My home was built in 1920. Most of the double hung windows are in fair shape with the usual broken sash cords and horrible layers of latex from years of previous owner laziness.
The good news, they all have integrated copper and tin weather stripping and are quite easy to “rehab”.
Once the latex is removed, there is an original coat of oil based paint. Any suggestions for a hard, high gloss paint I can use either over primer or the oil paint? I am considering buying a nice HVLP, but am open to brushing as well.
I am hoping this is the last time I touch these for a while.
Thanks!
Replies
Windows. Have fun.They will take you a LONG time.
Advice:
Prep well and go slow. Invest in carbide scrapers and an expensive heat gun. I used BM Satin Impervo for the interiors and BM exterior latex for the exterior.
I bought a "Conversion HVLP" gun to do some interior trim and it sprayed the Satin Impervo very very well. Just Google "Wagner Conversion HVLP" and you'll find the website that sells 'em, about $120 IIRC. You can control the spray well enough that you might be able to avoid a lot of masking.
Have fun.
I'll second the Benjamin Moore Satin Impervo. Really good stuff and, as the name implies, a really nice satiny finish.
As for exterior, I'm old school. Unless it already has latex, I use oil. --------------------------------------------------------
Cheap Tools at MyToolbox.netSee some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com
Thanks - done several already along with rest of room. Thus the Turbinaire is on the list...
Oh, and you are right about the prep... it takes for ever. Although they turned out nice. 2 recent guests to the last room completed thought the windows were new, and that was the room I "learned" on.
(and... the expensive heat gun is great if you repo from the neighbor... :)
Thanks
If the house was built in the 1920's you have a good chance that some of the paint layers will contain lead. If that is the case you may need to get a company to do the work for you. Check you local building codes.
Homeowners can do anything they want with old lead paint. They just need to be carefull and be aware. They don't need to hire any special company.
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In Indiana even if the owner is doing the work some rules still apply.
Along with covering other lead-based paint activities (e.g. inspection), the rule requires the use of lead-safe work practices whenever remodeling, renovation and maintenance activities on rental property built before 1960 is going to disturb a minimum area of lead paint, as defined by the rule.
The requirements do not apply if someone is working on their own home, unless it is a home that they are renting out, or the home is occupied by a child with a confirmed elevated blood lead level. The requirements do not apply to housing that has been determined to be free of lead paint through a qualified lead inspection. If a lead inspection has not been completed, the rule assumes that all paint in a pre-1978 house is leaded.
So if this is a rental or has a child with lead problems, they can still do it but must follow all the abatement rules. Like wise if they exced the minimum areas then they must also follow the abatement rules.
So they can't just do what they want.We are the people our parents warned us about. J. Buffett
true on rentals or commercial, but I said HO , which this is.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I have several salvaged windows with original metal weatherstripping in an outbuilding. They were one of the most difficult rehab projects I've ever undertaken. However, the weatherstripping (which I removed and re-attached) is great.
Take the sash to a stripper and have them stripped to bare wood. Remove glass for re-use. Prime sash with alkyd primer. Reglaze (get a Fletcher point gun if you're serious). Prime 2nd coat over glazing compound. Finish paint with 2 coats latex. Do not use oil finish - you will have mildew because of the linseed oil.
Reinstall with true sash cord and lube pulleys.
Jeff
use a brush, HVLP, or spraying only really helpful in production work, the time to mask everything wouldn't get you there any faster, besides paint brushed on is guaranteed to stick better, and less prone to runs, allot of the exterior (even the interior stuff) these days is too thick to spray well ..
Thanks for the insight - especially the paint recommendation.
Yes, the home does have lead paint, and I have children. All projects are done in sealed rooms with resporator...
Unfortunately time is the enemy, but so is the cost of replacing windows with the character of the originals... thus it looks as though the improvement saga will continue.
I love this board, mostly for reading. I really appreciate the input on this one.
Cheers!
Incidentally, a great deal of experience has shown that rehabbing old double-hungs properly (including re-glazing) using professionals is about the same cost as replacing with Marvin Ultimate double-hungs.
The cost savings is from your labor of course - if you know what you are doing and have the time.
Jeff
Oh yeah, be sure to use brass sash chain instead of rope. No more broken rope problems ever. Increases your cost per window about $4.00.
If you want - I do like traditional sash cord. Phelps sells the chain - http://www.phelpscompany.com/
Jeff
What a cool catalog - thanks for the link.
They have great products - the pulleys are terrific.
Jeff
Aye, but its the professional price tag that trips us do-it-yourselfers every time!
Labor of love or short-cut to the looney bin?
Thanks again
"Labor of love or short-cut to the looney bin?"They let me out today to make these posts ....
Jeff ;o)
Your asylum doesn't have internet access? I'd sue 'em for mental cruelty.