Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 23, 1999 02:41am | #1

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   You can span the 26' direction pretty easily with a wood web floor truss. I would suggest staying at least 20" deep, possibly up to 24". Don't let anyone talk you into a truss 18" deep or shallower, or they will bounce. (Resist the temptation to use closer spacing - this doesn't reduce the "bouncy" feel)

   The only "no bounce floor I know of is slab on grade. All other floor systems have SOME bounce in them.

2. 
   mr._greenjeans | Jul 23, 1999 03:31am | #2

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   I am doing about the same 30x26 appx. The big problem with above solutions is the depth of the joists -- about two FEET!!!

   I will be using a steel beam, fourteen or sixteen inch tall, to divide the span up into 2 shorter spans at 13', and use 2x12's as joists. Support columns at either end will be recessed into the wall.

   Pricing would be less than the truss-joists, also (I got quotes).

   IIK

3. 
   Guest_ | Jul 23, 1999 06:28am | #3

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   As Fred alluded to, one issue with open webbed trusses between the unheated area (the garage) and living space is proper insulation. I'll bet he has some kind of a good blown-in solution, but regular batt insulation will not give you a good thermal barrier in this application.

   If you check into the steel beam supported floor solution, remember to include the cost of the crane that will be necessary to set the steel.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 23, 1999 06:38am | #4

   *Hmm, this great room be the size of our ENTIRE HOUSE! Supported by boring old 2x10's. I guess I'm a bit out of date.Is a post or two such a big deal in a garage?

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 23, 1999 12:47pm | #5

   *Are Attic trusses a possibility?

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 23, 1999 11:14pm | #6

   *There a lot of ways to do this but they will all be expensive. Clear spaning 36' isn't practical. If you clear span 26' you will have to bear on the garage door openings. If you use three openings the header sizes will not be to bad. If you intend to use a double door, the header will have to bear a considerable tributary load from the floor above and will be of considerable size. This is in addition to the cost and depth of some large floor trusses above.A 36' beam is out of the question, too. You won't be able to use one 26' beam in the middle, because it will end up somewhere ontop of the center door. The load will be too great to use a kingpost on the beam. 2 26' beams will still be large and expensive and will require considerable footings at each bearing end and 3 doors. I would bite the bullet and break the 36' dimension into thirds, with 2 13' beams at each section with a post in the middle. This will reduce your joist span to 12' and the beam spans to 13'. This can all be made very stiff using ordinary materials. The joists will be parallel to the openings so headers will be almost unnecessary, although minimum door clearance above the openings will be required. Although you will have two posts in the garage you will save big bucks on labor and materials. It will probably still require 3 doors.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 24, 1999 08:00am | #7

   *A similar solution to Mike's. Use two 26' laminated beams set on posts between the garage doors and in wall at other end (no posts in open area of garage), with joist hangers and 12' floor joists. Beam would extend below garage ceiling the difference between beam and joist height. Check with the beam manufacturer for specified beam size to carry live load.

2. 
   Guest_ | Jul 24, 1999 08:39am | #8

   *This would require at least an 8x18 glue lam.

3. 
   Guest_ | Jul 24, 1999 09:07am | #9

   *Approx. cost? Can you get those at HD? ;)

4. 
   Guest_ | Jul 24, 1999 08:35pm | #10

   *The golden solution....Two steel beams 12" tall w/ 6" flanges set on steel posts w/ appropriate footings and located between doors. The steel company has a portable hand crank lift that will easily place beams. Now your 36' is 3-12' spans and you may even have partitions near the steel which is a bonus (stacked loads are a nice-ity.) 2x8 floor joists will sit on 2x4's that have been bolted to predrilled holes 4' on center and directly bearing on the lower flanges so as to have minimal beam below (all wrapped in 5x8 fire rated drywall and down the walls 4' by the way.) Glue down 3x4 t&g edge sealed OSB and you'll have a finely constructed and semi-economical/easy to build system.I just built a very similar space last year.Near the stream,j

5. 
   Guest_ | Jul 24, 1999 08:45pm | #12

   *PS Carpenters seem to steer clear of steel solutions (hard to cut with skill saw, the saw dust burns, nailing to it is a b*tch...) but I'm here to tell ya that my ways have changed and I am a recent convert to steel...for large loads and I just love the stuff.Near the stream,j

4. 
   lea | Jul 24, 1999 08:45pm | #11

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   I would like to build a 36 ft x 26 ft three car garage with no support columns. Above it will be a great room.

   Anyone have a suggestions? The floor must be stiff.