I need to paint some towel rails as I can not find Bisk or pale almond anywhere!
I have chrome finish. Any tips on painting chrome? These are going in a bathroom so it has to last for a while!
I need to paint some towel rails as I can not find Bisk or pale almond anywhere!
I have chrome finish. Any tips on painting chrome? These are going in a bathroom so it has to last for a while!
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Replies
I'm just guessing here, but any primer good for metal might be a good start. The challenge with chrome might be that it is so shiny that limits the "bite" of the primer onto the surface, and it is so hard that it's difficult to rough up. I think a two part epoxy primer might be good, but very expensive.
An alternative is to cover the bar with colored heat-shrink tubing, the kind electricians use.
You'll have to scuff up the chrome with sandpaper, steel wool or something so it will have a texture for the paint to hold on to. I'd use an epoxy if you can find the right color, or go to the auto parts store and get some Duplicolor auto paint in a spray can.
Another possibility that would be more durable but will cost more is powder coating. A decent powder coating shop should be able to match just about any color you want, and it's just about indestructible.
Get it sandblasted first. Use a fine grit. Not enough to strip strip the chorme off, just enough to give the paint something to grab on to.
Nigel---
I was an apprentice chrome plater for over 5 years
( hard chrome plating on plastic injection molds, machined parts , tool and die parts etc.)
chrome plating on it's own is extremely hard( it's whole reason in an industrial setting)---but rather porous---and easily allows the steel substrate to rust
Your "chrome"---towel bars are most likely nickel plated to prevent rust.
I doubt VERY much that it would be cost effective to try to find shops interested in powder coating a couple of towel bars---or anybody interested in sandblasting---or even better glass beading towel bars.
If the towel bars were actually chrome plated---with no nickel---you could remove the chrome by soaking the bars in muriatic acid( inhibited hydrochloric acid)---masonry cleaner----but as soon as the chrome is removed the acid will begin to pit the cheap steel bars----and the towel bars would be extremely prone to rust right through the paint---but that is beside the point as the towel bars are almost certainly nickel plated to prevent that rust in the first place
If it was me------I would just tone down the nickel sheen with emery paper or some red scotch bright----might even use a fine rotary wire brush---and then prime with a couple of coats of really good metal primer---then paint away.
good luck,
Stephen
"Idoubt VERY much that it would be cost effective to try to find shops interested in powder coating a couple of towel bars---or anybody interested in sandblasting---or even better glass beading towel bars."It would be if you could find the right kind of shop.A friend of mine used to run such a shop. All he did was portotypes, one off's, some production runs and the like.
Re: the muriatic acid- I accidently got some CLR on a bathroom faucet and it discolored the chrome and made it a lot less slick. Once the acid is on there for a few seconds, it can be rinsed off and dried. I do agree though, the red ScotchBrite would be a better way to go since it's not actually chemically removing the chrome down to the base metal and exposing it.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
I guess it depends on how much you want to invest in them. I've talked to local powder coaters that will take on small projects, but I bet it wouldn't be less than $100-150 by the time you blast them. Failing that, I'd look to automotive urethanes for durability...also not cheap because of the smallest quantity that they sell vs what you need (reducers, activators and all). Maybe get a body shop to do it although to scuff, primer, paint you're probably no less $. Small shop would be best bet.
DIY?
http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=92&itemType=CONTENTPJ
Whatever you can do or dream you can, Begin it Boldness has genius, power, and magic in it. Goethe
If you decide to take it someplace to have it painted, try a shop that does boat repair/painting. Bisque(sp?) and pale almond aren't uncommon in boat color schemes and a lot of places that repair fiberglass and paint on boats have left over polyurethane/epoxy paint.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Bill,
we were a small shop---3 or 4 workers
but we worked on mostly molds for the auto industry---10-12 tons and $500,000 and up ( this was 20 some years ago)
periodically somebody was always coming by wanting the mirror from his '57 chevy re-plated or some stupid part off his motorcycle re-worked------we couldn't laugh them out of the shop fast enough.
Trot those towel bars around to professional metal finishers---and I suspect ya are gonna be treated the same way----------
BTW----you folks must take your towel bars SERIOUSLY---to put this kind of effort into it----we are talking TOWEL bars aren't we???????
Stephen
"Trot those towel bars around to professional metal finishers---and I suspect ya are gonna be treated the same way----------"Again it depends on what there market is.I am waiting right now for a custom sized cultured marble vanity top. Cost $245.Standard sized from the borge run $150-200. If I went to their supplier I am sure that they would be willing to do them if I order a 1000 and paid a large setup charge.But the shop that I am using only does custom and the difference in cost is small.
>> Trot those towel bars around to professional metal finishers ...There are shops that make their money doing those mirrors and motorcycle parts. What makes you think they are any less professional than the place you worked?I used to take very small quantities of aluminum parts to a plating shop for anodizing, and they were glad to see me. I don't think there's any plating shop more professional than Ball Aerospace, the same outfit that builds satellites.Maybe industrial or large scale is a better term than professional to make the distinction you're trying to make.
you know------ I think Uncle Dunc and Bill are maybe reading something into my post that wasn't really there------------
but I want to thank them anyway---cause this thread got me thinking---------
I had to go to a funeral yesterday of a guy I didn't really know----so I kind of zoned out and remembered my time as a chrome plater---------
It was back in the early and mid-80's----eventually I lect plating for roofing----because roofing has LESS heavy lifting than plating---and roofing isn't as hot and dirty either---LOL
But now that I have some distance from the chrome shop( about 20 years)----I can appreciate that it posed some interesting challenges.
we would take a plastic injection mold---both halfs---male = core, female = cavity. we would have to design and fabricate an anode for each half of the mold that would EXACTLY conform to the contours of fiendishly complex shapes. the anodes were made out of lead and some took months to build.
We had to take into account the way electricity would flow through the shape of the mold---and the way the ions would flow through the acid in order to keep the chrome deposit around .003---.004". a sharp edge would build up deposit quickly---a deep recess---a rib---would be incredibly difficult to throw chrome into
We would often try to tuck a piece of paper thin lead far down into a 1/8" wide rib----that sheet lead was attached to a lead wire---every thing about the anode was lead--------which could sag under it's own weight at room temperture----let alone when it heated up to 138 degrees in the chrome solution.
the anode would have to be securely clamped to the mold and keep a 1/4 inch spacing---but could NEVER touch the mold---the anode would recieve a positive charge----the mold became the cathode with a corresponding negative charge----5000 amps, 7000 amps, 12000 amps of DC current.
this whole contraption would be lowered into a tank of chromic acid----thousands of gallons of acid would be sloshing back and forth trying to move those delicate sheet lead throwers we had spent months fabricating and days setting up on the mold.
If the anode and the cathode ever came into contact with each other----well ya have a 7000 amp short circuit on your hands----sparks fly EVERYWHERE----by the way---chrome acid gives of huge clouds of hydrogen gas when electricity passes through it-----1 spark===boom--------, plus the site of the short circuit contact would have a big hole burned into a $500,000 block of steel
the inside of the shop---every imaginable surface---was covered with a layer of dust---lead oxide. the walls ,the floors, the ceilings were covered with spatters of chromic acid, muriatic acid, sulfuric acid, causic soda----we used to buy acetone by the 5 gallon can and naptha by the 55 gallon drum.
with a new mold---things were a LITTLE more laid back----but a mold that had been damaged and was in for repair----well ya were under a significant gun because the mold had been pulled unexpectedly out of production----and if ya didn't get it quickly back into production---well folks at the injection molding plants---and eventually on the assembly lines could get laid off------
we were usually doing at least 3 things at once----building a new anode, setting up the next job to be plated, and plating the current job ( plus getting lead poisoning and slowly contracting cancer LOL)
But lucky us---cause every once in a while the door bell would ring----and there at the door would be the chrome plating equivalent of a guy---whose major concern was wether his towel bars were almond--or if they were bisque. LOL
Now---in all fairness Uncle Dunc---I am not trying to pick on anybody----but I used the word professional for a reason-----we would have severely resented a moment of our time being taken up by a guy with towel bars
and the shops we knew that would have been interested in towel bars---would ONLY have been interested if you had 10,000 towel bars-----
Bill mentioned something about a $250 cultured marble vanity top----fair enough.
but it probably cost us more than $250 to heat up our tanks of acid to 138 degrees working temp------ and that was 20 years ago.
I think the closest I can come to describing this would be to say---it would be like asking Stan Foster to build a picnic table for ya
cause there are no bigger time wasters---than a hobbiest with a mirror off of a 57 chevy trying to pick the brain of guys earning a living under the gun.
THAT is why I suggested the scotch bright----i
f the original poster lives in a BIG enough place---their might be somebody interested in this type of a project. If they advertise as such in the yellow pages---by all means go look into it.
but I question the cost effectiveness of the project---before you waste hours of your time driving from one shop to another---and valuable minutes distracting guys with real concerns---------you could have those towel bars deglossed and finished painting at home.
Best wishes all,
Stephen
BTW---sorry for the long post---but I forgot to mention a couple of things Uncle Dunc------ 1)anodizing and plating are 2 very different things----anodizing would require virtually zero time fabricating custom tooling compared to our plating---its more like the reverse of plating----and in most respects a MUCH simpler process.
2) we would frequently do some very small things for established customers---at our convenience and at odd moments----but those were for established customers----not one-off walk in traffic. I suspect you were an established account with your anodizer.
It would have been cost effective for us to try to keep a customer happy that sent us over $100,000-$200,000 in business a year
It wouldn't make any sense to try to accomodate a one-off walk in customer who was costing us money just to talk to---and who would probably have caused us to lose close to $1000 if we accepted the project.
Edited 2/11/2005 8:17 am ET by Stephen_Haz
Edited 2/11/2005 8:22 am ET by Stephen_Haz
BTW, all of this reminds me there are powder coating kits available.http://www.caswellplating.com/powder/powder_coat.htmThis is just one of them.Limited to what size you can get into an oven.
Bill,
1st things first--------
I think Nikkiwood has gone into some detail and given pretty much the procedure that makes sense. It's about what I suggested ,but glossed over before getting side tracked with my chrome plating tutorial.LOL-----simple and cost effective.
Now---that's out of the way-------- the portable powder coating rig sounds interesting-----
but I don't think its really cost effective for THIS situation----especially figuring in the trial and error learning method for a couple of towel bars.
If somebody was gonna do this again periodically----then it might be an interesting idea.
Personally----I don't think I would go that route because it looks a LOT like the portable blaster kit we had at the chrome shop. we were NEVER able to produce what we felt was a professional texture with the portable gun.
so EVERY time we tried it----we still ended up trucking the mold over to the best sandblast and metalizing operation in the area----and then we would have to kiss butt to get them to glass bead our mold----'cause the company preferred to have their workers out blasting bridges etc.
If it's not one thing---it's another,
Stephen
I haven't seen the Caswell kit, but the Eastwood Company also makes a powder coating setup for home use and it works pretty well. I've seen parts done with it and they were of very good quality, with a nice smooth finish (the quality of the finished product depends a lot on the technique of the person applying it, of course.) Since it's about $100 for the basic kit, though, it's probably not cost effective for just doing a couple towel bars.
http://www.eastwoodcompany.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=412&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=459&iSubCat=460&iProductID=412
If you want to do them yourself, as others have suggested, I would sand them first with 80-120 grit, then I would rub them down with Scotch Brite (to remove the scratches).
Then I would wipe them down with Easy Surface Prep (mfg. by Flood, and available from most paint stores). This stuff promotes paint adhesion on problem surfaces.
Next I would give them a brush on coat of metal paint; my favorite is an alkyd from Ben Moore in their Ironclad line.
I would then coat them with a can of spray paint -- if you can find a color that's suitable.
Otherwise, Ironclad can be tinted, and you can apply one or two additional coats. It will look good if you rub down after each coat with Scotch Brite and apply the paint carefully with a good China bristle brush.