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The wife feels the need to paint a nicely paneled room. Is there any prep work needed on the paneling before a primer coat?
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Bruce,
I normally "hang out" over at
i Knots
but your post caught my eye.
My first question would be just what kind of paneling is this?
With the exception of raised paneled wainscoting, I've yet to see painted wood paneling that looks any good. FWIW.
Dano
*Dano,You're not a wife. Bruce's wife wants this done, so it must mean she desparately hates the stuff as it is and want something light and airy looking. I'm just guessing, here. I know what you mean, Dano, about the difference between the effect of painted raised panelling and painted wood panelling 70's style. Totally different deal.In the house I grew up in, the kitchen panelling, the 70s style stuff, my Dad had it done with a pinkish pickled overwash, so it wasn't pretending to be anything other than what it was, but at the same time it was light and pretty and feminine for my Mom's taste. And I think that pickled look is more popular now. No one else had it when we were kids.What room is it in, Bruce. And what effect does your wife want to achieve? Do you have a cottagey style house, or a more formal and contemporary on where painted panelling is just going to look like something trying to imitate something which is trying to imitate something else?
*Theodora,Thank you for pointing that out. I understood the question perfectly that is why I suggested more information so that a qualified answer could be provided.As to my last comment, in over a quarter of a century as a professional with 40 years of experience, it's true.Any who, I was only trying to help.Dano
*Dano,Yes, I think you did help. I believe you, that painted panelling never looks good, and probably isn't worth the effort it would take to make the paint adhere. And that classic, real, raised panelling can be beautiful painted. I just had a picture of a determined wife.......and what they can set in motion, being one myself! I think we're on the same page here. Trying to incorporate ALL the technical, aesthetic, and psychological issues!I got sick of the ugly fake-o brick veneer wall in my kitchen last year. The rows of fake bricks weren't even level. I scrubbed the stuff clean, primed it heavily because it sucked the stuff up, and laboriously painted three coats of white over it, with a brush, 'cause a roller wouldn't get into fake rubbery mortar stuff. It's definitly an improvement and soothes my soul, but probably still looks like fake brick in un-level rows. It'll do until we just replace the whole wall. Determined wife stuff.More details, Bruce?Thanks, Dano
*Bruce, if it's that okay-looking-yet-fake wood paneling, I can help you. We're talking a smooth surface except for the grooves, right? I lightly sanded it, and I do mean lightly sanded. Then calked the seams were the panels were nailed together (they don't show right now, but after it's painted they do), then 2 coats of primer and, for me, because it was such dark panelling, 2 coats of a good quality latex paint. Mine is in the two hallways and frankly, it made a HUGE difference. My husband was scepticle of the whole process, but even he admits my painted paneling looks a whole lot better. That dark brown fake paneling just looked tacky.
*I think there's a deglosser that you can get at a paint store, maybe even Home Cheapo.
*Another alternative is to hang wall liner, a heavy plain wallpaper that, in effect, gives you a nice smooth new wall surface to paint or paper.Rich Beckman
*I have seen panelling that has been painted. Looked better than the dark stuff that was there. In fact it looked pretty good.. I agree that the seams will show and a grout or calk would be adviseable. A good washing with a non-butyl cleaner would be in order. ( I hate doing pickeling) My last advise is: If it pleases the wife it will tickle the hell out of me!
*Theodora,I apologize for sounding brusque. I've found that trying to read into posts can get me into trouble. Not nearly enough information has been provided to make a "professional" recommendation, IMO. We don't even know the type of paneling other than "it's a nicely paneled room." As one who used to do this for a living, if a person called me on the phone asking the same question, I can think of at least a dozen or so questions that I would ask first before answering.Any who, no need to thank me, as I've not contributed anything other than an opinion. FWIW.Dano
*Dano's comment notwithstanding, I too have seen old '70s style paneling that looked MUCH better after being painted. I know, 'cause I'm the one who painted it, a big basement room that actually became a great place to hang out in after the paint made it bright, light, etc.Not that Dano is wrong, exactly, because I think there are certain kinds of paneling that simply do not look right when painted.As for doing the task, the comments above were correct. You need to caulk the joints between the 4x8 sheets, for they really show up afterward. AND, you need to prime it but good. Light sanding, perhaps a deglosser (only the ones I've ever used always stank to high heaven). Were I doing it again, I would look to B-I-N shellac-based primer, or similar, for the first coat. Just because of the adhesion problems.The paneling I had was true '70s stuff. It was walut, and actually had a real layer of wood. A veneer, heavily finished. More recent stuff is nothing but paper and plastic, of course ... and it may, as Dano said, look awful after painting.Assuming the best, I'd just think of it as a weird kind of drywall with funny vertical lines. When I painted my stuff, it came out looking more like wood than ever before ... just painted wood.Good luck on it.-- Roger
*Thanks for the input to this point. This is real wood paneling so there is no plastic finish over compressed who knows what. The room is to be used as a family room, dining room. The room is 11' wide and 25'long actually an enclosed patio cover. The paneling covers three walls with the fourth wall a rough sawn 3/4"x 6 cedar. that wall will be left alone. Whoever put the paneling up did a good job and personally I like it but the wife hates it. in the middle of this message I just thought that maybe putting 1/4" sheet rock over it would be a better idea if she would buy into it.
*Bruce,Kinda suspected as much.i If the paneling is nailed without adhesive and there is sheet rock behind it (I have run across jobs where there wasn't) I would suggest taking it down, spackle and sand the nail holes, then prime and paint. There could be a chance the sheet rock has only the first coat mud on it or none at all and that would need to be dealt with. So would the absence of sheet rock. In this is the case even if the panels are glued and nail to the studs I would still take down the paneling. Then sheet rock the walls.Putting up 1/4" sheet rock over the paneling is a better alternative to painting it, IMHO. However, ceiling and corner joints then become a challenge. The inside corners can be hidden by corner mouldings where the walls join the paneled wall you are leaving. Crown moulding would hide the ceiling/wall joints. Any outside corners could be hidden with appropriate trim or moulding.Being that this is an area of the home that sees a considerable amount of use, casual and formal perhaps, I couldn't in good conscience recommend painting over it. While some of the above suggestions i could work and at the risk of offending, the end result would be more than likely be disappointing. It is pretty amazing how a wall shows inconsistancies in different lighting conditions. If dry walling and painting were really that easy, there would not be such a need for the professionals.Even considering the worst case scenario; i.e. glued and nailed to sheet rock, the effort to remove it, re-plaster the gouges, prime, and paint, will be worth it in the long run. That was always my approach to these types of remodels.If, on the other hand, this is a smooth, finished, T&G type of solid wood paneling where the edge joints are flush, then you would need to lightly sand the finish, apply a B-I-N type of primer, spackle the joints, apply regular primer and then your two top coats. Though I will admit that I would be reluctant to do this. But, I haven't seen the room and it's not my home.b ;) FWIW.Dano
*That deglosser is toxic (the can recommends using gloves, long sleeves and a mask), which is why I didn't use it. I have a small baby in the house I keep near at all times, so using something like that wasn't an option for me.
*Rich Beckman kind of slid his comment in, it didn't attract much attention.Wall liner is a great way to treat this problem. A lot of people don't know it exists (you probably cannot buy it at the home center), but this sort of thing is exactly what it is for, covering walls for paint or paper that don't have a suitable surface.Taking the entire finish surface off, as Dano is recommending, is probably the "best" way to do this, but an incredible amount of work. A wall papered with wall liner and painted will be nearly the same finish (fact is, liner would be better if I were doing the drywall finishing), and it is easy. Good tip, Rich.Dave
*Dave, See? Been outa' it so long didn't know about the stuff and have never used it. That's why I tend to to stay over ini Knotsb :)Rich, meant no offense.Dano
*I'm into Historical Preservation. If this home is old or you want to preserve the paneling, then apply varnish first. It will make it easier for some guy 10 years from now that has an appreciation of solid wood trim to strip and stain.
*I do this all the time.Heavy backer paper (Like Rich suggested) is a great method. We use it sometimes.If ya want to paint and make it look good, that is pretty easy too.First, clean the walls very well with a TSP substitute. It will say TSP Substitute on the bottle. It does not need rinsing, does not stink, is not a harmful chemical, and is easy to use. You can get it at any home center. Cleaning is important because there will be cleaners, waxes, etc... on the surface that need to be removed. Once cleaned, prime the surface with a good quality oil based primer/sealer/bond coat. Use one made for use on glossy surfaces, and you will not need to degloss the surface. Zinsser makes a great one called H2Oil base. It will chemically bond itself to the finish on the paneling. Apply TWO coats of primer. Once primed, caulk the seams where two sheets of paneling meet. It is easier to see where you need to caulk AFTER you prime.Now apply the top coat of your choice. Acrylic enamel is the best choice, IMHO. Apply two coats and you'll have a nice looking wall. James DuHamel
*I agree totally with James D. (my nominee for Breaktimer of the Year for his good nature) Itcertainly isn't Fine Homebuilding, and maybe a little like lipstick on a pig, but we all know that paint wil freshen up a room quicker and less expensive than anything.I'm in a 70's tract house that's been much upgraded over the years, but the family room was inexpensive, dark, grooved paneling. I cleaned it good and primed it with Porter Paints Acrylic Primer and painted it with oil. It changed the room dramatically. You do the best you can with what you've got to work with. Greg.
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The wife feels the need to paint a nicely paneled room. Is there any prep work needed on the paneling before a primer coat?