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Hi,
Has anyone out there used OSB (Oriented Strand Board) for a finished flooring material. If so, how did it turn out – what would you do differently – how did you fasten the boards to the sub floor?
Egon
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b TVMDC
Never used OSB for a "Finished" loor . . . sounds like something Frank Gehry would do. It would look great if you varithaned the surface.
As for attaching subflooring I always put a line of glue onto the joists and nail with ring-shank nails. But if you intend to use OSB for the finished floor, use either brass or silicone bronze counter-sunk screws. I prefer the darker color of the latter.
*Do you really mean finished, as in, no carpet, no vinyl, no tile, no hardwood, nothing over it?
*There was an article a while back in FHB that I think was by Mike Guertin. If I remember correctly he was building his own house and did the same thing to cut costs temporarily. I remember it looking kinda cool. I don't know which one it was but a search might turn it up.
*Ah, how refreshing to read an unpretentious question!I used OSB (2 layers) painted with 2 coats of "floor" paint for our cabin and so far (3 years) so good. If it chips, I'll repaint it and if that doesn't hold up, I'll put a "legit" floor down.Sounds like you are looking for an unpainted, artsy look. Will polyurathane or similar finish stick well to the glue-soaked OSB? What about those factory painted edges?Give it a shot. What have you got to lose, maybe $.40 per square foot, including poly?As for fastening, as long as you can't hide it, flaunt it. The more unusual and obvious, the better.-Randy
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Ye, that's right. We've seen it in a couple of magazines. Also 'Quizno Sub' restaurants have their counter made of the stuff as well. It kind of looks like cork flooring.
*Thanks for the tips. The article which mentioned it showed silver washers and black screws in the corners, but I was wondering what about the other areas (like the center) to keep it from lifting. Do you think that some finish nails would hold it down until the glue dried?
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b TVMDC
Egon, Subfloor panels are usually nailed or screwed according to an engineer's or architect's schedule: 6" on center around the perimeter and 12" on center in the field. Yes, the center area (the field) has to be nailed or screwed in addition to glueing. If you are nailing, use ring shank nails to resist pull-out.
*Egon it sounds like you want to lay down an additional layer of osb for the floor, in that case, you would not have to nail it according to subfloor specs. I would not glue it down, because it will make removal more difficult in the future. I would use a narrow crown stapler for a clean unmarred look, or nickle plated drywall screws for a uniform look, you can get a screw with a seft drilling point and nibs under the head for pilotless countersinking.Good luck, and keep us postedDavid
*I was at a restaurant/bar in Wheeler OR last month that had OSB as finished flooring. The floor was sanded after installation and finshed with poly. Nice looking floor. I would use 1/2" crown staples and putty the holes before sanding and finishing.Good luck,joe d
*Egon, I would use trim head screws. Use the square drive heads, stainless or black depending on the look you are going for, stainless are significantly more expensive, of course. I think the screws will give you a better finished product than staples or ring shank nails, and the finish washer look sounds too bulky. Just my opinion, s
*somewhat related. a friend of ours could not afford the floors he wanted so they put down cdx, sanded off the trade marks and then rolled on a poly finish. It really looks nice . However where they sanded down the trade marks created low spots. Anyone know of a good chemical or natural ingredient theat will remove the stamps?
*Stain the floor the color of the stamps?Removal of stamps has been discussed (I don't remember what was said), you might want to do a bit of searching.Rich Beckman
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David, thanks for the tip sounds like you just saved us a few more $$$ & time.
I have been testing different varathanes (& coats) and fasteners on my test board. Today I bought myself a freud chamfer bit to take the edges off to hide the imperfections of the boards when laid side by side. Looks great! I'm much more optimistic about the project now.
*I was wondering if one could order them from the mill without the stamps. We're going to give them a call.
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Georgia Pacific makes a product called Lami-Floor. It's 3/4" thick, is actually a hardboard (three 1/4" layers factory laminated), comes with prebored and countersunk holes (8" at perimeter, 16" in the field), is made for flooring , and takes paint or stains well. Last I checked it cost around $32 per 4X8, weighs approx 150 pounds per sheet, and is special order. The screws invariably give it a slightly "high-tech" look. More durable than hardwoods.
*OSB as finished floor? Great idea. I'd use a good hardwood, parquet with a swedish finish for the subfloor, glued and screwed and... MDNo OSB lover
*richyes the topic has been up before but nobody had a good answer even at JLC or Knots.When I asaw the topic come up again I was hoping that maybe someone else might join in that had not before. Stainig the color of the stamps would mean staning the floor black. My wife has used OSB in several projects and has gotten used to the texture and apperance. When I told her of this post she said " wow wher can we try it "
*OSB as a finished floor???Maybe as a temporary floor until funds are available for a permanent floor covering. OK for a doghouse, shed or hunting shack interior. Other than that - I can't buy it. No OSB for i any finished surface in the living area - period.
*A friend of mine who owned a bar in Atlanta added a room on to put a pool table in. He used OSB for the finish floor and I told him it would never work. Of coarse he did not take my advice and he went ahead and put about three or four heavy coats of polyurethane on the floor and they started playing pool. About four years later when they closed the place the floor looked good and showed no signs of flaking or other damage.
*Does everyone really think ya have to nail/staple it? If the sub(sub)floor is firmly attached, I'd try just glueing the hell out of it. Maybe even some type of contact cement. I'd probably just go with liquid nails....never fails. Jeff
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You may not like, hek! I'm still not 100% convinced but Benita (my is) sure is and why not be unconventionsl? All of you guys have given some pretty good, at times least critical advice, but still appreciated.
We plan on starting the project August 3rd. I'll post an update message then and the we can talk facts about the project. Talk to you all then. Bye
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Convinced me.
I'll go with two layers of osb for my floor. I will lay plastic over the joists first, and screw both layers down. Easier to save more of it when It's time for dissasembly. The floor joists are one foot on center so there won't be much chance of sags.
It only has to last for 3 to 4 years anyway. Good chance to give it a try for looks, and wear.
*May as well use Tyvek for siding and roofing paper for shingles too. As long as a half-finished look is what you're after.
*Never seems to fail. 3-4 years can turn into 12-20 to a life time. Temporary floors get covered with throw rugs. Good luck with your temporary floor.
*Hey now settle downMany years ago people had the same feelings about heart pine, it was used for sub floors and in warehouses, now it is one of the most sought after floorings in our market. I dont think OSB will ever reach this notarity, but to each his own.How many times have you pulled up orange shag carpet to find beautiful hardwood floors???David
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Hi,
Has anyone out there used OSB (Oriented Strand Board) for a finished flooring material. If so, how did it turn out - what would you do differently - how did you fasten the boards to the sub floor?
Egon