Non-load bearing wall code question
Attached is a picture of a basement family room wall, 3/4 T&G pine run vertically on one side of the wall, other side is open (see picture). To give better definition to the picture, yes… there is no top plate to this wall, and the few studs that were installed were nailed to the bottom plate then wedged into position at the top (i.e. a 1/4″ thick ceiling material was put on the bottom of the joists above, then the studs were wedged against the ceiling material). Kwalitee crapsmanship.
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My question is, what is code-compliant framing for this? To keep it simple and cheap, I was planning on adding the top plate and studs 24″ OC. However, since the pine is run vertically, what size furring strips (running horizontal) are needed, and spaced how far apart (vertical spacing), to be code-compliant? What if 2×4 blocking is used in place of furring strips? Anything different? Code in my area would be IRC, and I can’t seem to find this in the book.
Thanks in advance!
Replies
What is your goal? What are you trying to accomplish besides creating another handiman chore for yourself?
Trust me, not looking for another handyman job. And, seeing as there really isn't much supporting the wall (again, no top plate, studs basically attached to nothing at the top), it's due to have some additional framing.
Also, the real reason... City has a pre-sale inspection, and from what I know, they love to nitpick stuff like this. Why? Because then they say, "Oh, building permit required. Minimum permit fee $60, +$25 administrative fee." It's their method of implementing the building tax. So, for a couple of added studs, that's what I'd be dropping.
So, it's more a pre-emptive strike than me looking for something to do...
Okay...I just wanted to know what your goal was before answering. The easy answer is to say "build it to code and put the studs at blah, blah, blah.". I would just add the top plate and then maybe add some additional vertical stiffeners. They could be construed as studs but your set up isn't necessarily needing studs. You might accomplish a much stiffer wall, if you need it by adding horizontal members to create "L-style" horizontal members instead of those 2x4's on the flat which probably hve a lot of give. You might add one shear point and stiffen the whole mess up. Maybe a stud and a brace to the ceiling. Or a cabinet with a sheet of plywwood which braces everything. There are dozens of ways..the main component missing right now is your top plate and that might not be necessary if the boards are attached in some way to a horizontal element on the other side of the partition.
Who says it's supposed to be a wall? It looks more like a fence to me - and a fence is really just a boundry marker.
Cut some elaborate shapes at the top and call it "art"... or just a temporary room divider.
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Save the Whales! and Guns!
That's how I'm seeing it too Paul. If someone hung a sheet as a divider, would that need to meet some type of framing code?
Look like its been in place for a long time. I wouldnt sweat it unless the thing flaps in the wind when the dog wags his tail.
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
Handyman chore or not, that thing looks like sh!t. Tear it out, frame it, and put up sheetrock.
If he's sellin just rip it out. Why incur more cost on something you're selling?
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
Good point. The wood looks to be salvagable as well.
I agree, this is one job that just reeks of home handyman gone wrong. Here's two good pictures of the quality electrical work that was done by what I'm assuming to be the same crapsman. Without looking at the wiring, how do you like the sexy ways the lights were hung? Then, looking at the wiring, how many different code violations can you count? I count at least six: 1. Hidden JB, as a ceiling used to cover this mess (JBs are on top of the lights in the pics), 2. JB w/o cover, 3. JB not affixed to anything, 4. Cables not stapled proper distances from boxes, 5. Exposed wiring hanging from fixture box, 6. No cable clamp at light box. Needless to say this abomination is no more.
As for the wall, the other side of the wall is painted, doesn't look THAT bad, and I'm trying to avoid spending too much time or money. Reinforce it, lay down some fresh paint... done.
But... stupid as it sounds I'm still curious about my code question... In a case like this, is the "proper" way to put studs 24" OC (but I'd stud them out normally, not sideways), and then put either 2x4 blocking or firring strips up the wall 24" OC for the paneling to nail in to? Like I said, I looked in the code book and really didn't see what applied to a wall like this.
If your determined to make it code-compliant than 2x4 top & bottom plates and studs 24" OC will work. You can install more furring strips (no more than 24 OC) and lock everything in.
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
Thanks! That's what I figured.
If that's a furnace I'm seeing it may be necessary for the wall to be drywall, and possibly fire caulked, etc.