Replies

1. 
   popawheelie | Nov 18, 2009 01:58am | #1

   There are a few different ones out there.

   There can be some problems with matching the existing jams spacing.

   The jigs have pre-set spacing that lock in.

   If the pre-set spacing of the jig is off even a little bit from your existing jam it won't work.

   I did customized the spacing on my Bosch jig but it was difficult.

   Your jams have mortises that have a certain distance between each hinge.

   You would have to make sure the jig you buy matches your jams spacing.

    

   I had a Bosch. http://www.google.com/products?q=door+hinge+template&hl=en&aq=1&oq=door+hinge+

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   Edited 11/17/2009 6:00 pm by popawheelie

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   Edited 11/17/2009 7:51 pm by popawheelie

   
   

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   Edited 11/17/2009 7:52 pm by popawheelie

2. 
   Dave45 | Nov 18, 2009 02:49am | #2

   Is there something special about the door jambs you're trying to work with? You will probably be time and money ahead to get prehung doors and replace the whole thing.

1. 
   bigrt | Nov 18, 2009 01:31pm | #9

   Eleven doors,stain grade pine.5and3/8ths jams.

1. 
   migraine | Nov 18, 2009 06:39pm | #13

   what size are the existing hinge butts?

3. 
   PatchogPhil | Nov 18, 2009 05:23am | #3

   Do you have the door that used to hang there?

   If yes, just line it up to the new door and transfer the location and dimensions. Get a sharp chisel.

   If no door, get some paper and make a long skinny tracing of the existing door jam. Transfer to new door. Get a sharp chisel.

   Be mortising.

    

   Quantum materiae materietur marmota monax si marmota monax materiam possit materiari?
   

4. 
   davidmeiland | Nov 18, 2009 05:29am | #4

   Bosch and Porter Cable sell the most common jig. Stanley used to sell one. They can usually be used easily to mortise doors to match existing prehungs. One thing, though, if the prehung hinges have a 5/8" radius corner you will have to get an odd router bit and template. IIRC with the Bosch jig you actually need to use their router base to make it work. Also worth looking into the Templaco jigs, cheaper and there are several flavors. I have sometimes used just one template from my Bosch setup if the spacing of the hinges was unusual, just set it separately for each mortise.

1. 
   bigrt | Nov 18, 2009 01:42pm | #10

    

   Thanks! I use Bosch routers,I'll check into Templaco also.

    

5. 
   migraine | Nov 18, 2009 06:07am | #5

   1st of all, paint grade or stain?

   Templaco makes a 2, or  3 butt that usaully comes close to machine rund mortising.  You can up grade from a 3" to a 3 /12" hineg or a 3 1/2" to 4" hinge but and that usually get you reall close if not cover existing slots in the jambs.  Single strip jig is easy to use(1/2" router bit and 5/8" bushing/guide on your router)

   Going from a 2 to 3 hinges on a 2 hinge door is great for additional support.

1. 
   cjeffrey | Nov 18, 2009 06:40am | #6

   I have always done it with a chisel.
   I have seen a homemade one that used a template sleave on a router and a straightedge that the jigs got clamped or screwed to in the right places.

1. 
   migraine | Nov 18, 2009 06:46am | #7

   for one off/s yeah, router/jig aint worth the time.  Free hand is the way to go.

   But, I rarely do just one door.  More like 10+

    

1. 
   cjeffrey | Nov 18, 2009 07:32am | #8

   For me it was always 1 or 2 at a timeWhy would you do 10 or more? Usually for us around here it is prehung doors. Unless retrofitting in a renovation setting.

6. 
   hammer1 | Nov 18, 2009 02:44pm | #11

   If you are replacing doors in existing jambs, you are better off to fit the door, shim it in place and mark the top and bottom of the hinges with a utility knife. Just a nick on the edge. You can make a simple plywood jig for an individual hinge and position it to match the marks. You never know if the original was done with a multi place jig or if the spacing is consistent. It's easy enough to make a multi hinge template, too, if you are sure of the spacing.

   Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

1. 
   bigrt | Nov 19, 2009 12:27am | #17

   I tried this way once before but my patience wore thin.Doorboy had some good advice,feel like a idiot for not thinking of it.

7. 
   HootOwl | Nov 18, 2009 06:01pm | #12

   http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&cat=1,43000&p=40219

8. 
   doorboy | Nov 18, 2009 07:39pm | #14

   hammar1 has some good advise in 126681.12.
   But a storyboard works well also--and it will save you from lifting so much. Not only do the hinges have to be spaced properly, but a lot of people forget to measure the backset of the existing hinges. It's critical.
1. 
   observer | Nov 18, 2009 08:38pm | #15

   Agreed. Story stick, measured backset and measured mortise depth makes it a snap to hang a new slab. Trace the hinges, chisel cut around the edge and take out the waste with a trimmer router freehand. Done in 15 minutes.

9. 
   unTreatedwood | Nov 18, 2009 09:19pm | #16

   I replaced 8 - 9 doors in a vacation home a while back.  I used the Bosch template with a dedicated PC 310 trim router.  I created a block to center the templates on the existing mortises in the jambs.  Worked like a charm.  All the hinges were located with the same distance spread, fortunately.

   At its most basic level, capitalism offers people the freedom to choose where they work and what they do … the dignity that comes with profiting from their talent and hard work. … The free-market system also provides the incentives that lead to prosperity -- the incentive to work, to innovate, to save and invest wisely, and to create jobs for others.” -President George W. Bush

   In other words, free-market capitalism is the best path to prosperity.

10. 
    PPajor | Dec 18, 2009 04:21pm | #18

    I have a single hinge mortise jig, PC I think. What I have done successfully for dozens of door replacements is remove the hinge pin, leaving the part of the hinge screwed to the jamb in place. Then I lay the old door on the new one (making sure the tapered edges are in the same direction), align the ends and sides -- if new door is too big I plane/cut it to size. Then I use a utility knife to mark on the new door where the old door hinges were. I router out the mortises and screw in the corresponding hinge parts. Then I slightly loosen the screws on hinge parts still on the jamb, line up the hinges on the new door and jamb, pop in the pins, and tighten the screws on the jamb. This works 95% of the time w/o any adjustment to the hinges.

11. 
    epsaklas | Dec 19, 2009 07:31am | #19

    Porter cable makes a plastic guide for use with a router. I got mine at Home Depot, and they are available on-line (try Amazon). Cost is about $25. The guide can be adjusted for all of the common hinge sizes. It is not the sturdiest tool made, but it should work for you. I used mine for 14 doors so far.

    Several of the other replies give you good hints on to set the location of the hinges. I generally like to install the hinges on the jamb, fit the new door into the opening with a bunch of shims to insure it fits all the way around, mark and install the top hinge on the door, hang it with shims holding the bottom in place, then mark the lower and middle hinge locations. Then cut the hinge openings on the door, replace the door on the top hinge (with shims holding the bottom) and screw the middle and bottom hinges onto the door.