the back of the house to take in lake view and the mountains.
House: is Harrod's Creek, Southern Living plan...which can be seen at the southerliving.com web site. It was one of the 2003 Idea Houses built in TX on a slab. It's about 3900 sf heated with my modifications, all on one level with a guest suite over the porte cochere/2-car garage. I have study plans and will build with modifications:
#1 foundation will be "sealed" crawlspace [not slab] with french drains both inside and outside of the wall; 10" poured concrete with 4"-6" coping ledge for capstone#2 exterior and roof lines changed to New England shingle-style with higher roof pitches & covered porches and lots of open decking on the rear#3 all changes in flooring elevations will be eliminated..I want it all one level.#4 Roofing, decking and flooring products I have chosen are heavier than average#5 Guest room wing will be expanded to make it more square, fewer jogs in exterior wall; thus gaining space to allow each to have their own baths instead of sharing. Each of these 2 baths will have the toilet in a separate compartment with a window. It might be okay for kids to share a bath but not 4 adult guests. IMO, the toilet should always be separate from the sink and tub/shower.#6 - porte-cochere may be turned into 3rd bay of garage so access with groceries is easier and safer#7 - other modifications are minor, such as making a solid wall in the dining room niche to accommodate a china/hutch...just like they did in TX; and switching placement of wall ovens with the refrig/freezer.#8 - the guest suite over the garage will be finished with average-priced products...nothing fancy. It will be mainly for future if ever I need a person for 24hr in-home health care. In the meantime, it will serve as guest overflow space.
I will be hiring an architect/engineer to make these modifications to be sure framing specs meet and hopefully exceed code and trusses are structurally sound to the new roof framing system.
Although not required, I intend to follow many of the codes for Miami, FL construction due to the high winds we experience. May seem like over-kill to some of you pros but it's the worse thing to hear your entire roof trying to lift up off of the house. We do have tornados here but they are rare. Hard to believe but the winds here are stronger than east coast of FL during a NEster. Maybe not the tie downs all the way to the foundation but at least the roof ties.
Foundation Rocking: Cultured stoneRadon: vents running from below grade thru roof - we have average exposure hereFraming: 2x4 with 1" extruded foam on exterior and R-15 fiberglass insulation to bring wall R-value up to 22; house wraped; wall height 10'Floor Joists: I-beams - silent floor 16" ocSiding: fiber-cement either Hardie's Hardishingle or CertainTeed's Weatherboards, staggered shingles - stained a medium brown, non-red Cedar color.Exterior Trim: white - compositeSheetrock: 5/8" with backerboard in kitchen, laundry and bathsInterior Wall Insulation: mainly between the 2 guest bathrooms and laundry/guest bedroom as well as some other walls for soundproofing purposes.Flooring: 3/4" Brazilian Ipe select grade hardwood throughout- stained and finished on site - weight is approx. 4 lbs per sf; sheet vinyl in laundry/craft room out into the hallway vestibule and continuing to back door; carpet up the stairs and in the guest/bonus space over garage.Hardwood Flooring Underlayment: 15# felt or rolled corkRoofing: at min. 19/32" plywood sheating glued & screwed and all seams taped covered with 30# felt; Owens Corning Weatherguard HP asphalt shingles or CertainTeed's Landmark TL asphalt shingles that are Class A fire-rated - important for insurance here; copper flashings. Metal roofs are widely used here; but I'm going for a different style/product this go-around. Gutters: white seamless with solid leaf-guards and downspouts piped away from foundation possibly as far as left side of property which is already a rocked drain to the lakeWindows & Exterior Doors: Andersen white exterior and white interior sized per Architect's specs; also considering motorizing casement windowsFront Entry Door: Doors by Decora, Montgomery, AL w/ Baldwin or Bouvet hardwareWindow Hardware: Anderson white - still looking for another source that has more finishesDoor Hardware: Baldwin line designed for Anderson french/gliding doors or BouvetGrills for Windows & Doors: possibly Colonial Craft made for Anderson productsInterior Doors: Simpson maybe----still researching best paint-grade, solid core 8' wood door as well several 8' french/glass doors for interior; but do like the Simpson Pantry DoorInterior Mouldings: definitely Brazilian Ipe 1/4 round for finishing between floor and baseboards which can be ordered same time as flooring; still sourcing other mouldings to match mouldings chosen for Kraftmaid cabinetryDecks/Porch Flooring: Brazilian IpeDecks/Porch Railings: I'm seriously considering a white vinyl or composite product Exterior Columns: white composite - round doric or tuscan - per architect specsElectrical: Structured wiring: Category 5 with RG6 coaxial cable - looking at the Square D panel; and I have a long list of things to remember where I want extra outlets and switches to go a lot of which I learned from these forums. Will do final electrical plan after basic plans finalized with the architect. All elec. boxes are to be sealed. Will also have whole-house surge protector which is a must-have in this area. Generac 15K Guardian backup generator - possibly 2 of them. All lines to house must be buried, so will encase them and also run a PVC empty pipe from street to the hosue for future as well as out to various places in the yard for landscape lightingSecurity System: purchased from local company that has it's own monitoring system.TV & Internet: DirecTV & DirecWay satellite systems with local cable & dial up internet as backup [I design and maintain web pages for folks, so can't be down for very long]HVAC: electric air; propane gas central, zoned system with programmable thermostats, electrostatic filter system - looking at Carrier and Bryant 10+ SEER systems. I like the features of the Carrier Weathermaker 38TDA/B because of our hail and ice storms.Water: Wirsbo PEX system with no lines in exterior walls and whole-house water filtering system; additional 'at source' filters will be added to key locations; house to have at least 6 exterior water faucetsSeptic: all cast iron waste pipes with none in exterior walls except for guest suite over garage; looking at the Eljen Corp bio-matt leach field system because of proximity to the lake even though house has a 100' setback; but will see what local permit folks have to say.Well: may be drilled at a future time for exterior watering.Hot Water: propane gas - buy locally from gas co. - much easier & less headaches with any maintenanceExhaust: Fantech - bathrooms, study, liner for gas cooktop, general ventilation all with outside ventilation - nothing will vent into the attic or crawlspaceCeilings Fans: throughout house and on exterior porchesFireplaces: 3 Isokerns [one outdoor] propane gas logs ---- getting too old to haul wood but may consider putting a wood-buring on the screened in porch with a wood-waiter http://homepages.together.net/~wwind/woodwait.htmCabinets: Kraftmaid - birch or mapleCabinet Hardware: Bouvet, Baldwin or Period BrassCountertops: CorianSinks: integrated Corian and Kohler Undertone 18-gauge stainless & Kohler utility sink in garage; Blanco Magnum Farmhouse Style Undermount in laundry roomToilets: Kohler comfort-height with elongated bowls - gravity flushWhirlpool Tub: Jacuzzi or KohlerShower Pans: KohlerShower Systems: still sourcingShower/Tub Enclosures: still sourcingFaucets: Kohler and Delta ordered from a plumbing house...not purchased at nearby 'in a box' placeRefrig/Freezer: Sub-zeroWall Ovens, Warming Drawer: DCS48" propane, sealed burner cooktop/grill/griddle: DCSOutdoor Grill: DCS 36" built inDishwashers: fully-integrated Broan and one Fisher/Paykel DishDrawer in Butler BarGarbage Disposals: In-sink-erator - for septic tanks modelTrash-Compactor: KitchenAidUC ice maker: Scotsman with drain pumpUC beverage refrig: Marvel 3-zoneW/D: Whirlpool Duet HT/matching gas dryer; both with the pedestals.Closets/Pantry: customized, solid systems such as easyclosets.comGarage: poured concrete slab and poured foundation; all walls insulated and sheet rocked; ceiling insulated ??; concrete floor to be epoxy painted & sealed; has utility sink with hot/cold water. Garage Doors: 2 or 3 single Clopay 2" insulated, steel, premium series with Genie 1/2 hp Excelerator openers; rubber/vinyl strip will be installed where the garage door meets the floor to keep out wind, dirt and leaves.THANKS for reading all this.......Again, if anyone has anything at all to add, please let me hear from you. I have joined this forum to learn by gathering as much info as possible.
Happy Holidays to All,CATinGAmtns
Man. . . Give him an inch and he wants a mile (|:>)
I would not bury any propane tank. If you have any moisture in the soil (ha) it will accelerate the degradation of the tank. You will not be able to inspect or maintain the tank. If appearance is a concern, build a shed with a good roof and privacy fence type walls for ventilation.
You can hire a home inspector to do inspections during construction. Buy your own code book, just remember that the codes are the minimum for safety.
#1 Fench drains can fill. Consider running leaching perimeter drains to open air.
#5 Think carefully about ALL drain elevations/runs before you lay out.
Foundation tiedowns are cheap and prevent the roof from seperating the walls from the foundation. The nails from the sill plate to the walls all go into end grain and are not designed to prevent uplift. They prevent the walls from shifting horizontally.
Floor joists: find Boss Hoggs thread on floor vibration.
TV and Internet: See; Infrastructure Wiring
It is good that you are spending so much time thinking before nailing.
Good luck,
SamT
THANK YOU SamT for all your help!!! I'm sure I'll be changing a lot of specs as I learn more and the architect does his/her thing. Not going to rush into things. Still have a lot of planning to do.
Burying propane tanks up here is common and the 1000 gal size is necessary to run everything, including 15 generator and not have to fill up every few weeks. The one that I purchased and buried where I'm living now was coated inside and out to prevent deterioration. Not all the propane companies here do that. Gas prices vary widely not just between owned vs rented tanks but from day to day. Spreads of $.50 a gallon isn't unusual at any given point in time. It really does pay over the long term to buy a large one outright and bury the tank if you live here full time.
I'll ask about those leaching fields instead of french drains...our rocky clay soil can pose problems. The one I was looking at was Form-A-Drain from CertainTeed. http://www.certainteed.com/cfound/cfdct00002fu.html Upon completion of the concrete pour, the system stays permanently in place and performs the function of a foundation drainage system. It also effectively vents radon gas around the entire sub-slab perimeter. What do you think about this type?
I have a lot of info gathered on smart home technology and structured wiring but most of that was gathered 3 years ago. I will probably be looking at all this again because it changes so rapidly.
I'll go read up on Boss Hogg's floor vibration. Thanks for the tip. The hardwood flooring I've chosen is Ipe. It weighs 4 lbs per sf while typical oak flooring weighs only 2 lbs. I have lived before in a house that was wonderful. As soon as you walked in you could tell how solid & well built it was. The floors never vibrated. It was a pleasure to live in that house. Trying for the same thing this time.
Again, THANKS!!!!! Have a good weekend,CATinGAmtns
Yeah, I like the form-a-drain system.
Just to clear up any possible confusion. When I said leach type lines I meant a perimeter drain with pvc pipe with holes in it (replaced by form-a-drain) with drain pipe to open air. That is the whole system drains to a spot in the open and runs off to a street or creek or hay field somewhere.
You probably know that, but, I'ld hate to think I was the cause of you messin' up.
SamT
Here's the thread on Floor Vibration that SamT mentioned.
I've only had one experience with Form-A-Drain, but I like the product. Everyone seems to be concerned at first that the stuff will get busted or crushed during construction. But I never saw any evidence of that.
Form-A-Drain has been discussed here a time or 2 in the past. You might be able to find them using the advanced search function.I didn't work my way to the top of the food chain to eat vegetables.
Boss what kind of system do you have set up for all those link accesses?
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
"Boss what kind of system do you have set up for all those link accesses?"
I got tired of looking for specific threads when I wanted to refer someone to them. So I set up a text file with the links in it. I just copy from that and paste them in as needed.Sometimes I wake up grumpy. Other times I let her sleep.
Welcome CAT.....just look out for this guy that goes by the name of IMERC...he and Boss Hog switch personalities sometimes just to trip us up..and the only person to talk polotics with here is Bobby Walker....he's the hard right winger around here <G> and biggest Dubya fan....you'll see.
Be well and good luck
andy
My life is my practice!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
'Lo C.A.T.
Is that See Aay Tee, or khat?
SamT
I thought it was
Sea, period
Aye? period?
TEA! Period!
;)
Welcome aboard Cayat..
Excellence is its own reward!
Welcome to the forum.
Hang around a while and you're bound to learn plenty.
Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today.
Teach a man to fish; and you have fed him for a lifetime.
Teach a man to sell fish and he eats steak.
Cat..welcome and hang on..its a heck of a ride.! Enjoy.
welcome cat, this is a great forum, and I have seen more than a few.
best thing you can do is RUN, as fast as you can away from here, do not look back. and do not talk politics
The best employee you can have but you wouldn't want him as a neighbor " He the shifty type"
welcome aBOARD cat. this is a great site.
the canadian aye
Welcome to the forum,
There is a ton of info here, just remember to filter everything. You know what they say about opinions.
You might consider radiant heating, do a search of this site. There are several systems out there that might work for your project. And since Wet Head Warrior is recovering from his move to NC I will tell you to watch out for a outfit in Vermont (check the threads). Good luck with your project. I just finished a year long project acting as my own General, it was worth every second.
Jason
Thanks Jason!!!
I'll go read up on the radiant floor heating threads; but I'm pretty convinced that Ipe floors are not the best for it. I'd rather have the Ipe floors than the radiant heat. I'll definitely use radiant heat with all tile and carpet floors.
Glad you had a good experience as your own GC. I know it will be alot of headaches; but I know I'll greatly enjoy it.
black cloud....not sure I ever saw any of yer posts before so let me oppologize for not saying welcome...spose now I cant say Cloud.....now we have a black and a hidden one....geezzzzzz..lifes too complicated for me.
Next thing is someones gonna be in Hog Heaven.....ugh,,or,,,,Mike Walker, Texas Home Inspector,,,,or....Dear Piff (abby)...or Theo Thesaurous....or or or
BE head in the sand
andyMy life is my practice!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Andy.
I have been a quiet poster for about a 1 1/2 years. If this nickname causes problems let me know and I will change it.
Cat,
Here is a great site to get Radiant info, No BS. http://www.radiantpanelassociation.org/i4a/pages/index.cfm?pageid=246
This is another great site.
http://www.heatinghelp.com/index.cfm?Aff=7xsNHA7MY32645fdx2001rp51z17s17
There are a lot of people who have used hardwood including myself with excellent results. Mine is Hickory prefinished 3/4" X 2 1/2" wide.
JasonIf it wasn't for bad luck I wouldn't have Any!
Are you of a Nation?
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
Are you of a Nation?
I think he's almost old enough to be of the Woodstock NAtion.....lol
Be well bro ....I'm off to go a skiin'...yeeeee ha
andyMy life is my practice!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Imerc,
It was more as a description to the start of my project than my heritage, but yes a small part of me is Mohawk.
JasonIf it wasn't for bad luck I wouldn't have Any!
Which clan? Which nation?
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
Imerc,
Unknown.
JIf it wasn't for bad luck I wouldn't have Any!
Oh well... Thought your name was you.
I think it's cool.
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
no problem with me.I actually like the name.My life is my practice!
http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM