I am a cabinetmaker, trying to fit into carpenter’s shoes. I made my new entry door and had it pre-hung by a lumber dealer. It is ready to install, I think, but I need some advice. The door swings into the room. The wall leans to the outside about 3/8″-1/2″ at the top of the door opening. I know the jamb has to be square for the door, but does the jamb have to be plumb, or just the same angle on both sides? Also, do all hinges have play in them, so the supposed 1/8′ gap disappears to nothing at the bottom, and the gap at the top becomes more than 1/8″? What I am asking is it pretty much a fact that I am going to have to fiddle with the hinge mortices? Can anyone give me a tutorial? I would appreciate any help I can get, thanks.
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Yeah, the frame needs to "plumb" relative to the wall as Pete says. More importantly, though, the frame needs to be FLAT (relative to the door) so that it seals evenly all around. This may mean that one side will be flush to the wall and the other side a little off that mark, if the wall isn't flat. (If you plan ahead you can "split the difference here.)
Having done this twice, about all I've figured out to do is to roughly shim out the hinge side of the RO to the right width, set the door in, tack it on the hinge side, and then FUDGE -- FUDGE -- FUDGE until you have the best compromise you can manage. Don't worry too much about the trim for starters (often it's best to remove the trim on both sides first) -- as a cabinetmaker you can figure out how to cut extensions and/or route the back of the trim to get everything to fit flush.
Don't forget to pay attention to the situation at the bottom. It's often best to let the door tilt slightly right or left so the threshold is flush on the sill (unless you're willing to trim the door bottom at an angle).
Re the hinges, remember that you should, as soon as you have settled on the final position of the hinge side, drive long screws through each hinge into the rough framing. This takes the load off the door frame so there's less hinge sag.
There shouldn't be any noticeable play in the hinges themselves, but I would guess there's enough to produce 1/8" sag or so. Correct for this by reducing the upper hinge's shim by that amount.
A door installed very far out of plumb will tend to open or close all by itself. A door that does this will be a constant reminder to all that pass through it that there is something wrong with the house. Install the door plumb and square and make up any wall screwieness (yes, I just made that word up) with the door trim. You could make up that 1/2" by tapering the door jambs 1/4" and making up the rest with the door trim. Slight visual discrepancies such as this usually go un-noticed by people but a door that swings by itself gets noticed by everyone.
Slight visual discrepancies such as this usually go un-noticed by people but a door that swings by itself gets noticed by everyone. I agree.Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
>> ... screwieness (yes, I just made that word up) ...
Nah, you just picked the minority spelling. Google shows 369 instances of screwyness, 5 instances of screwieness.
The door you made is probably heavy, maybe heavier than a fir door of the same dimensions. A good door like that deserves some quality ball bearing hinges.
My guess is, unless you told them otherwise, that the door shop used plain old steel 79-cent (yes, that is what they pay for them) steel hinges, made in China.
Swap them out for some good ones, and then deal with the margin on the hinge side, by shimming out, or cutting in. Your cheap hinges have leaves of about .097 thickness, and good BB hinges are maybe .125, so you will be cutting anyway.
so far ...everyone said something different ...
and so far ... I'd say they're all right.
it's remodeling ... no one fix fits all ...
it if's "not too" far outta wack ... Pete's on the money ...
if the door swings in and knocks small children over ... Lurch is right.
Probably a combination is all is what you're gonna need ...
That ... plus the upgraded hinges ... and 4 hinges on a heavy door is always nice too ... but it might not be heavy enough to need them .. and it's probably too late ...
Unless ya sneak a set in between the top and middle .... exactly half way ...
Unless something is severly wrong ... you don't wanna mess with the hinge mortises ..... adjust the jamb instead.
I'd set it flush with the walls ... outta plumb .. and see how that looks/works.
That's how 90% of all retro fit doors are set.
The other 10% are when that won't work ... then ya gotta either fatten up and bevel .. or bury some trim ....
if that's the case ... usually splitting the difference is best. A little on both sides ...
still not perfectly plumb ... but as long as if functions ... and U are the only one that knows ...
Remodeling ... it's all about faking the new stuff to match the existing. Sometimes ya want perfectly plumb and level ... sometimes that's the last thing ya want.
Jeff
Buck Construction, llc Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
BTW .... does the top lean in or out?
Sometimes a little tap ...
OK .. a big smack ... with a block and a sledge ...
works wonders!
Walls move easier than you'd think.
Jeff
Buck Construction, llc Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry