Hi, I used to post here a few years ago, then I went a while without a computer, and kind of stopped. In any event, this probably wont work out in my favor, but I know a lot of you guys are pretty full of info, so Im hoping someone can steer me in the right direction.
I need an air stapler that staples through .0625″ (1/16) T-5 aluminum into 1/2″ and 3/8″ plywood. Most of the time we use birch ply because its usually really consistent in thickness, but when the birch isnt available we use luan. Still the 1/2″ and 3/8″ thicknesses. Every once in a while we’ll use 1/4″, but only when absolutely necessary.
The trick is, the staples have to go through the aluminum into the wood, but not out through the other side of the plywood. The exterior of the plywood is laminated with ABS plastic.
Anyone know anything that would work here? We could also crimp the aluminum to the wood on the interior, but have had no luck comimg up with a crimper that can do it. I know its possible, because other people do it. But, not even the people at our fastener store knew of an option.
Im not expecting much, but any suggestions anyone could give would be awesome. Thanks in advance!
Replies
I have a Duofast wire stapler that will easily put a staple through aluminum. It shoots through aluminum soffit and drip edge.
Might be what you are looking for. It can be used as a fully automatic pistol or single shot. Really fun to use.
this stuff is way beefier than soffit. check the link here http://www.penn-elcom.com/CatImages/CDimages400x400/Hardware/Extrusions/E0876.jpg and here http://www.penn-elcom.com/CatImages/CDimages400x400/Hardware/Extrusions/E0213.jpg to see what theyre going through. the pieces in the 2nd link break apart down the middle, and the metal mates to itself
finish products here http://www.flickr.com/photos/crowncases .... i probly should have thought about putting those up in the first post
WHen I saw 1/16" thickness I thought no problem. Now that I see what you are attaching to the plywood, it's not gonna work. I skimmed over the T-5 part.
Have you tried glue or laminations? A staple through finished aluminum extrusions might look tacky.
http://www.uniontoolcorp.com/pages/Rotary_Laminator_PB1032.htm
yes, we currently glue it, but it sets up really fast. the glue has to go on during assembly, so once it dries youre not left with much chance of moving the panel without totally breaking the glue loose. the staples and/or crimps go on the inside and are not visible from the outside. the interiors are generally lined with foam or carpet, and even when theyre not lined, people kind of expect to see some kind of internal fastening .... the internal fastening avoids having to pop rivets every 6" or so through the outside, which makes things start to look really ugly
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Perhaps a press brake machine would be what you need to put a single long crimp or a series of short crimps in the back leg of the extrusion. A special die to force just the edge of the extrusion to bend in and cut into the wood. You wouldn't need glue at all with this type of machine.
You could also use this type of machine to put a series of dimples in the inside leg of the extrusion. The dimples would crush into the flat of the wood and hold the piece.
I bet you could build a single shot press from an old hydraulic press used to seat bearings.
I got one of those Arrow electric stabler. Biggest piece of $%@# I ever had, within 12 minute of getting I was using it to throw at the dogs in the garbage.
Looks like you're making cases or something similar. I used to work for a sound company, making all their road cases. We used countersunk drive rivets on the outside, no glue, just the expansion of the rivet in the plywood was adequate. as long as the holes were properly located and countersunk, it looked great. I think we used to put 'em around 12" apart. Also used corner brackets with pop rivets all the way through the ply w/ backing washers, which is probably where we got the main strength.
yes, its road cases. i know about riveting down the extrusion, we used to do that too. but, i dont like the way it looks. the customers know if they dont see rivets going down the extrusion, theres no way youre trying to sneak by using single angle corner extrusion. we back the rivets with washers, and all that kind of stuff too. thats pretty much industry standard. and, yes... anything over 45" gets angle braces on the outside. usually at 1/3 and 2/3 lenghts
How about instead of an answer another question?
Maybe i missed it, but I'm interestsed in what you are building these panels for?
ATA road cases. ATA stands for airline transportation something or other .... theyre built mainly for entertainment industry purposes, but youll also see them at sporting events, in doctors offices, and once in a while for recreational purposes. gun cases are not uncommon, and once we built one for a trolling motor. go to http://www.flickr.com/photos/crowncases to see pictures and brief descriptions. the real site is crowncases.com, but that hasnt been updated or anything in about 18 months, and really lacks pictures and content in general
When I read the original post I thought, "I wonder if that guy is making road cases?"
Then I saw the pix in your next post.
I believe Anvil used to rivet everything at first. Then I was at the Calzone Case Company maybe fifteen years ago and it looked like they crimped the aluminum extrusion down onto the plywood because it was a much cleaner look.
I'd suggest maybe look into some kind of space age adhesive rather than a different kind of fastener. After all they use adhesive of some kind to fasten carbon frames together.
youve been to the Calzone warehouse? thats awesome! those guys and Anvil are probably the most well known names in the industry. Olympic makes a much better case than either of them tough. Olympic are most definitely the best ive ever come across .... its actually Calzone that started using the angle braces down the long walls instead of riveting, and its Olympic that relies solely on crimps .... its just like anything else... 25 ways to build the same end product