I have top nailed oak floors in a 1927 craftsman that I would like to refinish. The previous owner drove dozens of 16p nails into the floor; I assume hi intention was to eliminate squeaking. Removing the nails has resulted in many deep blemishes. What should I use to fill these holes?
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The best filler is TimberMate but a satisfactory substitute is sanding dust mixed with shellac.
IanDG
I prefer to drill and plug them, match the grain orientation and color. Nails in oak often leave a blue stain halo..filler can't fix that. And filler looks like, filler. Plugs are keeping it wood, and can conceal screws that do what the nailes were trying to achieve.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
The blue stain halo is best dealt with by using a bigger nail set than necessary for the head of the nail. Unless the floor has been wet at any time it doesn't usually extend far from the nail.
It would be a lot of work to set, drill and plug a top-nail floor.
IanDG
yeh but...his 16d nails have a 5/16th head, thats a big punch..a 3/8 plug would be much neater.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Assuming 3½" wide boards and bearers at 16" centers, you're looking at about 250 plugs per square.
You won't mind if I leave this one for you?
IanDG
LOL...no problems, I have done worse things.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
I did a Brush-Box floor with Jarrah edging and Jarrah pegs onceView Image
and I swore then "Never again!"
Have you ever tried TimberMate® filler? -- it's brilliant.
IanDG
Thanks for the reply....the best estimate I've received is from a friend of a friend...$2.50 Sq. Ft. for about 800 Sq. Ft. sanding and one coat of finish. Second coat finish .30 SQ ft. Top nailed oak floors, fair to poor condition....I will be removing nails and filling. Is this a fair price or should I do the job myself.
Is this a fair price or should I do the job myself.
uh ..
how does Ian know if U have $2240 laying around?
JeffBuck Construction, llc Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
IMHO plugs are the way to go. Especially for anything over 1/8" or so. A neatly done bow tie dutchman actually, again IMO, can actually add character and be a feature. The old admonition that it is often better to celebrate it than try to conceal a mistake or flaw has a lot of truth to it.
I should add this to the construction quotes thread:
After a minor screw up you tell the guy to: 'Paint it red and everyone will think it is supposed to be that way.'
filler will conceal the best if nails were not in a pattern that many plugs run wild would show badly what sphere said- send screws back into the nail holes if possible use woodwise or timbermate filler for red or white oak according to the job mix in some edger dust from that floor to further match color tone and reduce shrinkage in the larger pits if not avail @ hardware/paint store, you'll find them in a wood floor refinishers supply house
if more 16d need to be pulled a trick is to shoot them back out from below, if there's access, using a pneumatic palm nailer inside the joist bays facenails that big hang down like icycles if you're doing a lot of this, there's a pneumatic gun called the "nail kicker" which would be more efficient
from the top, try cooper tools jaws-type nail puller, less damage than cats paw or shark pullers
be careful if mixing your own filler w edger dust from that floor and a combustible chemical let patches set up and vent out the jobsite before sanding resumes floor refinishers in boston just had a fatal explosion/fire, heard lacquer was the culprit
Moyda,
NOt sure what you mean by Deep Blemishes? Big Nail holes, or gouges where you used a tool to remove the nails?
If it's just nail holes, look for a product called ZAR OAK PATCH. It comes in a tube and is colored. It will take a stain and just about disappear if you do it right. Patch before you sand. Sand as normal. Just before you apply stain, hit it with a hand sand. It should then be open enough to accept the stain.
It comes in White or Red Oak. Make sure you get the right color.
I spent about 2 1/2 years of my life running a stair rail business and used Zar almost every day. Never had it turn bad or show after it was stained.
NO matter what you use, test it first.