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overhang framing question

| Posted in General Discussion on April 25, 2001 06:11am

*
Hello, I just framed my garage with 24′ gambrel attic trusses. The top is a 4/12 and the bottom is a 27/12. The trusses have an 11 inch overhang with a LEVEL cut. What is the best way to finish the overhangs? I’m using all wood facia and soffit(log sided garage). I’d rather not do a square cut if possible(I’d like flat soffit).
The pitch is too steep to do my normal plumb cut and 2×6 sub facia. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. thanks, jeff

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  1. Allyson_Stiles | Apr 20, 2001 02:54am | #1

    *
    Just box out underneath your level cut on the rafters. Use 2x4 or 2x6 material to frame that box. You can the tie it into the rafters with 12" 2x4's placed vertically. All you need to remember to make your layout the same as the rafters so that the 2x's can tie the boxing to the rafters.

    Billy

    1. Boss_Hog | Apr 20, 2001 12:21pm | #2

      *Level cut overhangs ? I wonder why ? That's certainly not normal. Any chance of getting a picture ?How about nailing a 4' length of 2X6 alongside the trusses and plumb cutting them. That way you could form whatever overhang length and/or shape you wanted.

      1. Jeff30 | Apr 21, 2001 01:30am | #3

        *Billy, sorry but I didn't follow at all.Ron, here's a picture. thanks

        1. Allyson_Stiles | Apr 21, 2001 01:47am | #4

          *I didn't need a picture but it makes it better to show you with. I'm posting your picture back with the solution.Billy

          1. Allyson_Stiles | Apr 21, 2001 01:56am | #5

            *The problem with making a plumb cut on that tail is that by the time you make the level cut so that it is only 6", you are taking alot away with that steep of pitch. Boxing out under it is good because you will use the same amount of lumber anyway to box in the soffit. In the back it is attached on the wall, but in the front, you need to add vertical nailers that attach to the soffit blocking and the tail since the tails are cut with level cuts. The drawing isn't the greatest, but I tried to do it before ya got off line.Billy

          2. Mike_Smith | Apr 21, 2001 05:24am | #6

            *boxing out is ok if you have the clearance over thewindows..you could do anything you want .. extend the truss ends.. change the pitch at the bottom...you want to leave enough vertical clearance so you can get your windows in , plus a nice freize detail over them plus a good soffit detail....you also have to consider if this is going to be a vented soffit..and how the soffit will be trimmed..and how the siding will terminate at the soffit...b but hey, whadda i no ?

          3. Boss_Hog | Apr 21, 2001 01:01pm | #7

            *Jeff - I think Allyson Stiles proposed a good solution to your problem. I'm curious about something - What size bottom chord is that ? Looks like a 2X8.

          4. Jeff30 | Apr 23, 2001 02:03pm | #8

            *Billy, thanks a lot. that's what I'll do.Ron, that's a 2x10 Southern Yellow pine and I could barely shoot a 16 through it with my cordless! Thanks for your help.Jeff

          5. Tony_Ferrito | Apr 25, 2001 03:16am | #9

            *Jeff, Seems to me it would look alot eater and save some work if you just go without a facsia. Bring the shingles and drip edge down to cover the edge of soffit material. IMHO this would be a much cleaner' look and I can't recall that I have ever seen a facsia on a gambrel. Also at that steep a pitch you would have to hang the ply down quite a ways to allow the drip edge to lay flat. My 2 cents Mr. T

          6. Ralph_Wicklund | Apr 25, 2001 04:55am | #10

            *See attached diagram. Returns nailed to the side of the rafter. Sheathing extending past end of rafter. Soffit material will end up recessed depending upon amount of sheathing overhang. Also extend shingles beyond end of sheathing, Your choice of edge treatment of sheathing. You can brake some coil stock to wrap that edge for a finished look, use 1 1/2" regular galv. drip or you could even slip some 1/2" vinyl DRYWALL edging or stucco stop over that edge. Or you could prime and paint it (ugh).

          7. Mike_Maines_ | Apr 25, 2001 04:57am | #11

            *Ditto Tony. I just put an addition on a gambrel so we had to match the rest of it. It had a fascia but no dripedge, I used a dripedge but it was just barely hanging on. Should have had extra-wide stuff made up but didn't. At least hang the sheathing over the fascia if you use one.Mike

          8. Ralph_Wicklund | Apr 25, 2001 04:57am | #12

            *Forgot the attachment

          9. Mike_Smith | Apr 25, 2001 06:11am | #13

            *tony & mike....gambrels can have fascia or not..they usually get designed with a fascia..but not always... be hard pressed to figure which method is the dominant one...my guess... FASCIA...

  2. Jeff_B. | Apr 25, 2001 06:11am | #14

    *
    Hello, I just framed my garage with 24' gambrel attic trusses. The top is a 4/12 and the bottom is a 27/12. The trusses have an 11 inch overhang with a LEVEL cut. What is the best way to finish the overhangs? I'm using all wood facia and soffit(log sided garage). I'd rather not do a square cut if possible(I'd like flat soffit).
    The pitch is too steep to do my normal plumb cut and 2x6 sub facia. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. thanks, jeff

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