Hi there. I’m a first-time poster, but long-time subscriber to FHB. I’m updating an attic bedroom in a small bungalow built in 1945. I need to put doors on some existing openings, and I’m not sure if I need to get custom size doors or if I can use standard size doors. The rough openings are as follows: 26 3/4″ x 80″, 23 1/4″ x 79″, and 32 3/4″ x 81 1/2″. Raised panel oak doors from http://www.interiordoors.com made to custom size add 50% or 75% to the standard prices they list, so avoiding that markup would be nice. Could I cut a slightly larger door? Or should I avoid trimming nice doors like these?
Some background info: I spent 6 years as a cabinetmaker (european laminated boxes) before getting into the software biz, but this is my first time building/installing nice interior doors. A prehung door is only an option on the last door listed above, for reasons too complicated to quickly explain. I’ve built jambs for some small solid-core doors to get behind the kneewalls in the attic, so building the jambs doesn’t worry me too much. I’ve got decent tools, and I’m not in a big hurry.
NEW INFO REGARDING QUESTIONS: The existing openings are rough as in no existing jambs, just studs. The drywall is already up and trimmed flush with the openings.
THE THING I’M MOST UNSURE ABOUT: What is the maximum gap you can have between the jamb and the studs (ie, what’s the max you can shim)? There must be a rule-of-thumb such as “never more than 3/4”. Or is it simply limited by the thickness of the casing?
NEW QUESTION: Any recommendations on suppliers for such doors?
Thanks in advance,
Scott
Edited 12/2/2003 11:41:20 AM ET by BoxBuilder
Edited 12/2/2003 12:03:55 PM ET by BoxBuilder
Replies
You don't mention what the style of the doors is to be.
The first two should not be a problem with cutting down from standard sizes, the third might be close.
Check with your dealer where you might buy them. The specs of the company should tell you how much you can cut off of each side and bottom.
[quote]You don't mention what the style of the doors is to be.
Raised panel interior doors like those found here: http://www.interiordoors.com/styles.html
Not trying to sound like a smartguy, but does that answer your question?
Thanks,
Scott
Yes and no. It is impossible to judge the quality of a door from the picture. Some doors are made from solid hardwoods with an oak veneer, while some use particle board. The detail you must be sure of is that they dont skimp on the door edge hardwood strip. Most quality doors will have a minimum of 3/4" on each side, while lesser quality doors might have only 1/4". If the door has 3/4" or more, and has a hardwood center, you could cut off just under the 3/4" from each side, and still have the hardwood beneath for adequate screw holding power. So do your homework, and you should be ok.When all else fails, use duct tape!
If you rip the width to much, you will expose the lumber core of these doors. However, you being a cabinet maker, are equipped to deal with that. Then again, you may not mind the differant wood.
Any chance making the r.o's wider?
or in the case of the third one, just a little narrower. Down to a 32"
Well, here's another case of reading your post, then reading the replies, then wondering if I'm really missing something.
1) you say "rough opening", is that a finished/semi-finished jamb, or really a rough opening ? (i.e. are the studs are exposed ? can we put in a partial jamb just for the latch side ?)
2) how square and plomb are those openings ? That'll be a big factor in how close a tolerance you can run.
3) standard doors are about 80" tall, but our local box stores all stock 78" doors in popular styles and will order a 78" door at no extra charge. Even if you went with 80" doors, you can cut 2-3" off the bottom with no sweat (although you may have to put a fillet in there as some hollow-core cores only have an inch of "frame" down there. PS, are you going to make all the doors the same height (looks like 78") for appearance ?
4) Okay, here's where the "how finished are the existing jambs ?" question comes up. In opening #1, 26¾" x 80"; if that's finished, you could put in a filler-jamb on one side and put a 26x80 door in that opening; if it's rough, but really close to true, then you can put a 24x78 door (or an 80" door trimed down to 79") in that opening.
5) For door #2, I'm pretty sure I could squeeze/cut a 22" door into that space; but not a 24" unless the opening was really good and these were premium doors with a lot of lattitude for triming down AND I WAS REALLY PUSHED TO DO IT.
6) Door #3 is a 32" in a finshed opening with a filler-jamb on one side, or a 30" in a true rough opening.
7) NB, as soon as you start thinking about trimming doors, or even shaving them to fit existing opening - DO NOT BUY THE ONES PRE-DRILLED for locks or hinges.
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
max gap to shim would pretty much depend on just how much extra/shim material you have on hand!
You could "shim" the opening closed by filling it with studs, right?
Jeff
Buck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry