I’m replacing old gutters with new: either vinyl or aluminum (Lowes)
Theyre white and I want to paint them dark grey to match my fascia.
Any suggestions as to which is better:vinyl or alum. Preparation? Paint type? (spray cans.) Hanger suggestions (Im leaning toward the snap-lok fascia brackets if aluminum but if vinyl, do they have their own style brackets? Good Day.
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Why not just get the gutters in a color that you want and skip the painting?
Thanks. Who sells colored gutters in 10 foot sections?
That I don't know, You might be able to have a seamless gutter company cut you the sections you need?
Thanks CAG, Ill check that out.
My gutter company installs seamless for a pretty reasonable price with a choice of about 8 colors. I'm thinking the last house was $425.
When you add in your labor for install and painting, it would probably add up...
Maybe they charge HOs more... No repeat business and smaller 'hit rate' on the 'free estimates.'
Edited 7/26/2005 10:07 pm ET by Matt
Thanks Matt, Im still waiting for estimate to arrive before I go on.
Most of the aluminum gutter guys around here will do a cut and drop. They are less expensive than buying the materials and you can get any length you want. They like the business because they just have to run the machine and not do any climbing. When the aluminum gets looking dirty, just wash them with Fantastic or 409 and they'll look like new. I like what we call universal hangers. You just snap a line on the fascia and attach the hangers. Place the gutter on the front of the hanger and swing the back up into the clip. They don't show from the ground. I wouldn't give you two cents for vinyl gutters.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Thanks Hammer, Ill see if the 2 companies around here will do that. (cut and drop). A big NO on the vinyl. Those universal hangers you mentioned,are they also known as 'hidden hangers' or are you referring to a particular brand?
The hangers I use are made by Alcoa. We call then "universal" but that may just be a local term. I like aluminum or stainless round head screws for mounting. I use them at 24" OC minimum.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Thanks very much for that picture. After you swing the gutter up behind the hanger is there another screw hole that attaches the back of the gutter to the fascia and the hanger? The old gutter I just took down had been screwed at intervals through the metal to the fascia between the spikes and ferrules. Do these hangers @ 24" make additional screws unnecessary?
The back of the gutter has a lip that engages the hook in the hanger. This allows the aluminum gutter to expand and contract with seasonal changes. Once in a while, you miss getting the back to slip in properly. You don't want to screw the hangers in too tight, it can be easier to leave them a bit loose until the gutter snaps in and use a long drive bit to snug them up after. I don't get my materials from places like HD, I'm in the business so I deal with wholesalers. The cut and drop guys can make a recommendation or supply the hangers. I would stay away from the spike and ferule style hangers.When you have the gutters made up, you may want to ask them to punch the downspout nipples for you. I use aluminum pop rivets for some connections, like the nipples and short aluminum pan heads for elbows and downspouts.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Thanks again for the help.