I have a home with 35 year old aluminum siding.
I’m looking to paint it this summer and would like some tips from the PROS. Any help would be great. I’m located in Pittsburgh Pa.
Thanks
~Mike~
I have a home with 35 year old aluminum siding.
I’m looking to paint it this summer and would like some tips from the PROS. Any help would be great. I’m located in Pittsburgh Pa.
Thanks
~Mike~
With the right approach, you can restore old hardware—whether through soaking, scrubbing, or polishing—giving it a fresh look while preserving its original charm.
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Replies
Sherwin Williams has a paint specifically recommened for aluminum siding with a built in primer.
I would recommend a light powerwash with a detergent and rinse then after dry run an orbital sander on it lightly just to give some tooth for the paint.
Go two coats. The orbital sander isn't absolutely necessary but it's your house.
I never had a problem with character,
people've been telling me I was one ever since I was a kid.
Edited 3/29/2007 10:29 pm ET by rez
Have used a product here in Canada from General Paint, called "latex siding renew". Only basic prep required, i.e. pressure wash. No doubt your paint suppliers have something similar. Father in law painted his camper trailer and was v. satisfied.
I take it this is the original factory finish that has never been repainted?
I never had a problem with character,
people've been telling me I was one ever since I was a kid.
We have a lot of trailer parks and manufactured homes in this area. Many of these places have metal skins - usually aluminum. One park in particular was looking particularly nice. It turned out one of the retired residents had a little part-time business going ... and his 'secret' was using automotive type paint. It made sense to me; paint made for metal, applied to metal.Over the years, it has held up well. A visit to a paint shop that catered to the automotive trade was instructive. They can, naturally, match colors. They can also provide any level of 'gloss' that you like. There are several different types of automotive paints, some which will cure in ordinary daylight. None of them are cheap .... at least on a 'cost per gallon' basis ... but the results speak for themselves. Now, one person I spoke to - a person of no particular authority - claimed that there were environmental laws that made this illegal. It may have just been the "it's new to me so it must be bad" principle at work. If you do try using auto paint, I would plan on one gallon as a 'practice' gallon. You may not be able to use the same spray gun that you see at Home Depot. The paint will spray / handle somewhat differently. You will have to pay extra attention to masking - and protecting the paint from dust for the first day or two.
Yes it is ...a nice chalky gray.
Last one I did I used TSP and scrubbed it a bit before the pressure wash. Put your attention to the prep and then apply the paint by brush.
The orbital sander might sound like overkill but being we are talking about a light runover it goes fast.
What was said earlier and Sherwin Williams is the ticket.
be and you wont have to repaint that sucker for a looooong time.
I never had a problem with character, people've been telling me I was one ever since I was a kid.
One thing you don't want to do is sand down to bare metal. If there is bare metal then it needs a special primer.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
One recomendation, smooth siding or wood grain. Learn to spray with an airless sprayer (rent a Graco or something professional)or hire someone who can, the finish will make the house look brand new.
Chuck
Hi everyone!!!
I from Russia. Tell me please, used aluminum-plastic composite panel and ceramic tile in US?
I have a big experience in development ventilated facades (double skin of facade or curtain walls).
I create 3D models in AutoCAD, counting materials, and installing on facade.
Please see some my work in the Attached files.
I am going to relocate in US or Canada with my family for ever.
Desired target job title - AutoCAD Drafter; Architectural Designer; 3D Construction modeler; Assistant architect; Foreman Curtain Walls.
Presently I participate in Green Card Lottery. Tell me please, can I find the employer, which can to give me a job offer?
With best wishes,
Dennis
This gentleman's good.
Look at the size of those pics and the low KBs.yer gonna have to type slow for me and maybe switch to a crayon.-buck '07
I never had a problem with character, people've been telling me I was one ever since I was a kid.
Hi rez!
I agree with you, quality growed worse.
I have compressed these photo.
I can send these photo in noncompressed format
Dennis,
Don't know what your odds are of finding what you're looking for here, but you should post this in the "Help/Jobs Wanted" section of this site. Good luck...
PaulB
Edited 4/1/2007 9:22 am ET by PaulBinCT
Aluminum siding should take paint well. It does need to be well cleaned. The siding needs not only the dirt but also the chalky paint removed. If power washing leaves a finish that won't wipe off chalky residue, it is sufficient. It may need a good scrubbing to remove the chalky layer to leave a solid surface for paint to adhere to.
Most any exterior latex paint should work. A low sheen but not flat paint generally looks best. You generally get what you pay for. If you want it to looks its best and last a long time, invest in a good time. Generally paint manufactures recommend paints with an appropriate finish for use on aluminum siding.
When I had a house painting company we painted aluminum siding a few times. You need to remove the chalky paint reisue before painting. My method was to hand scrub all the siding with a water/TSP solution. I'm not sure a pressure washer would be sufficient and you may have issues with water being forced behind the siding. IIRC there is a special purpose primer made for aluminum.
Good Luck.
Thanks for all the info, guys
We paint a lot of siding. A Good power wash with a detergent, then a good acylic with Emusabond ( a Flood Co product) . We almost always spray these jobs
I'm not familiar with Emulsa-Bond so I went to their website to read up on it: http://www.flood.com/flood/CustomerSupport/FAQ/DIY/EmulsaBond+FAQ.htm
Basically, it sounds like an oil fortifier. Do you paint 2 coats and leave it out of the topcoat as they recommend or are they just being overly conservative?
We usually do 2 coats, No EB in 2nd. Once you are masked to spray 2 coat is easy. I have done a metal storage building with 1 coat it did have a few shiny spots that died down after a while and you can get some surfactant bleeding ( it does wash off) but you are best off to follow thier instuctions