Outdoor eve material

adam22 | Posted in Construction Techniques on May 3, 2009 10:15am

I need to replace the underside of the soffit of my house because the chipboard that they used is starting to sag. The soffit will be painted so what material would be best for this situation. Thanks All

Replies

Dam_inspector | May 03, 2009 10:18pm | #1
Probably MDO plywood.
DaveRicheson | May 04, 2009 02:26pm | #2
I'm with Dam Inspector on this one if you are going back withany wood product.

Otherwise I would take down the old sagging chipboard, inspect the venting sceme, make any modification or repairs and go back with a vinyl soffit panel with a gutter board wrap.

Can you post a picture?

It would help to know what type/style home we are making reccomendations about.

rez | May 04, 2009 08:35pm | #8
Dave said it best here.

World of options available.

adam22 | May 04, 2009 08:46pm | #9
Im looking for something that is easy to install myself. I have painters coming in 2 weeks and he said that he will do it for me using regular plywood. Didnt know if this would work or is it only going to last after he has gotten his money and gone.

rez | May 04, 2009 09:04pm | #10
It's as much a decor issue as the question of longevity is what I mean to say.

That's why the comments regarding a photo came into play in order to gauge the whole scope of the building to better supply you with recommended details.

And we don't know what venting situation you have there if indeed there is one. Does the 'chipboard' that is there now include vents?

Ease in installation for a DIYer might include vinyl or aluminum manufactured soffits without the need for paint.

So you had chipboard painted soffits that are now sagging? This hints of a moisture problem which brings up the venting question and a need for presenting more data

in that if there is a house mechanics issue that is needed to be corrected first then it might not make any difference if there is chipboard or plywood involved as anything might fail in the long run.

That is to say that the more pertinent data you present the more detailed answers you can receive.

Cheers

Edited 5/4/2009 2:05 pm ET by rez

adam22 | May 04, 2009 09:10pm | #11
I believe the moisture problem stems from the gutters. I had my house painted 4 yrs ago and the painters put the gutters on and they have been leaking since. Im having new gutters installed after the house is painted so hopefully this will clear up the moisture issue. Thanks for your time to reply all

FatRoman | May 04, 2009 03:17pm | #3
Think an Azek rib will work for this project?

'Man who say it cannot be done should not interrupt man doing it' ~ Chinese proverb

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jimAKAblue | May 04, 2009 03:29pm | #4
I prefer to use 3/8" exterior plywood, either smooth or rough sawn.

adam22 | May 04, 2009 05:30pm | #5
If I use exterior plywood,Do I have to wait for it to dry out in order to paint it? Thanks for all the replies

jimAKAblue | May 05, 2009 04:46am | #12
I don't think it would take long for it to dry out. You'd have to have some very wet product to affect the paint process.

florida | May 04, 2009 07:27pm | #6
I've become a big fan of vented Hardi soffit. It's heavy but goes up easily, looks nice and hopefully will last longer than me.
JDRHI | May 04, 2009 07:32pm | #7
Lot's of options.....however, applications will vary dependent upon the spacing of the framing members.

Find that out, before making a decision.

J. D. Reynolds

Home Improvements
mccarty12 | May 11, 2009 03:22am | #13
I second the vote for Hardi's soffit panels. I've only used them once but they looked good and will hold paint for a long time. They are a bit heavy so it might be difficult to intall them solo.
WayneL5 | May 11, 2009 04:05am | #14
Several good suggestions have been made. I second the vote for MDO plywood. Half-inch, good one side, works well and is reasonably priced. The surface of MDO is as smooth as a baby's behind and takes and holds paint very well. Be sure to prime first. In fact, you could prime and paint all your stock before cutting it up, then you'll only have to spot prime, caulk, and apply a second coat of finish working over your head.

I would caution against regular plywood. The surface will not hold up as well.
Dinosaur | May 11, 2009 04:10am | #15
5/16" x 3½" T&G pine beadboard. This isn't top-quality paneling, but it will be a good step up in quality from what you had and will cost less than it looks like it cost.

Before you buy the stock, check your rafter spacing. If it's 16" OC, you can use the less-expensive packages of random-length boards (they usually include one 8-footer and a bunch of 32s and 16s); if OTOH the rafters are on 24" centers, you'll need to buy packages of full 8-foot lengths.

This paneling is very light and is easy for one man to install alone. All you need is a chop saw and an 18- or 16-ga. trim nailer. And a section of scaffold (or two husky stepladders and a 12' scaffolding plank) to work from.

Pine paints well or it can be stained and oiled if you wanna add a bit of class. Do your painting or staining before you put it up and make sure you cover the tongues.

For the soffit ventilation, use aluminum strip vents; if you don't get the powder-coated type, pre-paint them with enamel using a spray gun (or spray cans) before you install them.

Dinosaur

How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
foolish men call Justice....