Is a painter liable for repairing cracks in drywall prior to painting?
If the cracks are repaired and then open up and appear in six months or a year, does the homeowner have a valid complaint against the painter?
This is just a rhetorical question.
^^^^^^
a Smith & Wesson beats four Aces
Replies
Unfortunately, I guess I'd say yes. I painted a fascia once and it was a very rough board--I would have had to sand or plane like a quarter inch off of it to make it smooth, so I filled it with exterior spackle that was very rubbery. Lady called me, laughing, a couple months later and told me what had happened--the spackle, with the paint still adhering nicely, had come off the board, so it was a ribbon about 8" by 4 feet, hanging down about 8", attached at each end! She wouldn't believe me when I told her that water was getting into the facia from the roof, so I used Minwax two-part epoxy filler once the wood had dried out and repainted. I think she was nice enough that she paid me for my labor for that. That seems to have held.
When you mentioned painting facia board I wanted to show you the disk sander I used to sand facia board prior to painting.It's a Makita Disk Sander and it's powerful. It uses 5 to 7 inch diameter disks and you can buy the disks at lowes or HD for about a dollar.It's 5.2 amp motor and the arbor is 7/8. I bought it about 10 years ago and use it to sand wood or metal and the first disks I bought were made of metal and when they plug up with paint you just soak them in paint stripper and you can reuse them.Here are some pictures of the sander:
^^^^^^
a Smith & Wesson beats four Aces
My dad has something similar for removing paint--even has an attachment that fits it to clapboards so it slides along and uses the clapboard edges as a guide and the depth of cut is adjutable, but I think that would still have taken a long time and a lot of effort.
"Is a painter liable for repairing cracks in drywall prior to painting?"
That depends on whether they are suppose to paint or make repairs and paint.
As far as the crack re-opening it depends on how he patched it and why it re-opened.
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Thanks for the info guys.
^^^^^^
a Smith & Wesson beats four Aces
yepeverything that happens on a jobsite is the painters vault and he is on the hook to repair Just ask any other trade if you don't believe
Barry E-Remodeler
I THOUGHT THE PLUMBER CAUSED THESE PROBLEMS!!!
The plumber caused the problems by cutting the support that cases the crack. But the painter is the one that gets blamed..
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
I hope you realize my post is a semi-sarcastic comment about blaming anyone near by that has nothing to do with the prob.?
Only till the painter starts onsite
Barry E-Remodeler
I just wonder how often this occurs (i.e. the walls or ceiling cracks and the homeowner calls the painter a year later madder than hops about a crack in his $3,000 paint job).If the drywall is cracked there are ? three ways to fix it:1. spackling and putty knife2. mud and tape3. cut out the section of drywall and replace it.I'm guessing most painters choose number one and use the fast drying spackling so they can get out and move on to the next job.I'm guessing very few painters do number three on the list.^^^^^^
a Smith & Wesson beats four Aces
First of in think that you will find that 1 year is the limit, if not less, for most warantees of work of this kind.And a lot depends on the size of the crack, why it cracked in the first place, and why it cracked the 2nd time.But if it was tape and mud and the tape torn, not the mud letting lose, I would would not see any liability of this for a repair and painting job. That is only surface work unless there is major damage which would otherwise require cutting and replacing.You don't have any controll of whatever is behind the DW or how it is moving..
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
If the painter does not have the prep for the walls in his contract, the answer is NO,NO,NO!
I hater rhetorical questions on specific issues like this because there are so many variables, but in general, I would say no, unless his proposal expressly stated that he eliminate the crack. Many painters do no t do SR repair and most cracks in SR finish are either a problem with the original SR finishing or with structural issues with the house. There are certain types of SR cracks that a painter would be foolish to warrantee, because they are almost certainly due to errors in the framing or foundation
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
I have that tool from Makita more or less.I have never seen it labeled a sander though. I'm interested in what the RPM is on yours.Mine is labeled a polisher and I think it runs about 1750RPM. I have seen it labeled a grinder with a speed of 3500RPM. I can put a bonnet on mine for waxing floors, or cleaning up grout haze. It does a killer job of rough sanding with a 30 grit disc, even at my slower speed. I used to use it as a grinder too, before I got a couple of grinders.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Here it is with a wire cup cleaning antique tiles for re-use. I have also used it with the wire cup or a wheel for cleaning wood gutters to re-seal, or to prep metal roof flashing for paint or metal roofs for coatings.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
The RPM is 4,000 and I've used it many times for sanding and grinding wood and metal.I've used it to create a "relief" for a mitre joints, I use it rather than hand scraping exterior paint prior to painting.I've used it to clean up and sharpen lawn mower blades even used it to sand an oak floor. It worked really well on brown spots where dogs had urinated.I've used it to "rough up" new exterior trim boards so they will hold paint better. I've used it to level out cabinet face frames (rail meets style and it's uneven)I've used it on subflooring prior to laying tile. It will level high spots easily and if a nail or screw is sticking above the surface it will knock it down instantlyOne of the things I really like about it is it works great to clean up putty knives and trowels. If the trowells have dry concrete, mud, paint, rust, glue, you name it, you hit it for a few seconds and the blade is shiny clean.You have to be careful with it because it cuts into wood and metal so quickly.^^^^^^
a Smith & Wesson beats four Aces